Dan- Check This Out!

Thanks, Bro!

I'm definitely in. I love getting feedback from testing results like these.

I'm not sure what knife will be submitted....will have to do some more thinking...maybe a new model....?!?

Dan
 
Dan, this is a rock shooting bow I made for another thread. I had used my 09 bushcraft all week without touching the edge and had been working with hornbeam which is the hardest wood in my region (makes seasoned oak feel like birch) and it could still shave. I had battoned the crap out of it the day before splitting wood for kindling as well. Other than some sap on the blade miffing up the polish it was almost the same as when it started.



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P.S. the "stone" bow shoots rocks very hard:D
 
Wow....fascinating bow. Thanks for sharing the pics.

I love all things bushcraft and am definitely on the learning side of the fence. Glad the knife is working out for you!

Dan
 
Thanks amflud- I always hear people talking about 3v being hard to sharpen and polish but I really don't notice any difference from other carbons like 1095 and 01. The polish in that pic was also covered in sap so it's a lot shinier than the pic looks. and only took about 5 minutes per side when I first received the knife. The big difference I notice with 3v (at least Dan's) is that you can't roll or chip the edge, even on a scandi. I have put that knife, and my other two Koster Bushcrafts through the wringer and have never seen the slightest bit of damage.
 
Here are some other things I have made with my Koster Bushcraft.

This is an Atlatl (spear thrower) made out of seasoned maple. My state doesn't allow deer hunting with atlatl but I hunt rabbit with atlatl every fall. Another member (Acutus) can hit a paper plate at 50 yards regularly! I hate practicing with him.:D

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This is a catfish spear carved out of bone. If you have never carved bone, please believe me when I say it will test the best of knives in edge retention. The bone harpoon in this design detaches to avoid damaging the spear shaft as the fish thrashes. The main section of the spear is 10 feet long but is a "break-down" style so that it could fit in my car easier. After carving the harpoon my Koster Bushcraft needed to be sharpened. By comparison, most of my 1095 and o1 knives would need two or three sharpenings during the carving. Bone is easier to carve if you soak it but I choose not to because I like the feel of carving such a hard media.

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And here is the joint that allows me to break down the main section of the spear.

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This Squirrel stick was carved 100% with my Koster Bushcraft. It is made of seasoned maple and started out as a 4in round branch with a kink in one end. The knife was able to do all this carving without being sharpened!

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This is my favorite Firebow. It is made of Red Cedar and has great color and the string is made of Dogbane. I used my Koster Bushcraft to fell the branch (cross grain baton), split branch (baton) carved the notches and shaped the spindle. Not only did it do all this without needing to be sharpened afterward but it could still shave hair!

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Awesome pics and write-up!


I attended a Primitive Skills weekend of workshops a couple years ago in Missouri. Had a GREAT time. Learned all about the atl-atl....madeblowdarts....carved a box and an arrow and hunted with it....just a blast.




On the subject of the bushcraft knife - you guys have any opinions on what knife I should submit? new one? bushcraft model? maybe a more polished version?

Dan
 
I think your standard model is great. More Bladeforums members probably own it than any other maker's "bushcraft" model. The only thing I can think of to change would be to sharpen it better than the ones from the knife runs so it would compete better. If its hair splitting sharp when they get it they may be able to get through all the testing without needing to sharpen it at all. Now that would be awesome!
 
I agree on what MD 25v has to say. I have owned three or four Koster Bushcrafters and they take quite a bit to get really sharp - once they get there - they are unsurpassed - but getting them there (especially with 3V) is a chore.

Great knives.

TF
 
Task 4 is Ease of sharpening, 3V will not do well in that task unless the idea is that not needing to be resharpened makes the knife easy. . . The criteria for that task need to be defined.
 
Since every knife gets sharpened between each task, there's no way getting around it. I am considering sending along a diamond hone so that those who want to use it can. With a diamond hone, it sharpens up just like any other steel.



I'm considering sending a BushMaster instead. I have tons of testing results from the Bushcraft....maybe the BushMaster would be something new to look at...and would be great to get more feedback on the design.

Dan
 
Md 25v said:
This Squirrel stick was carved 100% with my Koster Bushcraft.
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How cute, looks like he's taking a little nap. What do you need a squirrel stick for? Do you eat them? Did you eat the squirrel in this pic? Don't get bent out of shape by my questions. I'm actually curious and not trying to make any sort of point. I know they're vermin. Just wanna know if you eat 'em or knock 'em off for sport. If just for fun then c'mon over to my place. I've got a pack of them who've taken over the rafters in my garage ceiling, and they poop and pee all over everything--well, all over whatever's left that they haven't torn to shreds for their nests. Crazy buggers have even chewed through those thick hard plastic gas canisters. On occasion I'll find on the floor parts of their bodies that have been torn off... severed! Turf wars, I assume. So far I've cleaned up a hind leg, a tail, and a head:eek:! Gruesome stuff. They're yours if you want them.;)
 
Yeah, we eat them. Personally I don't care for squirrel unless its soaked in milk first to take some of the greasiness out of it. I Much prefer rabbit for table fare. Now my dad likes the squirrel better so most of the ones I kill get skinned and given to him. I keep all the tails though because I dye them and use them for fly-tying materials. They make a great caddis emerger fly. The squirrel in that pic was also use in an experiment to make gut cord. The intestine was split, washed, and dried. Then it was twined into reverse wrap cordage. Here is the vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tLJRNZDTXI
Pretty much every part of him was used.
 
Fascinating! I might've missed it in the vid, but how long is an average squirrel intestine before and after splitting/drying/processing?
 
I have only done it twice and both times I have broken it accidentally a couple times before the drying was finished. I would estimate 45-50 inches but you can't quote me on it. It is VERY strong once it is dried but it shrinks a bit as well.
 
Since this thread came back up I have to ask....
Dan, have you decided what knife your gonna enter in the bushcraft challenge?
 
I don't know yet....still thinking about it.

Dan
 
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