Cutting Just Forward Of The Cho

D

DPris

Joined
Nov 27, 2003
Messages
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Anybody have much experience with cutting in that inch or two forward of the cho?

Assume the edge in the relatively soft material there dulls fairly quick?
Denis
 
The khukuri makes a great draw knife, where the cutting edge is the inside curve of the blade, between the cho and the bend. You put one hand on the handle, the other hand on the spine, and draw the blade toward you. This produces a lot more power and control than some of the draw knives that are sold in hardware stores.

How fast the edge dulls will depend on the hardness of the wood and the nature of the grain, but this usage is a lot less stressful on the blade than chopping.
 
The draw knife application is primarily why I asked, and I've also seen a video of it being used to shave & sharpen sticks.

Just wondering if anybody's used that area extensively, on what, and how well the soft edge holds up when used as strictly a cutter.
Denis
 
It will also depend on the kami and steel and too many other variables....whether a handmade knife from Yangdu or Randall, they all are individuals and one must simply see on that exact knife.....the steel is often below M7 bayonet hardness that far back but is a very tough steel where it should hold a useful edge for survival chores such as whittling/shaving/notching....my old Ang Khola did fine and only burnished edge in field but it will vary knife to knife....always...

But my experience with my knife showed it made a fine drawshave....which is also how used in Nepal....so no reason why it should not...
 
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DPris said:
The draw knife application is primarily why I asked, and I've also seen a video of it being used to shave & sharpen sticks.

Just wondering if anybody's used that area extensively, on what, and how well the soft edge holds up when used as strictly a cutter.
Denis
Click to expand...

Ill let you know in about a week. Im shaving 8 Tee-pee poles of mountain red cedar about 20 feet long. I already delimbed them and im shaving them now with the same 18" Bura AK. Making a mess of the driveway tho:D
 
Thanks, Ndog, that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for. :)
Red cedar should give it a good workout.
Denis
 
DPris said:
Thanks, Ndog, that's the kinda stuff I'm looking for. :)
Red cedar should give it a good workout.
Denis
Click to expand...

No prob man! Ill chakmak the edge there and test sharpness before I get into it too far and check occasionally throughout the process. Should be fun:thumbup:
 
I typically use my KLVUK as a draw knife when I get too lazy to sharpen my actual draw knife. The curve right after the cho for sure facilitates cutting. I've made axe handles with JUST a khukuri before. Not as easy as using the correct tools but fun.
 
So- how did the edge hold up?
What types of wood?
Have to re-sharpen frequently in use?

Details, man!
Denis
 
It held the edge for quite a while, especially since I was working in Elm and Rock maple. There was no real need for frequent resharpening, I did it more out of habit than anything, and used my Dui Chirra's chakmak than anything.
 
DarthTaco123 said:
It held the edge for quite a while, especially since I was working in Elm and Rock maple. There was no real need for frequent resharpening, I did it more out of habit than anything, and used my Dui Chirra's chakmak than anything.
Click to expand...

Ditto on the edge burnishing....
 
Why don't you give it a try yourself? :P

Now, talking seriously, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that most people don't use that part, more than that, don't bother to sharpen it...especially if we are talking about the very recurved portion.
 
DPris said:
Thanks, Darth.
Anybody else?
Denis
Click to expand...

I use it while camping to feather sticks and branches. Mainly Redwood trees. Never sharpened it, except for running the chakmak over it after each usage.
 
Moon,
I will.
Figured you all here have much more experience to draw on in certain areas & I'm looking for that collective experience. :)

Cul,
Perfect! That's another use I'd see for an all-round utility knife.
Obviously it can chop, but I'd like to know how it does in more mundane (and smaller) cutting chores.
Denis
 
Denis,
I finished the first pole today and the recurve area remained sharp. I began with the edge less than shaving sharp to say the least. It would slice paper with some rough resistance. It did get a bit rough after shaving one pole but the chakma is a wonderful thing. Where most would be inclined to sharpen with metal removing tools stones etc. It's not necessary. The chakma was all that was needed to restore the edge to original condition. No metal lost. The logs being processed were four years old and the bark was somewhat separated from the wood but also these logs have been laying on the ground getting rained on with silica sand and feldspar getting infused into the bark. Nonetheless the chakma refined the edge and little sharpness was lost. Ill post some pics in detail on another thread when i start it. I also used the rest of the Khuk to knock the knobs off from delimbing to restore the edge and as I said the chakma is a wonderful tool. If you feel inclined to sharpen you need to understand that sharpness is probably still there and realigning is likely all is needed. That is in the cho/recurved area where there is minimal hardness, If you do run the chak around the belly you will notice the hardness difference immediately and thats another thread.
 
I've never quite understood the re-aligning thing. :)
You think the chakmak's as effective as a diamond hone?

Interesting to see you're not losing the edge on that softer in-curve as much as I'd expect.

How's the driveway look?
Denis
 
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