D2 and mirror finish....HELP!

Joined
Feb 16, 2002
Messages
91
I recieved a bowie blank a friend had made from a planer blade(I`m assuming it`s D2),he wanted me to grind it and basically complete the blade,it is still fully hardened as I dont have the ability to anneal D2,the grinding went well,I mean I accomplished it rather than ruined it so that is well enough for me-it was a major chore.I have spent the last 6 hours or so hand sanding from 220-600 wet dry and then buffing the heck out of it and there are still frosty zones in the steel,they will not sand or buff out.The fellow I`m making this for really wants a mirror finish but I`m at a loss as to get there.
Also I cannot drill this thing to get the handle pins in,I`ve tried a brand new cobalt bit with cutting fluid but the blade just laughed at it.Is there a way to "spot" anneal just the areas where I want to drill?I`m going to use imistag slabs for the handle,if I use just 2 ton epoxy how durable will the handle be with no pins or anything else other than the epoxy holding the scales on?
Thanks for any help.
Scott
 
I am always finishing my D2 knives mirror. I use 220-400-800-1000-2000 grits then buff and its normally takes 6 to 8 hours to have a good hand rubbed mirror finish for 6 to 8" blades. However dont expect as mirror as any other stainless or carbon steel as D2 wont shine much. I dont know how you can drill it cause I didnt ever tried to drill a hardened steel. You can anneal all then drill and then HT. But it costs to send to HT or if you have a forge it requires too much experience. I anneal D2 simply heating it to about 900C and insulating the piece by catlitter, ceramic-fiber and red-hot fire bricks. I also annealed a blade somewhat by burrying it under very hot and fed often wood fire. It was not so soft as my first method but it was machinable.

Best wishes
Emre
 
If he's expecting a mirror finish like 440C gets, forget it. D2 will not get a true mirror finish. You can get a real good shine but not like a mirror.
Scott
 
The problem here is that with air hardening steels, when you try to spot anneal,it just hardens back up as it cools.A carbide bit will do the job,go slow and flood it with oil.A cobalt bit won't work.They are just anodized regular bits.
 
You can try using a soup can full of water and suspending the blade in it, leaving the handle exposed. Heat the handle (Will need a good welding torch) in the spots you want to drill to a deep Purple THEN shove it into some vermiculite or kitty litter handle first to let it cool slowly.

You picked one of the hardest steels out there to try a mirror finish on a hardened blade...Keep rubbin. D2 is grainy even after getting rid of the scratches.
 
I drilled a harden D2 blade with a sharpened carbide masonary bit going slowly. I expect a carbide glass drilling bit will work as well since harden D2 is a little softer than glass.
 
Don' Anneal, Too Much decarb. Will not anneal at 900. Would require a soak at 1875 then drop by 100 degrees per hr. down to below 900. lot of work, and a lot of carbon loss with out proper equipment, Thanks M. Lovett
 
Razorback - Knives said:
If he's expecting a mirror finish like 440C gets, forget it. D2 will not get a true mirror finish. You can get a real good shine but not like a mirror.
Scott
First the drilling. Use a carbide masonary bit. Cheep one time shot. Don't try to spot anneal. Even if you could get it to work, there would be high stress in the blade. Polishing D-2, At on time it was tought to be impossable. Use to be only T.M. Dowell, Corbit Sigman, and myself that did it. Here's the trick. Belt to a worn 400, so 500. A/O Belt. Worn Micron puta a glase on that wont remove. A fresh 6 micron is ok. Skip Black componud, as well as green or pink, These will only orange peal D-2, (cloud), Use Golden Glow. Used in the Jewlery trade for Gold and Platinum. Hard Muslin wheel, fully loaded with G-G. High speed. Firm Pressure. When to full brightness, Lightly tuch to soft whit G-G. When you get the hang of it. You can't tell the difference from ats-34. Good luck M. Lovett
 
x1prRnWlbIkK669wRd1rZxjbW1xRYiiTgwlngJhyqxDZDoTqcXBSSzDFpfbus1V-9yuysoK22VxujcExbAKekbHra2ZEpmYhOvgwrD0RsBTK3v2Fpmk1yb3KA

Well,I managed to get the pin holes drilled,a carbide tipped bit did the trick,it took a while but she punched through.I`m going to let the man who owns this blade decide if my mirror is enough for him,his knife buddy came by to look at it yesterday and didnt understand what I was talking about,"whadda ya mean,thats a beautiful mirror finish".....I explained that there should be no frosty zones but he was impressed nonetheless.
I`ll be glad to see this one go,this has been a learning experience but not a lot of fun.
 
It looks like it's made of gold in the photo, and I bet you wished it was when you were drilling/grinding/buffing it :)

Good job! Very nice!
 
Glad to see you got it done. If nothing else I'm sure you learned abunch. I bet you wore out every belt you had in the process. Hope you made enough to pay for your expenses......
 
mlovett said:
Don' Anneal, Too Much decarb. Will not anneal at 900. Would require a soak at 1875 then drop by 100 degrees per hr. down to below 900. lot of work, and a lot of carbon loss with out proper equipment, Thanks M. Lovett

I think he said 900º celcius.

Makes a difference :)
 
I think he said 900º celcius.

Makes a difference
I said 900 centigrade not F. I know it is below 1800 F and not a proper way to anneal but it is enough to soften and remove stress. Thanks Ysforge....
 
That turned out great. Looks like an old German made bowie I rehandled and added a guard to. Nice job.
Scott
 
Glad the carbide trick worked. D-2 Lot' Lots of work huh? Nice job.. bet your tired. Now get back to work. he....He...he... M. Lovett
 
Back
Top