dark blotch on undyed leather

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Aug 21, 2011
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I've came to the final step on an undyed knife sheath (treated with neatsfoot oil). I was putting a coat of sno-seal on and heating up the leather with a hair drier. during the process I noticed a dark blotch that was not there before. I tried to wet the hole sheath but it is now waterproof because of the sno-seal applied. I'm not sure what caused this (water or maybe overheat the wax). Would any one have suggestions how to get rid of it?

Thanks, John
 
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How did you apply the neatsfoot? I've had this happen and realized that the loaded dauber applied the oil unevenly. This can happen with a dauber saturated in dye too. I've gone to dense sponges (the big yellow horse sponges from Tractor Supply cut into pieces are great) and I dab them to remove excess oil or dye before application.

Sno-Seal is a beeswax compound isn't it? I could be wrong. Not sure how to remove it in any case. I scrapped the back.

Hopefully someone can help. Dave, you reading this?
 
When I applied the neatsfoot,(two days ago) oil I used a dauber but not saturated. The leather was an even tone before I applied the wax and heated it. I have been thinking (stressing) about the possible causes and maybe when I was applying heat it caused the pores of the leather to open up and release some of the neatsfoot oil. I am hoping in 24 hours the blotches will go away.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks, John
 
Relax. They most probably will go away or diminish greatly as the oil levels out. If the dark spot is a result of the wax finish, it may take longer.

Paul
 
Thanks Anthony and Paul,
It seems like the blotch is starting to lighten up a little. I noticed that when working with undyed leather it will show every flaw. It looks vary nice as a final product tho. The welt burnished vary nicely using Pauls dvd advice using saddle soap and water (thanks Paul). I found a great way to use a burnishing cloth. I started using a piece of blue jean material with saddle soap but the soap made blue come out onto the leather. So I found a pair of cheep white canvas gloves, put it on and rubbed the welt. It worked great, I didn't even have to hold the cloth, it was already on my hand :)
Paul, I recieved your new folder dvd, looks great.
Thanks, John
 
When oiling I've found it better to use a brush rather than a duaber. I use an 1 1/2" paint brush. Seems like the dauber concentrates the oil and you get splotches. Also helps to warm the oil first. You'll get a more uniform coverage and the time it takes for the oil to "set" won't be as long. Darkmatter glad your splotch is evening out. sometimes it just takes time.
 
Thanks. You bet! Should of mentioned I warm the oil using a crock pot.
 
Here ya! I just got a little cheapie from Kmart. $10. Doesn't even have a switch. Plug it in and unplug it.
 
My way for heating is more than just a little red necked, but I put my bottle of Neatsfoot Oil(still in the bottle) in a 5 gallon bucket. I then heat the bottle by submerging it in hot tap water. Takes a few minutes but it gets the oil up to around 120F fairly easily.

Chris
 
Dang Chris I thought you were gonna say something like I put it in a can and heat er up with a torch!
 
Lol I only do that if I need to boil it. Sheaths seem to like the 120 degrees better. :rolleyes:

Chris
 
Um... I use the microwave, is that bad? I don't use much so I keep a little from the jug in a small plastic container. Nuke it for 20 seconds and it's good. Same thing with pre heating canola for 1084 ht.
 
Yeah Strig buddy I use to do it that way too. Till it blew up one time. Man did that make a mess. I got fired from the microwave.
 
I have done it with a double boiler deal too. Oil in a glass jar. Glass jar in a pot of water on the stove. But the dedicated crockpot is the way to go.
 
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