Cut swedges vs drawn swedges ( on pocket knives )

Hickory n steel

Hickory n steel

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Feb 11, 2016
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How do you feel about them ?

For me it depends.
Drawn swedges are the safe bet.
They can pretty much look good on any blade shape, and it's hard to execute or implement them in a way that makes the knife ugly.
I like plain pens & spear points most, but a subtle drawn swedge can sometimes be just right.
Cut swedges on the other hand are quite particular, they need to be done just right and it absolutely depends on the blade shape.
They look the best on clip points , okay on a sheeps foot, and rarely good on spear points & pens.
I don't like the short cut swedges , for clip points it's gotta be a Bowie style that starts before the clip, and they typically look best with a long pull.
heres an example of a cut swedge I had and didn't like.


And a couple of great cut swedges.
 
Both can be done well or poorly, and I like both. I prefer cut swedges on really old patterns and drawn swedges on newer (post WW1 or thereabouts) patterns.
 
Drawn swedge for me with few exceptions.
 
Given a choice, I like drawn swedges. But cut swedges can still look good if done right.

Swedging is not decisive though. One of my favorite knives has cut swedges, despite the fact that I think drawn swedges are much more aesthetically pleasing on wharncliffe blades.

18199509381_a6443ca054_c.jpg
 
kamagong said:
Given a choice, I like drawn swedges. But cut swedges can still look good if done right.

Swedging is not decisive though. One of my favorite knives has cut swedges, despite the fact that I think drawn swedges are much more aesthetically pleasing on wharncliffe blades.

18199509381_a6443ca054_c.jpg
Click to expand...
If that swedge was half as long it would completely ruin the aesthetics of the knife.
 
Traditionally cut swedges were done on blades with long pulls and drawn swedges on blades with standard nail marks. This was due to the fact that in most cases a long pull was positioned right up against the spine of the blade and it was impossible to draw the swedge above it. In order for it to look the part a cut swedge should extend at least halfway down the width of the long pull, oftentimes right to the bottom.

Eric
 
I like both, but it definitely depends on the blade. First example that pops in my head is the GEC 47 Vipers. I absolutely prefer the drawn swedge on the Tidioute because the blade is still pinchable to open. On the Northfield vipers with the cut swedge, I can't pinch it open at all. I have to use the nail nick. So it just depends on the knife for me.
 
Hickory n steel said:
How do you feel about them ?

For me it depends.
Drawn swedges are the safe bet.
They can pretty much look good on any blade shape, and it's hard to execute or implement them in a way that makes the knife ugly.
I like plain pens & spear points most, but a subtle drawn swedge can sometimes be just right.
Cut swedges on the other hand are quite particular, they need to be done just right and it absolutely depends on the blade shape.
They look the best on clip points , okay on a sheeps foot, and rarely good on spear points & pens.
I don't like the short cut swedges , for clip points it's gotta be a Bowie style that starts before the clip, and they typically look best with a long pull.
heres an example of a cut swedge I had and didn't like.


And a couple of great cut swedges.
Click to expand...

The one on the Boker Made John Primble is much better in my opinion; not so sharp and abrubpt.

Primble 6.JPG

I do like swedges but the cut ones often leave a very sharp corner. GEC has sharp cornered swedge cuts that can hurt and I have stoned the corners on those I have or had.
 
sceva said:
The one on the Boker Made John Primble is much better in my opinion; not so sharp and abrubpt.

View attachment 2762871

I do like swedges but the cut ones often leave a very sharp corner. GEC has sharp cornered swedge cuts that can hurt and I have stoned the corners on those I have or had.
Click to expand...
I think this is just a matter of manufacturing variance, I'll bet some just have a more defined swedge than others.
Either way I realized that I don't really like long pulls or any kind of cut swedges on pen or spear point blades.
nail nicks, and drawn swedges or no swedge at all.
 
sceva said:
The one on the Boker Made John Primble is much better in my opinion; not so sharp and abrubpt.

View attachment 2762871

I do like swedges but the cut ones often leave a very sharp corner. GEC has sharp cornered swedge cuts that can hurt and I have stoned the corners on those I have or had.
Click to expand...
I totally agree with you on the Sharp Corners .

Harry
 
sceva said:
I do like swedges but the cut ones often leave a very sharp corner. GEC has sharp cornered swedge cuts that can hurt and I have stoned the corners on those I have or had.
Click to expand...


Old Engineer said:
I totally agree with you on the Sharp Corners .

Harry
Click to expand...
I've never noticed the corners of a cut swedge being especially sharp when using a knife, but now y'all have me sitting here rubbing my thumb on a bunch of them. 😏 I can feel it that way, but not enough to hurt or tear up my pockets. (not like some of the exposed tang corners on some GECs) A few passes with a SharpMaker rod ought to take care of that.
 
r8shell said:
I've never noticed the corners of a cut swedge being especially sharp when using a knife, but now y'all have me sitting here rubbing my thumb on a bunch of them. 😏 I can feel it that way, but not enough to hurt or tear up my pockets. (not like some of the exposed tang corners on some GECs) A few passes with a SharpMaker rod ought to take care of that.
Click to expand...

Oh yes, those exposed tang corners. I stone all of my GEC's to knock off those sharp edges. I have a habit of fiddling with my knives, kind of like a worry stone so I notice any sharp corner and take care of it.

Back to the OP's question, given the choice between at least some sort of swedge and no swedge; I'll take the swedge any day.
 
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