D2 for chefs knife

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Feb 2, 2013
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I had to order some D2 for a project and was wondering if it would also be suitable for a chefs knife. The research ive done said some yes some no so whats the opinion of the smiths in the know.
 
Generally you want small carbides for a kitchen knife so that the edge isn't so toothy and rough. D2 has very big carbides. I'm sure it would work, but it would be difficult to get a really keen, refined edge.
 
Ive seen Phillip Patton use it some on chefs knives if memory serves me right..Just use the appropriate heat treat to get rid of all that RA that D2 tends to have.
 
As Don said, not the best choice.

I used CPM-154CM for many years, and have switched to CPM-S35VN for the past couple years. AEB-L is also super if you want a razor edge slicer, but doesn't retain an edge like S35VN or 154CM. I see people post impact chart results saying that one stainless steel is better than another at chip resistance, but in a properly used chef or kitchen knife, that really isn't a big deal.
 
Ill throw a plug in for AEB-L while im at since Stacy mentioned it..Love it, great kitchen knife steel.
 
I usually use 15n20 but aldo wont have any for atleast a month i will use the D2 for other knives im going to send it out to heat treat
 
Sorry, I though you were looking for a stainless steel.

15N20 isn't stainless. If you want a carbon steel, any one above 80 points will make a great kitchen knife - 1084, 1095, W2, 52100, O-1, 15N20.

Aldo also has Hitachi Blue steel, which makes great kitchen knives.
 
D2 works pretty good in the kitchen. A lot of the issues that people have attributed to the large carbides are probably just issues with edge stability and there are ways to address that with heat treat. And D2 can take a tree topping edge just fine.

One of its strengths is abrasive wear resistance which plays no role in a kitchen knife (unless you're eating abrasive foods?). The same is true for something like S30V etc. I think that most people need edge stability and edge durability when clacking against the cutting board and occasional bone contact etc. In that case something with more moderate carbon and alloy will probably do better.

AEB-L is pretty sweet in a kitchen knife and cooks can sharpen it.
 
Btw. What about Bohler K340 instead of D2 ?
( it's available in 2,5mm thickness)
This steel is made by ESR method.
 
Like most people here, D2 isn't my first choice for cooking knives, but that said, I have been very pleased indeed with the few I've made, and the D2 outdoor knives I've made, heat treating by the method Nathan posted a while back.
A fine edge on one of these will do all the usual paper cutting tests just fine, and these would go beyond that and free cut in a spiral pattern in newsprint....that's a nice edge. Lasts very well, too.
The usual HT processes give you the crude, sturdy edge that you'd expect from D2. Probably great for most cooks.
 
Sandvik 14C28N is a very good choice too, its in the same family of AEB-L, and I agree on CPM S35VN


Pablo
 
samuraistuart said:
If you're dead set on D2....I would definitely go the CPM D2 route.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I get that. But if you like CPM-D2, you're gonna LOVE CPM-3V. And if you love 3V in thin stuff that doesn't see a lot of impact cutting, you're gonna go bonkers for Elmax or CTS-XHP.

If you happen to have some D2 you want to play with for thin keen slicers like kitchen knives, go for it! I'm sure with appropriate geometry and HT it would work just fine.

I see no reason to make a habit of it, though. There are much better-suited alloys available. D2 was never designed to be used in paper-thin, very acute cutting tools, it's a die/stamping steel. You can push it to its furthest limits for uses it wasn't meant for, and it's still quite good... but at a certain point, you're trying to drink whiskey from a bottle of wine.

I generally like AEB-L, CPM-154 or CPM-S35VN, and 52100 or O1 for kitchen knives. I love Elmax and CTS-XHP, but honestly most people will never really notice the difference between them and the other alloys mentioned.
 
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i'm just about ready with my first batch of D2 kitchen knives, some chef's knives and some cleavers. First impressions are that after HT it's virtually impervious to grinding, i'm throwing belt after belt at it and it just won't budge, impressive!

After sharpening it on diamond stones however, i'm left with some impressively sturdy knives. and the best thing is they are stain resistant, something i always get complaints about on my O1 knives.

i have to do further testing ofcourse but i have to say they don't look and feel all that bad to me for a kitchen knife.
 
dozier has made some kitchen styles out of d2, chef's knives,paring knives,santokus,etc. i'm fairly sure they were more then adequately sharp.
 
I really like O-1. I dont know why its seens as such a newbie steel. It holds a very respectable edge and is easy enough to work with
 
O1 is mistaken for a newbie steel because it is oil quenching instead of water quenching. It takes temp control to heat treat properly and makes a great knife. I switched to 52100 only because it has more appeal to buyers of kitchen knives. Most orders are for W2, then 15n20 (simple heat treat and selection of thin stock in 15n20 keep the price down.) 52100, hitachi white/blue for the "snobs" :D are popular. I only do AEB-L and S35vn in stainless.
 
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