Cutting antler for handle scales

[Henry Parrott]

How would you recommend cutting an antler roll for scales as obviously its round so would be difficult to use any kind of machine to cut without altering it.
Thanks

 

[91bravo]

I use a bandsaw. Bone stinks when you’re cutting it too.

 

[Henry Parrott]

I use a bandsaw. Bone stinks when you’re cutting it too.

Okay, but how do you secure it ? do you just free cut it or do you make a jig to hold it and ensure a straight cut ?

 

[91bravo]

Okay, but how do you secure it ? do you just free cut it or do you make a jig to hold it and ensure a straight cut ?

Hold both sides and push the bone into the saw blade. You should be able to get uniform cuts by free hand cutting it.

 

[Lesknife]

What I’ve done to cut round odd shaped pieces of antler or bone is to fasten them with glue or epoxy to a piece of wood or other material that can be sawn. After you secure them to the material in the desired orientation, either a table saw or band saw you can make a precise cut with better control. After you’ve cut the pieces you can sand, file or grind to the exact thickness or shape.

 

[Horsewright]

I cover how I do it pretty well here:

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/processing-elk-sheds-a-wip.1467821/

Worth reading all three pages for sure. I mention on the last page that since writing that I've gotten rid of my 14 inch bandsaw and do all shed processing on a portaband on a Swag table.

 

[neo71665]

Bone stinks when you’re cutting it too.

Yes it does

 

[RayseM]

I use a bandsaw too - mostly free hand but sometime I jig up a brace for crazy shapes. Resting the antler piece on a board with supports - old corks or other chunks of wood glued to the board supporting the antler as needed. A multi oscillating tool is a good option too but you need to clamp the antler. Would never ever use a table saw but that's just me - THOUGH - if securely epoxied to a solid piece of wood, comfortably big enough to control, that could be safe enough. I have a bandsaw so the greatly minimized element of risk using that over the TS makes the TS option moot.

 

[Hale Storm]

I use the bandsaw as well. Always free hand but i take it nice and slow.

 

[InThePocket]

I realize this is an old thread, but I'm looking at the same project - getting a piece of axis antler (or maybe something local) and cutting scales from it. It's for a Spyderco Mule. I did various kinds of shop work for years (professionally) and I'm comfortable with hand and power tools, but in my current location I don't have access to a band saw or table saw. I want to keep as much of the outer texture as I can.

My current idea is to get a large-diameter piece of antler, drill a couple holes through the center along the plane of the eventual tang, screw the piece down to either a board or directly to the chewed-up corner of the work table, mark what I need to, use a handsaw to cut off the scale pieces from either side, and then sand them flat on the back against a block before shaping them. Most likely attaching it with the Spyderco hardware kit they send with their handles. But I haven't worked with antler or any kind of bone before. Does that process sound like a decent way to go about it? Is there anything I need to look out for as I'm working on it?

Thanks in advance for your guidance, and apologies if this kind of necro posting isn't welcome, please move if needed.

 

[Horsewright]

Should work. When you are sanding and you think you are about there, you still got more to do.

 

[Alex Topfer]

Would a rasp or coarse file be a faster option instead of sand paper? Just a thought, i've never worked with antler

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

It is so simple I don't know why people don't all do it. - Make a sacrificial cutting sled.
Use glue (hot glue works great) to glue the stag (or any rounded or irregular object) to a flat board, (I use cut-off scraps). I use smaller blocks, but for finger safety, using a wider flat board is wise. Mark the stag with a vertical line that references the cut. Mark a centerline on the wood, and glue the stag on with the two lines aligned. Run the board through the bandsaw or table saw along the fence, cutting the stag and the board into slices as needed. You will get perfectly straight and flat backed slices.

I use this method to make the slice for my "mountain Man" folders.

 

[InThePocket]

Thanks for the replies y'all.

It is so simple I don't know why people don't all do it. - Make a sacrificial cutting sled.
Use glue (hot glue works great) to glue the stag (or any rounded or irregular object) to a flat board, (I use cut-off scraps). I use smaller blocks, but for finger safety, using a wider flat board is wise. Mark the stag with a vertical line that references the cut. Mark a centerline on the wood, and glue the stag on with the two lines aligned. Run the board through the bandsaw or table saw along the fence, cutting the stag and the board into slices as needed. You will get perfectly straight and flat backed slices.

Unfortunately no bandsaw or table saw access where I'm at, so I'll be doing this with hand power and time. But yes, I wouldn't want to cut anything this small freehand on power tools.

Should work. When you are sanding and you think you are about there, you still got more to do.

That's good to know. Thank you.

 

[Horsewright]

Thanks for the replies y'all.



Unfortunately no bandsaw or table saw access where I'm at, so I'll be doing this with hand power and time. But yes, I wouldn't want to cut anything this small freehand on power tools.



That's good to know. Thank you.

I flatten and thin my elk scales on a 9" flat disc with a 60 grit zirc disc. Even with that, take it to where ya think ya should be and then go more. Processed as described in the WIP above:

 

[RayseM]

It is so simple I don't know why people don't all do it. - Make a sacrificial cutting sled.
Use glue (hot glue works great) to glue the stag (or any rounded or irregular object) to a flat board, (I use cut-off scraps). I use smaller blocks, but for finger safety, using a wider flat board is wise. Mark the stag with a vertical line that references the cut. Mark a centerline on the wood, and glue the stag on with the two lines aligned. Run the board through the bandsaw or table saw along the fence, cutting the stag and the board into slices as needed. You will get perfectly straight and flat backed slices.

I use this method to make the slice for my "mountain Man" folders.

EXACTLY right. Don't scrimp on the size of the sacrificial board - a few inches bigger = better security = more safety. I still prefer the bandsaw for this kind of work but if all you have is a TS that will work too. You just need to upgrade your safety set up and truly keep your wits about you.

Your board length in the case of using the TS should be at least twice the span of the exposed blade - NOT - determined by the size of the antler segment. Don't use a piece of wood that could get trapped between the blade and the fence with you not being able to hold it.

This ^ by the way should be etched into table saw surfaces as a primary safety rule - IMHO.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Thanks RayseM.
I did not point out that I have a jig that clamps those smaller blocks. When cutting an ivory tusk or other irregular object, I use a piece of 1X10 or 1X12 about a foot long. This gives plenty of room for my hands on the sides to guide it along the fence.

 

[RayseM]

I wasn't addressing my extra cautions to you Sir Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , just a general word to the less experienced and a +10 to your post. Your added comment confirms that you've got this.

 

[Cf3]

When making straight razor scales with bone or antlers I've had good luck with a vise and a fine metal blade in a sawzall. I use a respirator rated for volitizaed mercury because don't want any microorganisms growing in my lung...my dog got leptosporisis or however it's spelled from rat pee and those animal organisms are nasty on the lungs....also soak bone in ammonia and leave it on dash of a vehicle with windows up to pull the fat out so stays white and doesn't yellow over time.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

A better way to prepare bone for scales is to:
1) Clean well, scraping off any flesh that is easily removed. Cut ends off if they will not be used. Remove fat and marrow if possible.
2) Soak in a bucket of water for a few weeks to allow bacteria to macerate the remaining tissues and fats. Set the bucket outside. Don't change the water. It is the brew of natural bacteria that does the work.
3) Degrease by boiling in a solution of water and TSP. After an hour, rinse and boil in plain water.
4) If the bone color isn't what you want, soak in bleach water for a couple hours, rinse several times, and dry.
5) Dry well, then process as needed into scales or handles.

The above method kills all harmful bacteria and probably any spores. It also removes the organic fats and things they grow on.