D2 2.25" 4-finger Necker - Update: Pic Added

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Mar 31, 2011
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Alright. I posted this in the old Snark thread, and people could see the inspiration it received from the Izula.
A team of 3 guys I work with started the company, and all love their Izzy's so there may be something to that. I am not in any way related to it, receive no kickbacks, have no horse in this race, and bought this knife with my own money. I think it could fill a niche. To keep costs down, it comes with a little nylon fold-over pouch.

It's called a Ghost Knives Banshee. Steel is D2. I don't know what it's hardened to. They say the edge is taken to 35* inclusive, but the way it split my poor fuji apple I'm inclined to think that's per side. Plus at .165" it's thicker than my BK24, but the blade isn't nearly as wide.

I was kinda torn between the Izula and Candiru as a potential micro fixed blade. The Izzy has a great handle, but it's not very micro. The Candy has a great little blade, but the handle was useless in my paws. I got the 24 because it offered what I feel is a great blade for that size handle. I didn't need this knife, but I thought since it has a decent 4-finger handle and that tiny little blade it could fill a niche. Plus I wanted to support my co-workers' business and see what it's all about.

Here are some shots comparing it with my beloved BK24. I took the mycarta scales and paracord wrap off to make comparison easier.















As with the 24, for my big hands and slight clumsiness, I think it needs some scales. Not sure it warrants it, but I've long wanted some Shadetree Drunken Coffeebag Burlap. So I picked some up. Epoxied some tan G10 below because, well, that's just how I roll.









I ordered some hardware, and started the counterbored holes to fit. Rather than the nightmare of grinding an inset in the scales to fit the handle cutout, I trimmed and ground a piece of 1/8 aluminum to fit the cutout. Since it was kinda thin, I bonded a spare piece of .030 G10 onto one side.









Now I need to figure out how to size and shape the scales without grinding off the cerakote. I figure I'll go slightly smaller than the handle, but larger than the insert, like ESEE do with theirs. But that means freehand for me, so who knows how it'll turn out.

Also have a little brown .060 kydex left over from the 16 project a couple years ago. Going to try my hand at a minimalist "taco" sheath for this one. Wish me luckQ

So far, I would say if you want a nice, small 4-finger EDC fixed-blade the Izzy is a very popular choice. If you want a blade to match that handle, the 14 and, particularly 24, knock it out of the ballpark. I haven't used one more than handling in store for a couple minutes, but if I had wanted something smaller I would consider the Candiru. But my hands are kinda big. So, if you want a nearly-candy-size blade but need a bit more stick, the Banshee could be worth checking out.
 
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I made a little progress on the scales. Shaped 'em out and cleaned 'em up with mineral spirits.
I think I cut them a hair short, which won't hurt usability but may impact cosmetics slightly.
Still waiting for final hardware to arrive.









 
You might want to use some smaller bolts, unless you're going for the "locked finger position" in which case those might work!
 
Ya think?

Just waiting for some short screws and hidden barrel nuts to show up. Any day now...

Thanks for the bump, c-bear.
 
Guys,
I ground the scales so far back that it exposes about an 1/8 inch of the tang cutout and insert. I know the guy who had it coated, so I think I can match the color okay. But I need to create a smooth transition from the aluminum/G10 insert to the coated steel tang. I don't necessarily need to bond the insert to the tang, but doing so would not hurt.
What can I use as a filler for the gap? Epoxy? Liquid Metal? JB Weld? Other? In doing so, will I need to strip off the cerakote and sand/roughen the inside of the handle? Or can I bond directly to the cerakote?



It presses in there tightly enough to not move on its own, and will be held securely to the tang by the scales when installed. But I need to fill the unsightly gap, at least on the front portion of the cutout. It's aluminum on one side, with G10 epoxied on the other. I'd prefer to use one material to fix both sides, but if they aren't too expensive and the conatainers not too large I'll consider one for the plastic to steel bond and a different one for aluminum to steel.
(Other option is to make another set of scales - but I think these are sized perfectly for use and I'd hate to waste the shadetree micarta.)

What should I use? What would you use? Any suggestions and experience are appreciated. Thanks!

- Tom
 
What about someone bolster-ish? If I am understanding your dilemma correctly, maybe just epoxy some softer metal like copper (so you can bend it) onto the scales and reshape them a little.
 
Thanks gsom,
I was thinking of a bolster - metal, wood, or a small piece from another hunk of micarta (I have red and green just waiting for projects.) But I don't think I can get the cuts and bond precise enough to make it worthwhile. If I cut the scale back a bit more, I could probably drill holes for a couple small pins. But that's getting into much more of a project than this was supposed to be - and leaves me LOTS more opportunities for mistakes.
I'm thinking maybe metal patch & fill, smooth it out, and spray over with some Alumahyde II.
Unless I get better ideas...
I can't believe the cost of a little aerosol can of duracoat - more than the scales!

I'll see if I can post up a pic of the misalignment tonight. It's pretty minor, but rather annoying.
 
Here's a quick pick of the exposed insert:



I actually found some body repair putty in the garage, and decided to see if that'll do the trick.
Now I just need to find some AlumaHyde or DuraCoat in Flat Dark Earth. With shipping, they seem to come out about the same.
 
You might need to just scrap that micarta, that is a substantial amount of "repair" work you'd have to do... That is just my opinion mind you.


IF you want to go ahead with it, I think if you glue the micarta "repaired" part to a liner using epoxy and then you can just mount the liner under the scales you already have.
 
You may be right, C-Bear. But I hope not.
I was trying to make 'em a little undersize, like the Izula factory micarta, but I overshot the target a hair.
I'm going to attempt to "grind to fit, paint to match." If it doesn't work out, well, I've got a little experience in at least.
 
Alright.
Hand-sanded FOD's finest - the Shadetree drunken burlap - to 2500 grit.
Patched the gap with body filler.
Managed to find a coupon for free shipping on Alumahyde - so I'm going to see if that doesn't take care of it. Some say Coyote is a good match for FDE. We shall see...
Still waiting on mounting hardware.
Once it's squared away, and Photobucket stops blocking views, photos will be added.
 
The coyote tan paint came in today. Seems like a good match, but it's tough to tell for sure.
Came out in a narrow stream to begin with, so it may have run a bit. Then it went normal, and I just covered the heck out of it. Let it sit about 10 minutes and did another heavy coat.
Warmed up, and initially cured, with the heat of a 500-watt halogen shop light. Not scientific, but it should work.
Scales were rather flat. Shaped 'em a bit and re-sanded to 2000 grit. Cleaned with alcohol followed by mineral spirits.
Touched the brass hardware with gun blue - not quite the deep black I had envisioned, but a very dark brown to be sure. It should work.
I'm pretty excited - seems to be coming together. Brownells and others do recommend letting the alumahyde paint cure for a week, so it may be a bit longer for more pics.
 
Pics are back up so maybe I'll get a couple more today after applying a couple coats of BLO to the micarta.

I thought the Cerakote was rough. My lumpy application of AlumaHyde II makes the cerakote feel smooth as glass. The color match is pretty good - the Brownells seems to have a touch more green in it.
 
Sometimes I get the feeling I'm just talking to myself...

Regardless, I know most Beckerheads are visual , so I thought I better add in a pic ;)

Parts are nearly done; epoxy paint is curing, and scales need 1 last coat of linseed oil. I think I mostly fixed it:

 
What did you fill the handle with?

Filled the forward gap between the handle and the aluminum insert with auto-body filler (lightweight bondo-like product.)
I didn't use as much as, perhaps, I should have so there's still a slight gap. But I didn't have the right hardener and it was a mess to work with, so I'm calling it good enough. The rest of the gap will be covered by the scales.
 
The paint may not be completely cured, but it is certainly dry. I get impatient sometimes, so I put the handles on.
They really help lock the knife in place in my hand.
A little chunkier than the ones I did for the 24 - they offer great purchase.
Rather than being ground flush, they're inset a bit like the Izula micarta. Perhaps not the most beautiful things around, but they'll work on a working knife.
I like 'em.







 
I picked up a few brass eyelets for a sheath. Easy enough to turn 'em black, but I can't find anything in the shop to suitably flare 'em. Since I don't have the kydex I truly want in-house, and would also need to cobble together a press, both for the eyelets and the kydex, I've decided to forgo the headache this time and order a sheath from one of our highly regarded professional kydex benders.
Stay tuned for update...
 
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