D2 tool steel discussion

V

Vicarious Reality

Joined
Apr 9, 2008
Messages
1,319
Do you like it?
How tough can it be made while retaining practical edges? How tough is CPM-D2?
How long can it retain an edge?
I know i saw it right at the best of an edge retention test result list once
I just got my first D2 knife, a BM 32, despite the man's best effort, heh heh

At least it looks good
dat chrome

Excuse any penmanship defects, i had a bottle full o something to celebrate
 
I can't speak for BMs D2 but I've had a Paramilitary in CPMD2 for years and find it one of the most enjoyable steels I have used. I was concerned about ease of sharpening, rust, etc.. but have found with a little care it is nearly stain resistant and not bad at all to sharpen if you don't let it get flat out dull. It holds an edge so well that I haven't been able to get it that dull!
 
D2 makes for an excellent knife steel, especially at 61-62 RC

I would ignore most of the conjecture about it being "hard" to sharpen.... being a tool and die steel, well of course it's going require more time on sharpening stones because it's designed to be a extremely long-wearing steel. Once you set your bevels, I've found a breeze to keep sharp. Touch it up once a month for light use or twice a month for really abusive chores. And like any other steel on the market - if you let it go for a long long time without touching up the microbevel, it's going to be a pain in the ass to re-set the bevel.

So far I've used Buck, Spyderco (CPM version), and Benchmade D2 and they've all impressed me. Maybe I'm biased (big fan of tool steels and ball-bearing steels), but I think it's one of the best steels available on the market. It's been around for quite a while it's field-proven, unlike a lot of these newer powder stainless (see S30V - a fan favorite, I know!).
 
I have a BM710 in D2 and it is indeed a great steel. Not too bad to touch up while staying sharp for a long time. Will take abuse and still shave much longer than my S30V based knives. HT is a part of it but even compared to my Ritter mini-grip in S30V it holds an edge longer.
 
I have a few knives in CPM-D2, in production (Kershaw) and custom folders. I will echo the consensus of opinion here based on my experiences, and say that it is indeed a low-maintenance steel. It takes and holds a very sharp edge while not at all being difficult to sharpen once your bevels are set. I've only really had to strop my D2 blades after being wiped down after use.
 
symphonyincminor said:
D2 makes for an excellent knife steel, especially at 61-62 RC

I would ignore most of the conjecture about it being "hard" to sharpen.... being a tool and die steel, well of course it's going require more time on sharpening stones because it's designed to be a extremely long-wearing steel. Once you set your bevels, I've found a breeze to keep sharp. Touch it up once a month for light use or twice a month for really abusive chores. And like any other steel on the market - if you let it go for a long long time without touching up the microbevel, it's going to be a pain in the ass to re-set the bevel.
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I agree with all of that. I love D2, and have bought a few Queen traditional folders because of them using that steel. It does take a bit more work than the really soft carbon and some of the softer stainless steels that are used on so many knives these days but it is really worth the little bit of extra effort to sharpen and rebevel.

And on my traditionals with D2 blades, I only strop about once a week - that's it for edge maintenance.

I have had excellent service with D2 on the Kershaw, Ontario and Queen knives I own. I like it enough to look for it when I buy.

Robert
 
I've got a few with D2. Kershaw composite blade Leek & Junkyard Dog 2.2, Benchmade Mini-Grip, and a Queen Country Cousin Sodbuster. The Kershaw ones are CPM-D2, but I am not sure about the Benchmade or Queen (they just say "D2"). Not sure what RC each of those have been treated to though.

I've found the edge retention to be about the same as S30V (comparing CB Leek to G10 Leek and D2 Mini-Grip to Ritter Mini-Grip). Both can be a bit more difficult to sharpen (compared to 14C28N, AUS-8, 8Cr13MoV, etc.), although with diamond stones, it's not an issue. I tried sharpening the CB Leek on natural stones once and made negligible progress after quite a few passes over the stones.

As for toughness, I've chipped up the JYDII while doing some warehouse cleanup work, but that blade edge was hitting things like copper-coated staples, copper wire/cabling, and other miscellaneous stuff while hastily cutting through boxes and other packaging. The chips were just barely big enough to feel with my fingernail, and they almost all sharpened out after one sharpening. Despite the chips, the knife was actually still very sharp and continued to work fine.

I generally don't have a problem with rust, even with my carbon steel knives. So, I can't really give good data on D2's susceptibility or resistance to rust. D2 does have a fair amount of chromium in it (just below the threshold for "stainless" classification), so it should resist corrosion almost as well as stainless steels.
 
flarp said:
I generally don't have a problem with rust, even with my carbon steel knives. So, I can't really give good data on D2's susceptibility or resistance to rust. D2 does have a fair amount of chromium in it (just below the threshold for "stainless" classification), so it should resist corrosion almost as well as stainless steels.
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As a quick add to this comment, I haven't had any real issues with rust. I sweat like a pig down here in South Texas during our 100+ degree days of summer. My knives sit in my sweat soaked pants for up to 12 hours, and I can get all kinds of steel to rust.

With my Queen and Kershaw D2 knives, all I have ever seen were little tiny spots of rust, half the size of a head of a pin. They flick off with a fingernail and most of the time don't even leave a mark. Since I rarely sweat that much during the winter months I have never seen any rust on my D2 blades with regular use and no added protection for the blades.

Robert
 
D2 is a great steel with excellent edge retention and it's really not that hard to sharpen(think s30v). I've realized over time it doesn't really roll or chip very easily and will shave hair and slice paper for a long time. Also makes cardboard look wimpy lol. I've owned a few knives in D2 as well as using and carrying them daily in all types of weather and environments with no rust issues to date. As long as you take care of it and don't leave it soaking in water and don't let it get duller than a butter knife(this may make it just a bit tough to sharpen) you should be good to go.
 
I got a bm 62 with d2 of wich i am quite dissapointed. Lots of corrosion, altough i do oil it frequently. Sharoening it is a nigjtmare. Not because it takes long, but because the lade chips. I always get micro chips, might have gotten a lemon tough
I also got a bm 51(the bigger brother of the 32) and i have no issues whatsoever with it. No rust, easy to sharpen...
 
I love D2... I have the Benchmade Bone Collector and I use ceramics to touch up the edge and then strop it on leather that usually brings it to hair popping sharpness.
 
Well i get to know D2 in a BM 806D2 and had simular questions at first.

D2 is not made for toughness (abillity to bend without breaking), that is what A2 is better for. D2 is choosen for its wear resistance. That was, what BM told me on my questions nearly 10 years ago. Well it all started with that single blade. :)
After all i have heard and read about it, i think it is best at HRC60 or higher. You wouldn´t get a remarkable tougher blade if left softer but loose its main benefits. So, what BM offers is very well made, if done right.

D2 cuts everything for long and under worse conditions. No chopper, no pry bar but in folderblade or small knife as usable and tough as any other high alloyed steel grade. As Bob Dozier once said: In the kitchen it cuts forever. Well i guess that is right.

D2 has not become my beloved steel. I found one, tougher but less wear resistant, that has calmed my searching mind. One should not worry to much about the steel in a folder or small fixed blade, if the heat treatment was made correctly.
 
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I'll echo everyone's comments. I've got a Paramilitary sprint in D2 and it is a great steel. The first time I reprofiled it, it took a bit of time - but it wasn't any more difficult than any other high-end steel. It keeps an edge very well during normal usage, and my experience has shown me that the edge tends to chip rather than deform.

TedP
 
I've read that you shouldn't take D2 down to the same thin angles that the super steels do well at. I have my D2 AFCK sharpened on my Sharpmaker with it's standard 30 degree back bevel & 40 degree microbevel. Is this too thin?
 
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