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Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Cutlass
- Thread starter Folsoml
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 22, 2015
- Messages
- 47
Man! I really like that! I may have to do one now just to see if i can!
That handle is super nice bud!, when I saw the raw picture of it, I didnt really get that it was the handle. The before and after shots on that is insane! You completely hand forged the guard right? Nice Job! Now get us a video of you chopping some rope or something, I want to see that thin in action!
That handle is super nice bud!, when I saw the raw picture of it, I didnt really get that it was the handle. The before and after shots on that is insane! You completely hand forged the guard right? Nice Job! Now get us a video of you chopping some rope or something, I want to see that thin in action!
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2006
- Messages
- 8,633
I have been wanting to make a cutlass for a long time. I got as far as making the Damascus billet for the blade. But this has got the fire going again. A little trick to getting rounded shapes in thin things is using wood as the anvil. Works great for making spoons.
Thanks!
To make the handle, I took a hole-saw and cut holes in an oak wood board. I kept the disc part that was cut out. I took the leather from an old boot and cut it into circles. I then stacked the wood discs with two layers of leather in between each disc (with wood glue liberally applied between each layer). I ran a bolt through the center and clamped it into my vise to hold it tight while it dried. Once it was dry, I sanded it into shape.
The guard was made from a piece of mild steel I heated and hammered into shape using a ball peen hammer.
To make the handle, I took a hole-saw and cut holes in an oak wood board. I kept the disc part that was cut out. I took the leather from an old boot and cut it into circles. I then stacked the wood discs with two layers of leather in between each disc (with wood glue liberally applied between each layer). I ran a bolt through the center and clamped it into my vise to hold it tight while it dried. Once it was dry, I sanded it into shape.
The guard was made from a piece of mild steel I heated and hammered into shape using a ball peen hammer.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,745
Nice job.
On a cutlass, I usually have a bit more beef in the tang, and a blade a bit wider and heavier. It is basically a chopping/slicing type sword, and needs strength and heft.
I would suggest that you should have drawn the tang back at the width of the ricasso, tapering it to a round threaded end. Two small shoulders at the ricasso will seat the hand guard. As it is the sudden transition to a 1/4" tang at the ricasso would likely fail in a hard chop.
The grind on the blade looks a bit undefined in the photos, showing a look of hammer marks ( maybe it is the lighting?). The bevel should be either a sabre grind or an FFG. Keeping it crisp and flat will both help in cutting as well as greatly increase the looks.
On a cutlass, I usually have a bit more beef in the tang, and a blade a bit wider and heavier. It is basically a chopping/slicing type sword, and needs strength and heft.
I would suggest that you should have drawn the tang back at the width of the ricasso, tapering it to a round threaded end. Two small shoulders at the ricasso will seat the hand guard. As it is the sudden transition to a 1/4" tang at the ricasso would likely fail in a hard chop.
The grind on the blade looks a bit undefined in the photos, showing a look of hammer marks ( maybe it is the lighting?). The bevel should be either a sabre grind or an FFG. Keeping it crisp and flat will both help in cutting as well as greatly increase the looks.
One of my next projects is to make a fancy belt grinder out of the motor from a table saw that someone gave me. I think this may help my blades be more even, and not show the hammer marks that you are in fact seeing. Right now I'm using an angle grinder with flap disc and a buffing motor with an Eastwood expander wheel on it.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,745
I could tell that the sanding was from something that rounded thing a lot.
I know everyone today wants instant gratification. But draw filing the blade flat by hand, and then hand sanding it with a block of hardwood behind the sandpaper will make a really nice blade. It may take 20 hours of work ( or 100 in the case of some Japanese swords), but the end result is well worth it. SA hand sanded 400 grit finish is fine for many blades.
I know everyone today wants instant gratification. But draw filing the blade flat by hand, and then hand sanding it with a block of hardwood behind the sandpaper will make a really nice blade. It may take 20 hours of work ( or 100 in the case of some Japanese swords), but the end result is well worth it. SA hand sanded 400 grit finish is fine for many blades.