cutting competition knives?

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m. amos

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I'm a beginning knife maker and i'm trying to make a "cutting competition style" knife, not to actually enter in a comp, but just a start towards that level. Does anyone have any recommendations as to blade styles, steel type, etc.? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
FYI-- The steel you will need will depend on how you are going to Heat Treat. If you are going to do it yourself you may need to use a simple steel like 1084, 1095 or O1. These are oil hardening. If you are going to send out to a HT shop it most likely needs to be an Air Hardening A2, ATS34 or other. I would use O1 for oil and A2 for sending out. Blade style Big,
 
For what its worth If you do the heat treat yourself I would go with 1084 or 1095 but more important is the geometry. Most of them are full flat ground convex edge and weighted towards the tip.

have fun
 
Why not enter? They have different levels and it is a great place to learn. As far as design look up Reggie Barker on the web. Most have adopted his style. But the final design is up to you.

Here's a snap of my cutter. 52100 brass and canvas micarta
 

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The cutting comp knives are HUGE!!! They use MUCH thicker stock tan you would use for a JS or MS test knife of similar maximum dimensions. As previously mentioned, they tend to lack the normal ABS style sital taper and are heavy out front. The skill of the cutter plays the largest part in these contest, but yo do have to have a big honkin' knife to cut through two 2x4's in less than 5 seconds regardless of how good you are...lol.
 
You can order 1095 from alot of places, I got some from McMaster Carr they list a 3/16 12 x 8" for $44. This is enough for 2-3 big knives. Look at local steel supply houses you may be able to pic some up. Also see if they have a cutoff room . You can sometimes get pieces big enough for a knife that was left over from another order. You can ask them what they have in a oil hardening steel and make sure its in the anneled condition.

I am interested in making a knife that could be used in competition, are there rules posted somewhere. I know you have to have a lanyard (I think in the front of the handle) and maybe two?? seems like you would put a lenght or weigh limit on it to be competitive??
 
Copy of info on this years contest.



John Fitch

Jim Crowell

Lin Rhea (Defending Champion)

Reggie Barker (2 Time Champion)

Gayle Bradley

The championship was determined by points awarded in five cutting competitions:

Chopping a 2x4 on edge (timed event)

Cutting a cigarette placed in a shell casing without knocking it over

Cutting through a bundle of 5 one-inch ropes (1 point for each robe cut)

Cutting full cans of seltzer water

Cutting water bottles (1 point for each bottle cut)
 
I was under the impression that a 10 inch blade is the limit and you have to have at least one laynyard. Like Joe said the skill off the guy doing the cutting is the biggest part of who wins. At this point its like nascar. The knives are very much alike but the guy who has the best skills will win. Certainly if there was no length limit people would use swords

Chuck thats a sweet knife!

I think it is interesting to note you dont see guys going into this comp. with hollow ground knives. :) why do you supose that is?
 
Actually the knife design and the skill of the cutter play equal parts in who wins. A guy that consistantly places mid to low in the pack can move up to 1st or 2nd with a change in knife design. Just ask Jim Crowell. If you want the best information on both knife design and blade steel then go to the cutter page on the competition web site. There is contact information for all the certified cutters and they all will help you with any information you need. This years BladeSports Championship will be at the Blade Show. We will be doing a course cut this time which is real exciting. 12 cuts in a timed event.

www.bladesports.org

Daniel
 
Here is a comp cutter I made. Most have exactly 10" blades with 1.8-2" width on the blade and all are 1/4-3/8" thick steel from what i've seen.

Youll want a steel you can control the HT on...the things these go through will test the most in edge retention and durability, but any chipping or bending will disqualify you immediately. In short, you need a knife that can handle anything from 2X4 chopping down to shaving the ink off paper without cutting it.

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Here are some more examples:
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Here is a great thread on the subject with lots of examples:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=392487&highlight=competition
 
BladeSports competitions have 2 cutter levels at this time. Red is for the more experienced cutters and White for the newer cutters. All competitors cut together in the competition for the overall win but you also cut against other competitors on your level. Everyone starts as a White level cutter then as you consistently place high against the other White level cutters you move up to the Red level.

As far as disqualification for chips on your knife blade, that has changed also. When the ABS was the big dog in cutting competitions the competition was heavily weighted toward the knife. This is why the very strict rule about any chip or roll was a disqualification. ICCT (which is now BladeSports) adopted the direction that this was more a sporting event with equal importance placed on the knife and the skill of the cutter. Now the ruling is if a chip or other damage poses a safety threat the competitor is immediately disqualified. If the chip is small enough to not present a safety issue the competitor is docked points and allowed to continue cutting.

The pictures posted by David show some great knives. Having cut with a lot of knives and seen a lot of competitions I have a couple of suggestions. 1st the forward safety lanyard system offers both increased safety and will aid in heavy cuts like the 2X4. 2nd the recycled tire rubber offers a secure grip either wet or dry and has a slight cushion foe less fatigue in a long 12 station course cut.

Everyone should try competitive cutting. It is the best learning experience I have had in 30 years of making knives.

Daniel
 
5160 is a good steel to start off with. You can get some at McMastercarr. Most of the ABS guys use 5/16" stock, although 1/4" works well too. Taper the tang for speed and balance and most of all, have fun.

If you want to try one out, Browning makes a good example of one (designed by Crowell and Barker) that is very good for the money.
 
We are now beginning to get an organised branch of BladeSports together here in the UK I'm glad to say, and the design aspects of worthwhile cutting competition knives is a priority in my mind at the moment. That having been said, the way I was told about the cutter to knife ratio being, as far as success was concerned, is that it's 80 percent man and 20 percent knife. Of the mans ability it's down to about 80 percent technique and 20 percent strength. Still, being a bigger chap than most helps too ;)

David Schott... You just HAD to go and show Dan Farrs knife again didn't you ? :D Just looking at that thing makes me dribble and drool. I'd rather sit and look at that knife than at what the internet is most famous for ;)
 
The knife directly below Lin's is made by Jerry Lairson MS in Ringold , Oklahoma. It is unique in that it has a tuning fork in the full tang. Lets you know when you hit with the sweet spot. Nice knives.

Y'all have a good one.
 
A C Richards said:
Why not enter? They have different levels and it is a great place to learn. As far as design look up Reggie Barker on the web. Most have adopted his style. But the final design is up to you.

Here's a snap of my cutter. 52100 brass and canvas micarta
Click to expand...

Very reminiscent of a aranyik enep. I like it
 
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