Dan, about this 5160....

rhrocker

rhrocker

Joined
Jan 18, 2004
Messages
1,135
Got a question Sir Daniel (or anyone for that matter): I bought a supply of the larger diameter 5160 stock. I'm setting up to produce 25+ blades for my Mesquite Mistress. Each blade (finished) is roughly 1.25 tall x .25 thick x 6 long, and the tang area adds 4 inches, and is .75 tall (and still .25 thick). I plan on cutting the 5160 into lengths so that the end rough forged blade is as close to the above dimensions as possible. In fact, I need to add a little extra of the 5160 to be sure I arrive at the end result. After I have my 5160 lengths, I'll probably weld a square rod on for a handle, and get with it. I realize that the first few lengths will be trial and error, but would like to have an idea as to where to begin. Also, I'll need to figure out what to do the the drop (if any). That can go into other projects, or maybe even smaller blades, or into my big pile of damascus and clean steel pieces for canister forging later.
So, what do you think? Also, is there anything else that I should know that might be helpful concerning this particular 5160? Have we decided on forging temps, normalizing temps, HT temps and so on, or is it pretty much still experimental for the most part?
 
Don't know exactly, it's at the shop. A little of an inch though. I'll look at Dans site and see if it's there.
 
rhrocker said:
Don't know exactly, it's at the shop. A little of an inch though. I'll look at Dans site and see if it's there.
Click to expand...

Ok, it's 1.207". Also, Dan has some info there on HT that I failed to read, so I'll go have a look at it now.
 
Robert, I just checked mine, its around 1 3/16. I forged out a 4 1/2" long piece playing with the new press. When I stopped it was 3/8 X 1 1/4 X 11". I would think if you started with a 3 1/2" long piece you will get what your after. If your going to forge the blade to shape you could get by with even less.
 
Well, it's not 5160, but I use a lot of 1" round W1.

A 3" section of 1" round gives me a 7-8" fighter blade that's around 1/4" at the ricasso, 1.125-1.25 wide, and 3.5-4" of tang.

I'm talking finished dimensions after grinding, not simply after forging.

:)
-Nick-
 
Well from a volume standpoint about 2.3 inches would give the dimensions you specified. This is not taking into account any tapers or bevels so I would think that would give you plenty of material even if you were to just forge to the dimensions given and then did stock removal to get the profile and bevels. From Nicks results, this also seems inline since he uses smaller stock. Not that I would consider myself I knifemaker....just going on the volume. Good luck!

Ryan
 
Ok guys, thanks. Looks like I'll start with a 3.5" just to be safe, then a 3". Like Raymond says though, if I try and forge the blank out completely (instead of making a bar, then stock removing), I could probably get by with less.

Appreciate it!
 
I just weld the whole piece onto a handle and start forging knives off the end. That way I can utilize all of the steel and not worry about drops. I do have to adjust the size of the last knife to fit the remaining piece of steel though.
 
burke531 said:
I just weld the whole piece onto a handle and start forging knives off the end. That way I can utilize all of the steel and not worry about drops. I do have to adjust the size of the last knife to fit the remaining piece of steel though.
Click to expand...


Doh! I forgot to say that's what I do!

I get my W1 in 12' long rods, then cut them down to 3-4' lengths. Forge the stock on one end flat and then start forging the blades out.

Thanks for pointing that out Bill :)
-Nick-
 
I'm an idiot! Of course that's the thing to do! Use the entire piece, jeez. 55 YO and still growing and learning every day, and enjoying every little bit of it (amost).
 
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