Damn Recurves!

Status
Not open for further replies.
JTR357

JTR357

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2007
Messages
14,039
I like the way they look.I like the way they cut.I don't like that it takes me 5X times(or more) longer to put a razor edge on them with my sharpmaker,by using only the corners.I have the diamond tri-stones too.I'm seriously considering selling all my recurves,just for that one reason.
Awhile back I posted that I bought a new damascus blade for my BM635.I've been working that edge for countless hours & I can't seem to get it perfect.I'm watching my form.I've used the sharpie technique & I still can't get it just the way I want it.It'll cut standing paper,but won't shave hair.If it doesn't shave hair,it's no good in my eyes.I'm not looking to whittle hair,just shave it.

I know there are "die hard" recurve lovers here & I don't mean to insult their favorite blade.It's just my limited sharpening capabilities that is bringing this on.

You guys got any fresh tips for me? I've read just about all of them regarding this matter.Do you think I'd be better off using rounded rods,like the ones in A.G. Russell's for sharpening recurves?

Sorry for the whine.I'm just so damn frustrated sharpening this knife.
 
I hate recurves also! i used to own several Khuks but found that getting a sharp edge on them is a major pain. I've used belt sanders to wheel sharpeners and everything in between and have never gotten them to hair popping sharp.
 
One of the issues I find with recurves is that the angle isn't consistent throughout the edge. For instance, the edge might be thinner in the inward curve and thicker on the outward curve. I remember doing a trade with CL01 and he sharpened a Benchmade 710 that I traded him for. He did an excellent job at it and when I received it the edge was consistent at one angle. I was able to sharpen it on the flat side of my stone because of that.
 
JTR357 said:
Do you think I'd be better off using rounded rods,like the ones in A.G. Russell's for sharpening recurves?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is precisely what you should do. I have a round A.G Russell ceramic that came from one of his sharpening systems and its basically all I use to sharpen my recurves and I can get them all hair whittling sharp. Give it a shot before you call it quits on recurves. :D
 
theonew said:
Yes, that is precisely what you should do. I have a round A.G Russell ceramic that came from one of his sharpening systems and its basically all I use to sharpen my recurves and I can get them all hair whittling sharp. Give it a shot before you call it quits on recurves. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks,I figured the rounded part is at least a little wider than the corners on the sharpmaker.They're not that expensive either.I'll give it a shot.
 
I would just get the replacement rod for 10 bucks and skip the sharpmaker. Once you've learned to sharpen a recurve freehand all other knives will be a piece of cake to sharpen :D
 
Kaizen1 said:
One of the issues I find with recurves is that the angle isn't consistent throughout the edge. For instance, the edge might be thinner in the inward curve and thicker on the outward curve. I remember doing a trade with CL01 and he sharpened a Benchmade 710 that I traded him for. He did an excellent job at it and when I received it the edge was consistent at one angle. I was able to sharpen it on the flat side of my stone because of that.
Click to expand...

I've noticed the same thing regarding consistency of the edge on all recurves.
Like I'll get the belly razor sharp,but not the edge toward the tip.
 
jtr, all you have to do is send me your recurve and i'll fix you up. i have the equipment to do recurves and get them scarry sharp using the paper wheels. all you have to do is pay the shipping both ways.
 
richard j said:
jtr, all you have to do is send me your recurve and i'll fix you up. i have the equipment to do recurves and get them scarry sharp using the paper wheels. all you have to do is pay the shipping both ways.
Click to expand...

Hey Rich,Sounds like a plan.Thanks for the generous offer.:):thumbup:
Would you be able to sharpen them at a 15-20 degree angle,so I could touch them up myself later?I don't have much of a problem touching them up.It's just removing a lot of steel,I'm having the problem with.I've touched up my 710 on the fine stones no problem,as long as I don't let it get dull.
PM me your address,OK?I've got work Tue.,so I'll get them shipped out by Wed.Morning.

Thanks,
 
I use the old Harbor Freight 1x30" to sharpen my recurves, and it does an excellent job.

The secret is to keep the edge perpendicular to the direction the belt is traveling.

Run down through the grits, finish with a leather belt with black compound.

Less than $100 for the set-up, and it'll sharpen anything you throw at it to an excellent edge.

Or just send me all your recurves, if you're sure you don't want them anymore! :D
 
I hate to say it, but if you will learn to sharpen a knife with out a crutch, any of the gizmo's out there, free hand is much quicker,and more flexible. I do understand that some simply cannot learn how to sharpen a knife. But I have never had a single student that didn't learn how in just an hour of so. (Not the sharpening, but the learning). It should only take a few minutes to sharpen any decently ground and heat treated knife.

I see a lot of recurves that aren't real recurves. WHAT? Let me explain. Most Recurves I see in the stores, and posted here on the forums are no more than a normally ground blade that has the had the edge ground away between the belly and the ricasso.
THIS IS NOT A RECURVE!!!! It's just already worn out when you get it new!

When a knife is made this way, it is totally WRONG! It is nothing more than a knife with the cutting edge worn away. Exactly as if it had been sharpened incorrectly for years You will see this on old butchers knives that were sharpened on th steel and round rocks for years, where the belly was often skipped in the quick sharpening. Now makers, both factories and Custom Makers are making knives and simply grinding the edge away to get the recurve shape. But a correctly ground recurve is much more than just the shape of the edge. This is why many of you have noticed the thick point, thin belly that sharpens well and easily, and the recurve thick again. Not wanting to get hair popping sharp.

A correctly ground recurve can be spotted by looking at the spine of the grind. It should flow in a sweeping recurve. The edge should follow this sweep in complete symmetry. If it doesn't, it is WRONG. I am convinced that many makers shouldn't offer recurves if for no other reason than they have no idea what they are for. Much less how to properly grind one.

When a recurve is properly ground and sharpened from the maker a would rod Ceramic, diamond what have you will do a fine job. The old Crock sticks do a fantastic job. I use very fine grit diamond rods in one here in the shop for touching up recurves. A three sided Hewlett Jewelstick is here on my desk. Does a great job. I don't use these on the knives coming out of the shop going to customers, these are done on the special belts I have in the shop, but and of these will split hair after picking it up of the arm by the edge alone without touching the arm it's self.

But the recurve has to be ground correctly for you to be able to do a really good job at home.

You will find that diamond hones will work much quicker with the modern hi alloy steel we commonly use these day in the modern Knife Shop. The carbides in these steels are too hard to be able to sharpen quickly with the old type stones. The sharpening media has to be harder than the carbides being sharpened.

The H. Jewel Stick can be found at most Restaurant supply houses on the net.

When properly ground, shaped and sharpened, few blades are as wicked and as aggressive as a Recurve. A recurve Bowie can take an arm or leg with a single blow. They are a Esme weapon. In an edc, the Recurve and Straight edge are the two most aggressive and quick cutting blades I know of. A Recurve straight edge is scary!

The first enemy combatant taken in sand land by an American soldier was with a Lovett Straight Edge Fighter in Desert Storm. The soldier was from Her at Ft. Hood Texas. A capt. at the time. The enemy's head was severed with the first blow. SCARY!!!

M. Lovett
e
 
An annoying thing about only using rounded rods though is that in the long run the risk of blunting the tip is a little bigger.
 
michael, i disagree with hand sharpening being faster. while you are just getting started on setting up to do 1 side of the blade, i'm probably half way done if not done and moving on to the paper buffing wheel. i used to do all my sharpening by hand years ago and i thought i was pretty fast. i have sharpened 3' machetes in a couple minutes time to a shaving sharp edge.
 
Thanks for all the great sugs. & tips everyone.:thumbup:

Michael,I learned how to sharpen on a flat Arkansas stone & have used it for 20+yrs. ,until I got the sharpmaker.It's just so much faster,not having to eye the angle with the sharpmaker.I'm just having a problem getting an even,consistent bevel throughout the whole edge.The BM 630 & 635 are real recurves.

I'm sending this one to Richard,plus a donation for his friend Frosty.

Appreciate all your helpful feedback.:)

I'm logging off now.I gotta go to work.I'll be back tonight or tomorrow.

Take care,
 
Try a different sharpener, one that's more forgiving. There are a number of diamond sharpeners out there with easier surfaces to navigate. Chef's Choice makes something called "Exact V". I have both it and the Sharpmaker and I can tell you that the sharpening posts on the Chef's Choice are much easier to use on difficult blade shapes.
 
I agree - I'll not buy anymore recurves.

I like Kershaw, but they seem to have a lot of recurves (e.g., my Storm II - which is an excellent knife except for the recurve blade). I think Kershaw would sell a lot more knives if they got away from the recurves.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top