D2 vs S30v for outdoor use

STM

STM

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May 27, 2006
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So I'm about to purchase a Buck 119, what's the difference between D2, S30V and the standard steel for general outdoor use.

Thanks,

STM
 
D2 is not a stainless steel, so depending on how well you take care of your knives when not in use might be the deciding factor. D2 is a very tough steel that can take more abuse than S30V. Both are difficult to sharpen while in the field. I would lean towards D2 for general outdoor use or 420HC if want stainless.
 
I have several of the heritage series knives from a 102 up to a 120. I mainly use the 105 and it is the only one I have had to sharpen. I was concerned about sharpening it since all I heard about D2 was how hard it was to sharpen. Sharpening the 105 was not a problem at all with a Work Sharp precision adjust sharpener. I live in coastal Mississippi where the humidity is seldom lower than 60%. I have used it to clean fish and have not had any problems with rust. I clean the knife with soap and water after use and dry it off with a towel. I let it air dry for a few hours before putting it back in the sheath. I would not hesitate to recommend D2 steel. I only have folding knives in 420HC that I use for different tasks so it is hard for me to compare 420HC to D2.
 
Just my opinion but I'd go for D2 over the other options listed. Nothing wrong with Bucks 420HC but it will dull faster IMHO.

S30V has a lot of fans out there but it isn't my favorite- Especially in a larger blade. I've had too many issues with chipping and rolling the edge. Plus, I don't find it easy to sharpen.
 
Buck Knives Inc. said:
D2 is not a stainless steel, so depending on how well you take care of your knives when not in use might be the deciding factor. D2 is a very tough steel that can take more abuse than S30V. Both are difficult to sharpen while in the field. I would lean towards D2 for general outdoor use or 420HC if want stainless.
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it's interesting to see y'all take on d2s toughness. studies I've seen, from Dr. Larrins site as a ref, show it comparable to s30v and even a bit below it. crucible shows it higher around m2 toughness roughly in ft-lbs.

i always thought the large carbides in d2 limited its toughness. makes me wonder if y'alls heat treat method solves that issue in d2 and y'alls d2 is tougher?

although Dr. Larrin studies also shows 420hc as having superior toughness to both d2 and s30v. not that super toughness is really that important or needed in a 119.....
 
At the same hardness, S30V is all around the better steel. D2 can be run > 63 HRC, so a bit harder than S30V is run typically. No idea what BOS does, though.
 
I never considered D2 a tough steel. I know it is unsuitable for scandi ground knives due to low edge stability & large carbide size. From what I understand its quite brittle.

I consider neither D2 or S30V ideal for a knife like the 119. Why not go for the S35VN Pro version? Its known to be a bit tougher then S30V. I think its also a tad easier to sharpen.
 
I’m not super-picky about steels myself. Full disclosure: I only own bucks in stock (440c, 425m, and 420hc) steels. I never minded sharpening a knife, and when I’m on the boat or in the woods I want something that sharpens easily over something that lasts a bit longer. Additionally, I’m cheap and if I broke or lost a knife I’d hurt less if it was under $50. That said, my 119 is a 440c one I got second hand for about 20 dollars. My $.02. Your mileage may vary.
 
I agree with the S35vn comments, but since it wasn't asked I didn't mention.

Otherwise I'd recommend finding a 3V or 5160 Buck Compadre for outdoor uses.
 
Unless you are homesteading out in the wild all will serve well. The ability to resharpen easily will trump everything and for that 420 is best for a truly hard use knife. But a S35VN 112 out of the box had the sharpest edge I have ever seen and kept a very sharp edge after weeks of daily pocket use..
 
118 pro was one of the sharpest pointiest out of the box knives I've had. S35VN is good steel.
 
Ive been using Buck's s30v daily for the last couple of years. I find it easy to sharpen on a Norton Crystolon stone. I have not had any problems with any out of the ordinary chipping or rolling with it.
I only have 1 Buck in D2 and have not put it to very much use, so I'd rather not comment on it.
 
I don't think you can go wrong with either steel. I REALLY like my D2 Heritage series knives - 117, 119, 120. They take a screaming sharp edge and hold it. I don't have a 119 in S30V. I do have one in S35VN that I like and have used a lot. I have 110's and 112s in S30V and it's fantastic. That being said the 420HC knives work just fine and are easier to sharpen. If you have diamond stones the other steels aren't too difficult to sharpen.
 
I'm not a D2 fan, but that prejudice could be from cheaper, Chinese made D2 knives. I've always had good success with S30V (including Buck's) in folders. My 112 Slim Pro TRX has been my all around outdoor folder for a while.
 
I have Bucks in all three steels. I don't know the science or engineering stuff behind each, or BUCK's BOS heat treating, but I pretty much always grab a 420HC blade. Takes a good edge, much easier to sharpen or simply touch it up, and I enjoy that. It doesn't look like I will ever sharpen one enough to have to replace a BUCK 420HC blade. The S30V is fine, and my second choice. FWIW....
 
rival22 said:
I'm not a D2 fan, but that prejudice could be from cheaper, Chinese made D2 knives. I've always had good success with S30V (including Buck's) in folders. My 112 Slim Pro TRX has been my all around outdoor folder for a while.
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The chinese companies I'm aware of run their D2 pretty damn hard, doesn't strop well for me and is difficult to remove the burr (at least for me)... but compared to other similarly priced budget steels it's definitely an overall win for edge retention.
 
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