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Dagger sharpening angle
- Thread starter Temper
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,516
Temper,
It's a bít hard to tell what angles are possible on the very narrow blade, but I'd probably go for 20 degrees. You'll be able to get it very sharp, yet still have a fairly robust edge.
Bo Hansen
It's a bít hard to tell what angles are possible on the very narrow blade, but I'd probably go for 20 degrees. You'll be able to get it very sharp, yet still have a fairly robust edge.
Bo Hansen
- Joined
- Apr 27, 1999
- Messages
- 6,117
Normally I take a blade and reprofile it to the lowest angle I can reasonably achieve. On a thick blade that might involve a sharpening an area close to a quarter inch wide. This may sound extreme to some people, but it is a lot more conservative than what I would do as a teenager. Back then I would completely regrind every blade and give it a modified hollow grind.
Rather than that approach (which maximally impacts the blade finish) I would suggest the opposite approach. Start by sharpening the blade with your coarsest hone at the 30 degree setting (for minimum cosmetic effect) and see how you like the look and sharpness. Try cutting some representative materials such as cloth. For a 30 degree angle the coarse hone will leave the most effective edge. If you don't like the way that the blade cuts then advance to the 25 degree setting and retest. I would work my way down towards the 17 degree setting and stop when I was satisfied or when I ran out of patience. If I got down to 17 degrees I might consider going to a little finer hone for finishing.
This approach might seem like it wastes effort, but it really doesn't. You do not need to remove any more material to get down to 20 degrees by this method than you would just starting there. You just remove the material in steps.
Rather than that approach (which maximally impacts the blade finish) I would suggest the opposite approach. Start by sharpening the blade with your coarsest hone at the 30 degree setting (for minimum cosmetic effect) and see how you like the look and sharpness. Try cutting some representative materials such as cloth. For a 30 degree angle the coarse hone will leave the most effective edge. If you don't like the way that the blade cuts then advance to the 25 degree setting and retest. I would work my way down towards the 17 degree setting and stop when I was satisfied or when I ran out of patience. If I got down to 17 degrees I might consider going to a little finer hone for finishing.
This approach might seem like it wastes effort, but it really doesn't. You do not need to remove any more material to get down to 20 degrees by this method than you would just starting there. You just remove the material in steps.
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2003
- Messages
- 284
Well, I think for that knife, just lay it on the stone (freehand) and sharpen the ENTIRE bevel...I think.
Anyway, where did you get that beauty? Been looking for that one for a while..
Anyway, where did you get that beauty? Been looking for that one for a while..
Thanks for the replies guys.
Ivan I got it from a guy in New Zealand. n ( http://www.nzknives.co.nz/black.htm ) The thing is, mine is one of a few that were done all black. I think I may go with the 30, 25 suggestion as I can always take a little more off if necessary.
Ivan I got it from a guy in New Zealand. n ( http://www.nzknives.co.nz/black.htm ) The thing is, mine is one of a few that were done all black. I think I may go with the 30, 25 suggestion as I can always take a little more off if necessary.