Cutting/Grinding Carbon Steel

Maverick299

Maverick299

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Apr 12, 2014
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I was looking for some help with an idea that I had. The idea is to convert a old Case XX butcher knife into a Kephart/Spear point. My problem is I know how to handle a cutting wheel and a grinder, but know next to nothing about temper, heat treat, and how/if this can be done without destroying the integrity of the steel.

Is it possible to remove that much material without having to re-heat treat the blade when done?

When talking temper and heat treat don't be afraid to keep it at a 3rd grade level........because I know nothing.

 
Third grade level, maybe I can handle that, I hope! I think there are a few directions you can take to knock that tip down. I'll tell you what worked perfectly for me, maybe you can duplicate. WARNING.....extremely dangerous stunt here.....
I took my 8" bench grinder and placed it under running water (tried to rig up a mist type system really quick...was in a hurry....elected to go nuclear). That's right, a 120V grinder under running water. Did you say something about third grade? Maybe I need to go back. Anyway, I had no problem keeping the water away from anything that might make my hair stick up straight (more than already is). The water touched only the spinning wheel, never even creeping to the motor housing area. I was able to grind off LOTS of steel under the running water, and the steel never did raise temp. Bare hands, don't dilly dally on the grinder. Check your progress and potential heat build up. I found NO heat build up at all doing this, and re-profiled a tip on a carbon steel knife very similar to the old Hickory.
 
You could also go the laborious route of filing it down by hand...

Hopefully you have several hours to spare if you do that.

You'll definitely keep the heat level down that way.
 
You'll ruin a file in short order. Remember, this is hardened steel. Sure, it may be only in the mid-50s HRC, maybe 57 or 58 even. A file is not that much harder. You can certainly give that a try, but your file will be toast in short order.
 
A good file should not be harmed.
An easier method is to grind a little, dip in water, grind dip, grind dip. Never let the steel get hot enough to discolor.
Then finish with the file.
I can't recommend putting a bench grinder under running water. There are just too many things that could go wrong- exploding stone wheels and electrocution come to mind.
 
I've done this several times using a thin cutting wheel on a dremmel. Cut well outside the line and use a belt grinder to finish.
Keep the blade cool by dipping it in water when grinding.
 
Bazzle said:
I've done this several times using a thin cutting wheel on a dremmel. Cut well outside the line and use a belt grinder to finish.
Keep the blade cool by dipping it in water when grinding.
Click to expand...

This is how I have done any reshaping, be it knives or pulling a chunk out of the beard on an estwing long handled camp hatchet to hook and sharpen that.
 
Bill, I agree I probably shouldnt' have even brought it up. But it worked really well. I tend to disagree with the file tho. A file on hardened steel is going to be pretty much toast after a project of this size. Not to mention the time involved. The dremel cut off wheel will certainly do it....for sure.
 
I do quite a few of these as I mentioned. Got another one today.
I do them mostly for butchers and often replace the scales too.
They like to create certain profiles for cutting around neck bones and so forth.
 
I do what Dazzle and NJBillK do. I am getting ready to do the same to an Ontario butcher's knife. I'll reprofile the blade and put some new scales on it. I do feel a little bad replacing the scales because they are black walnut which is one of my favorite woods. I will probably try using a hack saw to rough out the new profile, if it doesn't work, out comes the Dremel.

Ric
 
Yes, van be done w/o ruining temper/heat-treat. Did a couple Ontario Butcher knives with slightly different tips, and have a Ontario Cleaver to do soon (much thicker blade). Fun, inexpensive play projects. Just keep the blade cool while cutting (don't let it get hot ... pre-cool it, or keep it cool during cutting/grinding). New scales are next on list for these, after I determine how I want the handled profiled by test shaping & using the first existing wood scales (micarta is the plan on these).

uploadfromtaptalk1427865646605.jpguploadfromtaptalk1427865721753.jpg
 
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I have reground the tip profile a couple times (pic below) since the original profile began, and plan now to reduce the blade length to around 4.75" - 5". Plan to run the thicker Cleaver blade a bit longer.

Below should be pick of original tip, along with one of existing project Ontario Butcher knifes (knife pictured in previous post.

uploadfromtaptalk1427868231774.jpg
 
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