Customizing 110

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Jan 29, 2006
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I have a buck 110 that I want to use as my edc knife. I'm on the boat a lot in the summer time, and feel more comfortable with a lanyard on my knives. Any suggestions on how to affix a lanyard? (I have a drill, but no drill press)
 
I posted a pic of a disassembled 110 here somewhere; there's not much room in the spacer for a hole without seriously weakening it...People have done it, though... ;)

My inclination of a lanyard would be to attach a stud like Buck did with the 186; replace one of the rear bolster rivets with a stud with a hole for a ring in it...
 
Thanks for the reply, Darryl. How about holes only in the brass and attaching a bail to it, would that also weaken the spacer?
 
...I think chickentrax may have a much better handle on the amount of room there actually is in there Jude...He'll pop in shortly I'm sure.
 
jude_061 said:
How about holes only in the brass and attaching a bail to it, would that also weaken the spacer?

(Thanks a lot, Darryl!) :rolleyes:

Sounds interesting...If you were to catch the bail or lanyard on something, would the [threaded?] brass holes hold??? :confused: (Or would you want them to hold? Might be worse to *not* be able to disengage the knife)...

If you're using a new 110, you might be able to drill completely through both bolsters and spacer, where that bulge is at the bottom of the spacer...then thread a lanyard or even a ring through...

I've never tried it...but looking at the new style spacer [the older ones don't have that bulge], there's enough room for another 1/8" hole right in the middle of that bulge... :thumbup:

Let me hasten to add...I am no expert...Just my $.02... ;)
 
Jude,
If you want a good Buck knife to carry on the boat that has a lanyard hole and is comparable to the capabilities of a 110, why not carry a 277 Alpha Hunter? I have one, it has a lanyard hole ready for you and it really is a great knife. When I first came back to Buck I commented that it was like a modern version of the 110. Check it out. As a bonus, the leather sheath can be worn for vertical or horizontal carry. :thumbup:
2004Buck277AlphaHunter.jpg
 
Absolutely look at the 277/9 Alpha line for the reasons stated by Mike.

They are beautiful, solid, and a lifetime tool.

Also consider its' one hand smooth opening you might need in a Popeye situation...
 
Thanks guys for all your input. I will look into the Alpha hunter. Since I'm poor though, right now I'm still going to play around with the 110. I absolutely love the knife. It's a little more mundane than anything tactical looking, and will always be around. Chickentrax (thanks for your earlier advice -- I missed it, kinda new), The lanyard bail would be removable -- I'm thinking a piece of brass rod bent to shape with pliers. I tinkered a bit with it, and the brass seems strong enough to not bend with normal use. If i am fouled on something, my body weight would certainly pry the bail free. If i can bore pilot holes, 1/16 in diameter by maybe 1/8 inch deep, do you think that would compromise the spacer? the knife is a newer model, and it has the bulge you were talking about. I made my own sheath for it, lower profile than the factory leather sheath and wet molded to the knife, I suppose I can make one for horizontal carry if I were so inclined. Nothing too fancy--kinda ragged actually, but it serves the purpose. Again, thanks for any advice
Jude
 
jude_061 said:
...If i can bore pilot holes, 1/16 in diameter by maybe 1/8 inch deep, do you think that would compromise the spacer?...

It shouldn't. I also think if you made up a template from that pic Darryl posted (Thanks again, Darryl!!! :p ) you could drill straight through the middle of that bulge, side to side. As far as I can tell, it's not hardened. I haven't tried it, but there's no reason it should be.
 
Thanks for all your help guys! I'll let you know how it turns out when I try it. If I can get a pic i'll post it. Again, Thanks.
J
 
Chickentrax, you were right -- the spacer is not hardened. I used a cordless drill and regular bit on my bedroom floor (my primitive workshop) and a 3/32 " bit to start. then I went up to 7/64" to widen the hole. I snapped a 1/8" bit trying to widen it some more and sent the knife flying. I think I'll leave it at 7/64ths. I can either reeve a piece or seine twine and then knot a lanyard, or make a bail out of 1/16" brass rod stock. 1/8" is hard to work with. Thanks for all of your help guys.
J
 
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