robotech
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- Feb 22, 2009
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I have completed several Buck Strider projects, and think I have a consistent procedure.
A littl preface.
I have noticed that Buck made the Strider kinda funny, at least, in my opinion.
If you look at the pivot point, you will notice that the pivot centering is off to one side.
This is caused by Buck using a .040 washer on one side of the blade, and a .020 on the other. I still don't get it.
Some may say that it's bucks way of preventing the liner lock from getting wedged once it has worn enough to allow the lock to go that far over.
I measured the thickness of the liner lock. It is .050.
IF Buck had centered the blade and used .030 bushings on each side of the blade, the lock still could not wedge in the gap.
Also, with this un-centered pivot, it requires the lock to extend over further than is it were centered. This gives the optical illusion that a stock Strider folder has the lock at 50-60%. It's really not.
But, WHY do that? I don't have an answer.
Anyway, I decided to experiment with that centering by just changing those bushings to a .030 on a side.
Hey, MUCH better, and the lock up is way closer to the lock side. That is because as the lock bar mover across, it essentially "shortens" as it does. So it will lock up a tad better, AND the lock bar does not have to swing as far.
This MAY cause the lock to be a little stiffer, but I didn't notice.
So, on to the next idea.
WHY use .030 on a side when .020 is possible. Why just .020? I'll explain.
So, I drilled out the scale pins on a newer 882 Tarani. And then looked it over real good.
I found that the Strider blade thickness is .145. Hard to find a standoff (and you have to have custom standoffs for this to work) that size. Even if you cut some lengthier ones down, the real problem is having enough thread left to get a secure torq down when reassembling. That's only .072 and you still need some space in the middle. OR, you can find a Bali type pin and just need one screw instead of two. Same goes for .157 stand offs (blade + .005 bushings). I know because I used them for my Tenacious mods. Never trusted them to hold.
Can't find .165' (.010 bushings) or .175 (.015 bushings). You can "cut down" longer stand offs and screws, but again, may not have enough thread space.
Ah, but .185 (3/16") standoff are easy to find. So that would be .020 bushings each side. Still a little large for my tastes, but a far cry from .205, (a .040 on one side and .020 on the other).
AND I can find standoffs in .185 that use 4-40 screws, MUCH stronger than the 2-56 the earlier G-1- versions of the 882 used.
And while we have the knife apart, then might as well replace the FRN (or black G-10) scales, right?
Oh, and I forgot. I do move the stock screw closer to the butt to allow a deeper carry, and to use a scale screw so only one new hole is needed. 4-40, too. Right side carry only, but could go lefty.
The stock pocket clip is actually attached to the FRN (or G-10) scale, using brass insets for the thread. Good and sturdy, but NOT screwed into the liner!
Anyway, here is my 1st project. A Screaming Yellow!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/998676-Custom-Buck-Strider-889-Work-Log/page2
So, I caught a used 882 fairly cheap. BUT, I would have to drill out the pins.
The yellow one was a PITA. And I didn't do much better on the second. Actually CRACKED the liner when punching out the pins.
Hey guess what, I now have a user, oh well.
At this point, I won't deal with a pinned version again. And have received one screw version already, and another on it's way.
But, here is the last pinned version I will do. I can't remove the screws to inset the screw heads because I am afraid it won't go back together as the liner finished breaking when I was drilling the clip screw hole.
The 882 has hardened steel liners, where the 889 (with the stock 420HC blade) has just an SS liner. Not quite as fragile as the 882's. But not as "springy", either. And the 889 wears a little quicker.
Quick info. The Buck Strider 889 is the same design, but comes with FRN scales only, and has the 420HC blade. The 882 TARANI can be found in G-10, but mostly the FRN, but does have the ATS-34 blade. And the liners material is different as noted.
Everything will interchange, no problem!
Here I changed to a Dark Brown Canvas Micarta. Added the new .185 standoffs, changed the pivot bushings to .020 on a side, dropped the clip back, and used 4-40 T-8 black screws.
Blade is centered
lockup at 40%. This is a USED knife and the liner is broken. It is the best I ca do with it, but it is stable.
This shows the new pivot and blade centering.
I will be adding some more Strider projects frequently, so keep checking back
Continued...
A littl preface.
I have noticed that Buck made the Strider kinda funny, at least, in my opinion.
If you look at the pivot point, you will notice that the pivot centering is off to one side.
This is caused by Buck using a .040 washer on one side of the blade, and a .020 on the other. I still don't get it.
Some may say that it's bucks way of preventing the liner lock from getting wedged once it has worn enough to allow the lock to go that far over.
I measured the thickness of the liner lock. It is .050.
IF Buck had centered the blade and used .030 bushings on each side of the blade, the lock still could not wedge in the gap.
Also, with this un-centered pivot, it requires the lock to extend over further than is it were centered. This gives the optical illusion that a stock Strider folder has the lock at 50-60%. It's really not.
But, WHY do that? I don't have an answer.
Anyway, I decided to experiment with that centering by just changing those bushings to a .030 on a side.
Hey, MUCH better, and the lock up is way closer to the lock side. That is because as the lock bar mover across, it essentially "shortens" as it does. So it will lock up a tad better, AND the lock bar does not have to swing as far.
This MAY cause the lock to be a little stiffer, but I didn't notice.
So, on to the next idea.
WHY use .030 on a side when .020 is possible. Why just .020? I'll explain.
So, I drilled out the scale pins on a newer 882 Tarani. And then looked it over real good.
I found that the Strider blade thickness is .145. Hard to find a standoff (and you have to have custom standoffs for this to work) that size. Even if you cut some lengthier ones down, the real problem is having enough thread left to get a secure torq down when reassembling. That's only .072 and you still need some space in the middle. OR, you can find a Bali type pin and just need one screw instead of two. Same goes for .157 stand offs (blade + .005 bushings). I know because I used them for my Tenacious mods. Never trusted them to hold.
Can't find .165' (.010 bushings) or .175 (.015 bushings). You can "cut down" longer stand offs and screws, but again, may not have enough thread space.
Ah, but .185 (3/16") standoff are easy to find. So that would be .020 bushings each side. Still a little large for my tastes, but a far cry from .205, (a .040 on one side and .020 on the other).
AND I can find standoffs in .185 that use 4-40 screws, MUCH stronger than the 2-56 the earlier G-1- versions of the 882 used.
And while we have the knife apart, then might as well replace the FRN (or black G-10) scales, right?
Oh, and I forgot. I do move the stock screw closer to the butt to allow a deeper carry, and to use a scale screw so only one new hole is needed. 4-40, too. Right side carry only, but could go lefty.
The stock pocket clip is actually attached to the FRN (or G-10) scale, using brass insets for the thread. Good and sturdy, but NOT screwed into the liner!
Anyway, here is my 1st project. A Screaming Yellow!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/998676-Custom-Buck-Strider-889-Work-Log/page2
So, I caught a used 882 fairly cheap. BUT, I would have to drill out the pins.
The yellow one was a PITA. And I didn't do much better on the second. Actually CRACKED the liner when punching out the pins.
Hey guess what, I now have a user, oh well.
At this point, I won't deal with a pinned version again. And have received one screw version already, and another on it's way.
But, here is the last pinned version I will do. I can't remove the screws to inset the screw heads because I am afraid it won't go back together as the liner finished breaking when I was drilling the clip screw hole.
The 882 has hardened steel liners, where the 889 (with the stock 420HC blade) has just an SS liner. Not quite as fragile as the 882's. But not as "springy", either. And the 889 wears a little quicker.
Quick info. The Buck Strider 889 is the same design, but comes with FRN scales only, and has the 420HC blade. The 882 TARANI can be found in G-10, but mostly the FRN, but does have the ATS-34 blade. And the liners material is different as noted.
Everything will interchange, no problem!
Here I changed to a Dark Brown Canvas Micarta. Added the new .185 standoffs, changed the pivot bushings to .020 on a side, dropped the clip back, and used 4-40 T-8 black screws.
Blade is centered
lockup at 40%. This is a USED knife and the liner is broken. It is the best I ca do with it, but it is stable.
This shows the new pivot and blade centering.
I will be adding some more Strider projects frequently, so keep checking back
Continued...
Last edited:
