D2 Questions

TIZWIN

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
1,145
Hey guys--I've been frustrated getting a nice, polished edge on my Camillus Cuda Maxx. I set the bevel on my Edge-Pro, then went on to the Spyderco Sharpmaker. All the way to the Ultra Fine stones. Still can't get that newsprint-slicing edge, at least not further than 1/16th of an inch from my pinched thumb and forefinger.

Am I not sharpening correctly? Or is there something inherent in D2 that precludes a polished edge?
 
I've never tried to get a polished edge with D-2, but I can get one inch out push cutting edge with the gray stones on the Sharpmaker. Lotsa work the first time, but real easy to maintain once you get there. A nice ROUGH edge that both push cuts, and slices like a chainsaw!:D
 
Try the sharpie method. I polish my D2 blades all the time, and can get them very sharp, tree top trimming sharp. The edge pro should do it for you out to the 3000 tapes.
 
You should be able to get D2 to a finish that can shave hair . It can also take a fairly low angle like 12 or 15 degrees per side.I think I've even read of someone going as low as 6 degrees. Are you getting a burr?
 
Still can't get that newsprint-slicing edge ...

It won't cut newsprint on a draw unless it is 1/16" from the point where you hold it?

Or is there something inherent in D2 that precludes a polished edge?

The 50 micron diameter carbides require the edge to be fairly obtuse for it to be stable.

-Cliff
 
Sorry, Mr. Stamp. I mis-spoke. Or rather, mis-typed. I meant I can't get a push cut beyond 1/16th of an inch from my pinch. Actual slicing, or draw-cutting, is easy. It's the elusive push cut that frustrates me. I left the Edge Pro for the Sharpmaker because I'm more used to the Spydie. Perhaps I should do the whole process on the Edge Pro. It's the last inch or so towards the tip that is especially challenging.
 
The tip on knives is often ground more obtuse to keep it at the same width as the rest of the knife, when you first sharpen it, especially on steels like D2, it can take awhile to cut off all of this steel and reach the actual edge.

What angles are you using and how sharp it is after the more coarse grits? Can you check the edge for burrs under light magnification (10X) or inspect carefully under light - Look for a shadow or uneven reflection. The shadow will be a very faint dark line, not even as thick as the line on ruled paper.

-Cliff
 
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