D2 suitable for whittling

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Dec 15, 2003
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I'm about to receive my second Queen Whittler in D2. I had intended to use it for whittling, which I took up on Father's Day this year.

Up to this point, I've been using Shrade 1095 and Case CV for my whittling. Both take a nice polished edge very easily.

Anyway, some discussion on another forum reminded me that D2 does not take a polished edge. So my question is, is D2 at all suitable for whittling? Have any of you whittled with D2? :confused:

(Even if it's not going to be used for whittling, it's not a total loss because I really like the pattern, and it would simply become more of an EDC slipjoint.)
 
It will work, but results may vary. Your edge bevel angle and the type of wood you are using will be factors too. I've tried it and had decent results, but prefer 1095 or something more like it. It will make a great EDC though.
 
I got my Cocobolo whittler on Saturday. This morning I used a course carborundum stone to thin it out and then finished it on my Sharpmaker at 30 degrees inclusive.

I then used it to spent a few hours working on a ball in a cage in basswood. It worked pretty well for me. I used it right alongside a 1095 Shrade 3030T and to be honest I didn't notice a huge difference in how it cut or how the wood looked when cut. As expected the D2 held its edge much longer than the 1095.

The spine of the master blade was just starting to stain from being in my sweaty hands for hours (it was about 95F here today).
 
I've used d2 for whittling for several years.

I feel that it can be sharpened to the same degree of polish as any other steel.

One of my favorites to date are the Queen Oar Carver models......great whittlers.

Thomas Zinn
 
I feel that it can be sharpened to the same degree of polish as any other steel.
Yes it can, just not as easily, at least for me. What takes a few minutes of stropping on charged leather with a simple steel like 1095 seems to take forever with D2.

For carving, I have not seen any advntage to D2 over high hardness 1095,a nd prefer the simpler steel for this application. Just my .02.
 
KeithAM said:
I...some discussion on another forum reminded me that D2 does not take a polished edge.

Mel Sorg's D2 blades were highly polished, push straight down into newsprint with no draw and could shave above the skin. I have D2 blades from lots of makers and there is no problem getting a high polish on any of them.

-Cliff
 
Specific to thsi thread, In have used Schrade 1095 and Case CV and both take a polished edge much easier than D2 for me. I use Lee Valley or Hand America abbrasives down to .5 micron, and strop on leather charged with Lee Valley Veritas polishing compound. ON the Edge-Pro I use the tapes.

For some knife use, like a Canoe pattern, designed to cut rope, then the wear resistance of D2 can be an advantage. For carving wood, not so much if any.

What would be ideal is if companies would start making truly versatile slip joints using steels optimal for the intended purpose of the blade. Take a 4" knife with the following blades: An M2 blade, run full hard, for carving wood (a small wharncliff) a large spearpoint in 52100 for utility and a serrated sheepsfoot in D2 for rope cutting. Now add a wood saw blade in L6 for cutting wood and plastics. Give it a durable yet attractive handle material (like some old school natural or rag micarta), and some really strong back springs, half stops and superlative fit and finish. No need for file work or anything fancy. That would be an ideal knife for me.
 
Great idea knifetester. Try to find a whittler pattern that has a good steel for whittling. Not too many out there.
 
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