D2 by hand?!?!?!?!?!

J

Jared P

Joined
Jan 18, 2000
Messages
220
Howdy fellas! This is my first time to post a question like this in this forum, I have just been lurking trying to pick up the lingo! Anyway, I have been talking a bit with Chris Hatin to see if he could make me a "kit" of one of his great knives. While talking with him, the question came up about how easy it would be for me to finish a D2 blade by hand. (I don't have many tools, and next to no money for new ones I might need) Anyway, I was just wandering, what would you guys suggest Chris finish the blade to so that I might realistically finish the knife, and still be as sane as I am now...which is not very
wink.gif
?

Anyway, any help you could give would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help
Jared

------------------
Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me?

I hope that after I die, people will say of me: "That guy sure owed me a lot of money."

[This message has been edited by Flesh Gordon (edited 03-02-2000).]
 
D-2 is hard to finish, but no more so than anything else. I have done many kit knives in D-2 and if they are flat ground, all you need is a pile of sandpaper, a sanding block, elbow grease, and time! Get a hard wood sanding block, preferably small, and 220, 320, and 400 sandpapers, higher if you want a higher finish.
Read my webpage (Knife Kit Tutorial) if you want to see how to do it!

------------------
My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html

 
Hey Chiro, thanks for the help. I have read your tutorial a couple of times, it is what gave me the kit knife fever...thanks alot...bastard
biggrin.gif
! Just kidding! So, can I imply from your post you think he should bring it up to about a 220 finish for me? Does that sound right?

Thanks again
Jared



------------------
Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me?

I hope that after I die, people will say of me: "That guy sure owed me a lot of money."
 


Um Chiro, not that I'm trying to argue here, but, wouldn't a brass or steel sanding block be better? I started off with wood ones and after a while they start contouring to "that" particular knife and is useless for the next and I have found that I start curving them.

------------------
KSwinamer

Atheism....A non-prophet organization
 
Quite a few folks use micarta for the sanding blocks but I have been won over by wood with leather glued to it. This works extremely well.

I would have trouble using brass or any other metal. I am sure that there are some folks out there that do, but I wouldn't.

C Wilkins
 
What do you guys think about the level of finish I should ask for so I can realistically be able to finish the blade by hand.

Jared


------------------
Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me?

I hope that after I die, people will say of me: "That guy sure owed me a lot of money."
 
Hi Guys.

I have made quite a few blades of D2. I have hand finished most of the blades. I would think that a 220 to 320 grit finish would be the way to go before hand finishing. I have even gone higher.

Oh yeah, I have used the same hardwood block, for sanding, for more than 10 years. I also use an old worn out file with sandpaper wrapped around it.

------------------
Barry
Jones Knives

Do you hear that?
That is the sound of inevitability.
 


Heh, maybe I was doin it wrong
smile.gif
Mr Wilkins....why wouldn't you use a metal for a sanding block? Just curious, and why leather over wood?

P.S. all my knives are flat ground, does that make the difference between our choices?

------------------
KSwinamer

Atheism....A non-prophet organization
 
I use Norton EDM stones available from MSC in grits 220-600. Works very nice and you can radius an edge to where it will finish the plung cut as well. Before the first use of each stone, 1) I radius one edge the full length, 2) I start loading the stone with lube (Cool tool II, honing oil, etc.) until it will not absorb anymore. The stone is now ready to use. With the small puddle on top of the stone, start finishing the blade. You will only need to re-charge the stone when you stop and wipe down the blade to check your progress.

Oh, these stones are relatively cheap, cheaper than paper in the long run for it lasts much longer.

Hope this helps.

Spencer Stewart
Adapt, migrate, or die
 
Gracias guys, that answers my questions.


Jared



------------------
Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me?

I hope that after I die, people will say of me: "That guy sure owed me a lot of money."
 
As far as using steel to back the paper with, if care is not taken, it is fairly easy to scratch the blade with the metal. As far as the leather on the wood (or micarta or whatever you want to use) it tends to contour better to the blade. Like every one else, I was using micarta or wood until someone showed me different. Just try it and see if it works any better for you than just using plain wood. I also use a cutting fluid, as some of the others have mentioned.

When you are doing the hand work, common sense tells us to at the very least wear one of those paper mask thingies. Believe it or not, hand work creates quite a bit of dust. Don't filter it with your lungs!

C Wilkins
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top