D2 para in hot and humid weather

S

SangYuP

Joined
Jul 16, 2009
Messages
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I just ordered a D2 para military, but after more reading on the internet, I'm getting worried. I live in southwest GA (weather is just as hot and humid like FL). I'm worried that the D2 metal will rust and corrode in this type of climate. Also, another concern of mine is that I have read about the compression lock release digging into your hand when gripping the handle hard like a hammer. I believe it digs into the webbing between your thumb and first finger. Is that a big issue? I ordered a Caly3 G10 SE and now I'm sort of leaning towards another Caly3 G10 but with PE. I spent so much money on the knives that I'm a worried I made the wrong choice. I know there are a lot of people here who have the para so please share your experience. Thanks!
 
I'm sure I'm in the minority, but I never met a compression lock I liked. I always found it awkward to operate and all of mine exhibited play right out of the box. Granted, it's been years since I've tried one. Maybe the newest iterations have been improved.

As to the potential for D2 to rust, just wipe the blade down every now and again with a Tuf Cloth or similar and you'll be fine. (Especially if you get the blade good and dirty or wet!) Common sense will go a long way.
 
D2 is just barely under the cut-off point for stainless, so it shouldn't require much extra maintenance. See Firebat's suggestion.
 
I use a Tuf-Cloth on all my knives and have gotten no rust problems, even on my carbon blades.
 
Josh K said:
I use a Tuf-Cloth on all my knives and have gotten no rust problems, even on my carbon blades.
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Thanks for your sugguestions on maintaining the blade using Tuf Cloth. I've read that mineral oil works too. Between tuf cloth and mineral oil, which ones works better? I know if you cut food, you should use mineral oil, but strictly speaking from performance, which one is better? If they are the same, then I would most likely use mineral oil. By the way, where do you buy mineral oil? Is it labeled as mineral oil or is it a certain product that has mineral oil in it?
 
SangYuP said:
Thanks for your sugguestions on maintaining the blade using Tuf Cloth. I've read that mineral oil works too. Between tuf cloth and mineral oil, which ones works better? I know if you cut food, you should use mineral oil, but strictly speaking from performance, which one is better? If they are the same, then I would most likely use mineral oil. By the way, where do you buy mineral oil? Is it labeled as mineral oil or is it a certain product that has mineral oil in it?
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A lot of it is personal preference but I still prefer the Tuf-Cloth. It's a dry film that doesn't attract dirt or lint, rather then mineral oil with has to have a layer on there.
 
SangYuP said:
I just ordered a D2 para military, but after more reading on the internet, I'm getting worried. I live in southwest GA (weather is just as hot and humid like FL). I'm worried that the D2 metal will rust and corrode in this type of climate. Also, another concern of mine is that I have read about the compression lock release digging into your hand when gripping the handle hard like a hammer.
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Take it easy, brother. You'll be fine. I don't baby my knives, but I don't abuse them either. A light coating of mineral oil, Eezox, Tuff Glide, etc., will take care of any rust concerns. As for the compression lock.... I love it. I wish more Spydercos had it. It's never let me down, nor has it bothered me with any grip. The only thing that I've come not to like at the Para is the shape of the handle. I reshaped mine. It's no CQC14 but it's a lot better than what it was. I think you'll like the Para.
 
Every day before I go to bed the knife I carried that day gets a little love, I go over it with a strop a few times and wipe the blade down with a thin layer of oil. It takes less time then it takes me to brush my teeth (seriously if I’m tired I’ll do it as I’m using mouth wash) and I’ve never had corrosion problems on any of my knives, be they D2, CMP-D2, or high carbon.

The Para makes an amazing EDC and you’ve got what I consider to be the finest version of it. Take a few seconds at the end of the day for some oil, remember to wipe it off if it gets wet (your pant legs will do just find) and you and that knife will have a long and happy relationship.
 
Josh K said:
A lot of it is personal preference but I still prefer the Tuf-Cloth. It's a dry film that doesn't attract dirt or lint, rather then mineral oil with has to have a layer on there.
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I use mineral oil simply because I like to keep them food safe, like Josh said its all personal preference.
 
My BM Nitrous Stryker in D2 has developed some staining on the blade after a year of EDC, I'm sure more to my lack of maintenance than anything else.
 
My sentry solutions (tuff glide, tuff cloth, etc) instruction guide that came with my armors kit. Says that for knife blades used for food prep its ok to use the tuff cloth but to polish or buff the blade to a shine after wiping with the cloth.

I'll re-read that section tonight and repost but I"m pretty sure that was fairly close.

I live in south Louisiana about 25 miles from The Gulf of Mexico, its hot here and our humidity is very high most of the year its above 90%. Everything rust. I see where a lot of these guys are from the midwest or north and while they mean well don't have to deal with the humidity that we have.

D2 is going to require more maintenance in your local than it would in others, plain and simple. Not talking about a significant amount of time but it will require more maintenace as will anything else including CPMS30V, CPM154CM and other stainless steels. High humidity and heat are killers especially with the prespiration factor thrown in.
 
My weather here in Raleigh isn't that different from yours. I use a silicone cloth made by outers and sold at wal mart for about $3.99. It lasts months. I have no rust problems on my CPM D2 knives like your spyderco Para millie, and other, easier to rust steels like O-1, 1095, 5160, etc.

There do seem to be some people that rust their knives with their sweat more than others. Even if you are one of those people a little care will prevent rust.

Keep fingerprints and body sweat/oil smears from sitting on your knife for long times, hours to overnight.

If you have done something with lots of salt, like swimming in the ocean, cut acidic fruits or other things hard on steels just rinse it off, dry it, then reapply the silicone with a wipedown. Don't forget to carefully keep the edge wiped down too.

Of the non stainless steels D2 is one of the least prone to rusting. With minimal care you will have no problems even doing things like going to the beach for a week or two. Enjoy your knife. It's a very good one. Joe
 
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I live in Florida walking distance from the gulf and the humidity is killer. I've always just wiped my blades down with rem-oil when needed.
 
Thanks for all your advice. The patina is a good solution, but I don't know if I can purposely "ruin" the blade and (this is my very humble opinion) I don't think it looks good at all. I don't like the splotchy look. Maybe if it was all even. I think I'll just use tuf-cloth or mineral oil. Or better yet, can I use tuf-cloth initially and every couple of weeks and use mineral oil on a daily basis? Will using both in combination not be good for the D2 metal? I'm very new to all this and this is my most expensive knife I have ever own and I want to do it right and not ruin it.
 
i dont think any type of oil or combo will effect the blade at all p personally like the patina so i was happy to have it there it started to form on its own so i just went ahead and gave the steel what it wanted haha... but if ur not careful you can get rust pits on the blade hence the patina preventing that from ever starting .. but im sure with daily cleaning and oiling you wont have any problems either way :)
 
rmc85 said:
Take a look a my D2 Para I just patinaed.

Doesnt look much different for factory at all. I live in FL and I did have rust problems prior to the patina.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=663553
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rmc85, your patina is probably the best I've seen so far. I know this will sound really picky and anal, but the little bit that didn't take around the hole bothers me. If I can get a 100% even patina I would give it a serious thought. But like I said yours is the best I've seen so far and if it wasn't for that small bit at the hole, I would try it out.
 
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