Damascus patterns for power hammer?

J

Jason Fry

Joined
Jun 5, 2008
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I've finally gotten comfortable with both forge welding and the use of my power hammer. I've done layered billets up to 175. I've done three or four twist billets, and also did a multibar opposing twist with two bars. I just did my first raindrop, too soon to tell on that one, as I may not have drilled the holes deep enough.

What other patterns can be accomplished with only a power hammer, no press? Care to share techniques?
 
Interesting question. Since I only have a press and no power hammer, I can only speculate. I can't see why any non powder metal (i.e non canned) damascus can't be fabricated using only a hammer. Any design pressed in with press dies could be pressed in using the hammer and the proper die. This leaves us with the powdered metal in a can. I have never tried using a hammer to compress a can or heard of anyone else doing so. I assume with enough practice and effort it could be done but it might be cheaper to buy a press.
Keep us informed of your progress.
Jim A
 
Have you ever seen Julian Antunes on Instagram all he uses is a power hammer he built, at least when I asked probably 2 years ago. His work is incredible. I've done canister it was fine. Maybe D DevinT Will chime in.
 
Try some multi-bar or composite patterns. They can be done with a smaller hammer. It will require considerable skill to do them right.

Hoss
 
Ladder pattern is also a simple one to do. Just like raindrop, you want the groves/holes to go 1/3 the way through the billet. Less and it may not show well, more and you may accidentally connect opposite sides and have a hole or weak spot in the billet.

As Hoss suggested, try a snake pattern center billet ( Viking dagger ) and a four twist composite bar ( Turkish Twist).

You can also experiment with accordion fold billets.
 
Good ideas. I still want to mess with W's a little to see how the hammer does on them. Since drawing out is what the hammer is good at, I do like the idea of the multi-bar stuff. Make a bunch of 1/2" twist bars and weld a group of them together. The one bar down the middle with a fishmouth tip of two outside bars sounds cool too. Have thought about 4 way multi bar, then accordion or tile, but IDK that I'm there yet.
 
Ill add on to Stacy. Mark on bar where you want each knife blade. One section can be ladder another cut x"s into the surface and do a take on Fisk's pattern. Choose a point on center top to start blade and cut diagonals down to edge .
 
Good point. There are many variations of ladder pattern. X's angled lines, crosshatch, etc. Plus, you can have two or more patterns on the same billet for the upper and lower bevel areas.

I used a deep letter stamp to put S and A all over the upper bevel area of a Japanese blade blank in 500+ layer damascus. I then ground it flush, ground in the lower bevel and finished the blade. When done and etched, the letters S and A showed in the pattern. I have seen the same done with a stamp made in a shape they wanted in the damascus pattern. This is basically the same as ladder pattern done by stamping the divots and grinding to flush.

On another blade, I carved a flame pattern in the billet with a carbide ball burr. I then forged it flat and ground the blade. The flame pattern showed in the upper bevels, but was gone in the lower bevel area because I didn't cut it deep enough.
 
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