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D2
- Thread starter whitedoor
- Start date
D2 is notorious for being difficult to sharpen. I use diamond hones (medium to fine) then go to my emory paper on paint paddles down from 400 to 1500 grit. D2 gets exceedingly sharp, but holds an edge forever (if your using the knife for what it was intended.
Rich
Rich
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- Apr 8, 2016
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This is the sharpening subform where you should have this thread moved to by an admin...
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/maintenance-tinkering-embellishment.794/
Also if you search or just browse that subforum you'll find your answer. It's talked about often
Basically you'll want to use an abrasive that's very hard like silicon carbide, diamond or cbn. You'll also need to make sure you apex and remove the bur properly.
Basically D2 is super hard to sharpen on some sharpening stones.
The chromium carbides in the steel that give it wear resistance properties also make it hard to sharpen because they also resist the abrasion of a whetstone.
https://www.bladeforums.com/forums/maintenance-tinkering-embellishment.794/
Also if you search or just browse that subforum you'll find your answer. It's talked about often
Basically you'll want to use an abrasive that's very hard like silicon carbide, diamond or cbn. You'll also need to make sure you apex and remove the bur properly.
Basically D2 is super hard to sharpen on some sharpening stones.
The chromium carbides in the steel that give it wear resistance properties also make it hard to sharpen because they also resist the abrasion of a whetstone.
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- Feb 28, 2011
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- 27,451
D2 is kind of notoriously obnoxious to sharpen. In the past it has been suggested that a fitting tagline for the steel would be, "D2: Takes a mediocre edge, then holds it."
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- Jun 29, 1999
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- 9,841
Depends on the heat treat and geometry, as well. I like Benchmade's D2 very much -- seems to have a finer grain than some D2, my Dozier K2 for instance. But the Dozier will also take a fine edge and hold it for a long time. Diamond hones work well on D2 (well, on any steel). I don't go beyond a DMT 600 grit (red/fine) with D2.
Silican carbide or diamond 400 to 600 grit, will get you a good working edge.
Just make sure you raise a burr.
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- Feb 14, 2019
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How does it sharpen on the KME? I've been looking into getting some D2 blades but if they're a pain to sharpen I might avoid them...
Ajack60
Platinum Member
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- Apr 21, 2013
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- 8,476
D2 does fine on the KME, I've got a couple that I use the KME to sharpen. I use the diamond stones. Finish with a strop and D2 will get very sharp.
Course diamond to set bevel, then medium (if you have one) and go as far as 600 grit at most, you want a rough edge to let those big chunky carbides do their thing.
It is possible to mirror polish D2, it takes forever and is basically pointless though, much like polishing high V steels.
It is possible to mirror polish D2, it takes forever and is basically pointless though, much like polishing high V steels.
Just sharpened my D2 Cutjack the other day now that I think about it.
I use a lansky mount system and used 60 grit extra course diamond, 280 grit medium ceramic (the orange/blue one) then 600 grit fibe diamond. That gave it a sharp working edge but not shaving. Last step I actually went to the basic Lansky turn box and gave it 10 strokes on the brown rods, that’s also how I maintain D2. Edge now shaves hair.
Also be careful not to go too acute, the large carbides can make it prone to chipping, I find 40 degrees works best.
I use a lansky mount system and used 60 grit extra course diamond, 280 grit medium ceramic (the orange/blue one) then 600 grit fibe diamond. That gave it a sharp working edge but not shaving. Last step I actually went to the basic Lansky turn box and gave it 10 strokes on the brown rods, that’s also how I maintain D2. Edge now shaves hair.
Also be careful not to go too acute, the large carbides can make it prone to chipping, I find 40 degrees works best.
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2007
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- 19,226
I can get it hair whittling sharp.
I only have Queen's D2, but I've had to do full regrinds on all 4 of my blades to get the thickness where I want.
It takes more work than simple steels like 1095, etc. But I find the edge retention pleasing once there. It holds a working edge longer....
I only have Queen's D2, but I've had to do full regrinds on all 4 of my blades to get the thickness where I want.
It takes more work than simple steels like 1095, etc. But I find the edge retention pleasing once there. It holds a working edge longer....
Takes a bit more time, so either be prepared for that or start with a coarser stone. Beyond that it's the same principal as any other type of steel, each one is unique in it's characteristics so just pay attention and you will be fine.
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- Mar 2, 2014
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Norton crystolon stone sharpens d2 without much problem,also cheap belt sander is nice solution,i dont wanna grind away too much,so when reprofiling use belt sander ,then touch it up little on stones
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For coarse edges on D2, SiC or diamond work well.
For finer edges and/or polishing D2, diamond hones and diamond polishing compounds used on smooth wood work very well. D2 takes a polished edge well, but it really needs to be done with diamond (or cbn) to hold that polished edge well, for the reasons explained below.
D2's chromium carbides can be very large, up to ~ 50 microns sometimes. That accounts for most of the difficulty in apexing it cleanly and refining the edge. A light touch is needed with an abrasive that cuts and shapes the carbides easily; this is why diamond is ideal for it. Otherwise, with lesser abrasives of aluminum oxide or natural stones, those large carbides at the edge will more likely be pushed aside or torn out of the edge, making it difficult to thin the apex without damaging it. That's what makes it challenging to take beyond a 'decent working edge', if one isn't using stones or stropping media suitable for it's carbides.
For finer edges and/or polishing D2, diamond hones and diamond polishing compounds used on smooth wood work very well. D2 takes a polished edge well, but it really needs to be done with diamond (or cbn) to hold that polished edge well, for the reasons explained below.
D2's chromium carbides can be very large, up to ~ 50 microns sometimes. That accounts for most of the difficulty in apexing it cleanly and refining the edge. A light touch is needed with an abrasive that cuts and shapes the carbides easily; this is why diamond is ideal for it. Otherwise, with lesser abrasives of aluminum oxide or natural stones, those large carbides at the edge will more likely be pushed aside or torn out of the edge, making it difficult to thin the apex without damaging it. That's what makes it challenging to take beyond a 'decent working edge', if one isn't using stones or stropping media suitable for it's carbides.
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- Dec 21, 2006
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Curious as to the knife in question. There is one company out there who makes knives in D2 and certain models of their knives are simply a PAIN to sharpen. But it has nothing to do with them being D2 tool steel, but rather the MASSIVE edge geometry.
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- Feb 14, 2019
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LOL, I bet I know who you are talking about. Does sharpening them void the warranty?
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I have. It didn't work until I used the diamond belts. And it sharpened them but the belts were worn out after. Expensive lesson. If you do it run it very slow and use water or some kind of lube. Else those diamond belts will be toast.
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- May 6, 2018
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I use an extra coarse diamond plate to apex and a home made leather strop wheel on a bench grinder. takes a couples minutes to get surgical sharp. Plywood wheels also works good loaded with green compound. Have to be careful not to burn the edge and the secret is to use almost no pressure. But the results are crazy sharp.