CV Peanut in a Hot and Humid Climate? (Maintenance / Oiling)

J

jamesbeat

Joined
Jul 26, 2009
Messages
314
Now I've learned how to dye bone black, I'm quite into the idea of getting a Case CV peanut.
I've been carrying a RR peanut to get a feel for the pattern, and I'm loving it.
However, during the summer here in NY, we're treated to some extremely humid summer days, and with all the heat, it tends to make you pour with sweat that can't evaporate.
I bought a new RR peanut the other day, and I've had it in my pocket since Saturday evening. Now, on Wednesday evening, it's already started to tarnish.

I don't want to sound too gross, but I had to walk in the hot sun for about an hour today, and the bolsters on my 'nut have stripes on them from the sweat saturated denim pressing against them.

Hot, humid air with no breeze will do that to a guy :(

So, now I've grossed you all out, is a CV peanut a good idea, or should I stick with stainless?
I don't mind a bit of maintenance, but I don't want to be constantly fighting a battle either.

Maybe I should get a stainless one for summer and a CV one for winter...
 
Doesn't matter to me. If you're going to use and carry it, you can't expect it to not show wear. This goes for both carbon and stainless steel blades. It doesn't effect cutting performance; just keep it clean, sharp and the joints oiled and it should last as long as any other pocket knife.
 
I've carried all sorts of carbon steel knives in Arkansas summers, including those with iron bolsters, sweating like heck - no worries. I oil them about once a week with Militec-1 and wipe the blades with a little (good idea to thoroughly clean the oils off the blades the first time so the Militec can do it's thing). Ballistol is also good for this. However, YMMV.
 
So a once-a-week type maintenance routine is suffiecient then.
That's fine, I can manage that.
For sime reason, I had this idea in my head that I'd have to keep on top of it every day, and if I forgot, I'd end up with holes in the blade :D

I carried a kershaw chive for a while, and on one hot summers day, I got home to discover little rust spots all over the blade. I think that has made me a bit over cautious.
 
I think the oils in all the sweat, handling, etc. is enough to keep any knife from rusting. I haven't had any problems anyway. I only oil the pivots on my knives that are EDCed.
 
Down here in Maryland, we get all the moisture off the Chesapeake Bay that drives the humidity way up. Gets downright tropical on some summer days, with the sweat rolling off you even when your just sitting still.

I have not had any trouble with my CV in my pocket. In the morning, I wipe the knife down with a dry bandana and drop in the pocket. I'll use it during the day, cut what I need to, and drop back in pocket. If it was cutting some kind of food, then it gets a quick rinse with water, and dried off with bandana. Water may be creek or lake, or glass of water on a table.

That night I just give it another wipe down with a dry bandana and that's it. I don't consider it a fight to keep my knife clean, but a labor of love. It's also a good time to grab a peaceful moment to slow down where ever you are and admire a nice pocket knife. Kind of a mini zen moment for your mind and eye. The way people live these days, there's too few of those moments.

Yes, there will be some tarnish. Yes, the blades will stain a bit darker, but that's all part of life. I think in this day and age of synthetics, people have expectations of things staying pristine forever, or at least till they break and they toss them out. But I like things that show wear. I'm a lot grayer and creased from wear, so I don't expect my knife to show age any less than it's owner.

Just a wipe down with a dry hankie and it'll be fine.

Carl.
 
Jamesbeat,

I must have skin oils that are super corrosive. I could touch a polished high quality SS blade and rust would pop up.

With that said, I like carbon steel. I will just de grease a new knife, use it for everything for about a week, being mindful of no rust forming but just patina. Once all of the steel of the knife has a nice robust patina then I will grease the joint. I use nyogel 760, a grease formulated for aluminum flashlight but works well for joints. I just put some in the area, toss it in my pocket on a hot day, it kind of melts in. Later I will clean off all excess.

Back springs will turn dark grey almost overnight from my skin oils. Once I have a good patina the only oil my knife really gets is from sharpening. I use and carry mine all the time. I have problems if I try to keep carbon steel shiny and polished. But if I take care to gain a good natural patina for about a week after that the maintenance is very minimal.

I hope this helps.

Kevin
 
I'm ready for flames:

A light coat of Frog Lube on the handle/blade has worked perfectly for me on a variety of handle/blade types.

I hate the feeling militecs/break free/etc leave on the hands.
 
Skin oils ALWAYS have some sweat (moisture & salt) built into the mix. To greater or lesser degrees, depending on the individual's own chemistry. The oil just makes sure the corrosive stuff stays stuck to the blade. I wouldn't rely on skin oils to protect a blade from rust. Quite the opposite, in fact. I've seen too many fingerprint 'etches' on blades (and backsprings, and brass & nickel bolsters, too).
 
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I'm with jackknife. I grew up in Florida near the ocean carrying carbon steel knives. I've always found that a good patina and keeping the blades DRY goes a mighty long way toward warding off rust. Oil is for the joints.

One more thing: If/when you do get some rust, the Miracle Cloth kicks butt. I got mine for a couple bucks on that big auction site and it's lasted several years.
 
check out a dry lubricant called tuf-glide.... when i was in the military at a weapons research facility they were using this stuff to correct a problem they were having with trigger groups rusting out in AT-4's. they said that what put them onto this stuff was that the navy seals use tuf-glide on all their weapons before going into a salt-water corrosive environment. i believe that it creates a chemical bond to the metal and protects it, and also then dries so it doesn't attract dust and grime.

another thing to consider is cerakote (a ceramic paint designed for guns/knives). check this out. the c series passes the salt water spray test (5% solution) in excess of 2500 hours!!! much much better than gunkote or duracoat.... hope this helps.
 
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