Darkening the Etch on Damascus

B

bunghole

Joined
Jul 6, 2005
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206
I completed my first Damascus attempt (1095/15N20) and used ferric chloride for the etchant and it didn't come out nearly as dark or contrasted as I would have liked. Any tips on getting it darker, especially now that the scales are attached?

Here is a pic...

DSCF2014.JPG


Thanks!!
 
Since you've already glued up the scales, it's going to be more difficult no matter what you do. You might try masking off the scales and using a cold bluing solution on the blade to bump up the contrast a bit. After the bluing is done, make sure to go back over the highs with a hard backed 2000 grit or so paper to clean up the shiny bits and further enhance the contrast.

-d
 
I've been where you are. I know you don't want to hear it, but you'll never get it right trying to do it with the scales on. There will always be a line of demarcation somewhere visible, and it will just look worse every time you look at it. I also noted that you already have your mark on the blade... which will become an area that is tougher for you to finish once the re-etch is done.

If you're going to do it, do the job right and cut the scales off. Otherwise, leave this one alone and move on to the next project.

As an aside, the way to increase the contrast is to increase the time in the etchant. I generally leave mine in for about an hour uninterrupted. Your milege may vary.

- Greg
 
Did you polish off the oxide residue that is left from etching? You could cold blue the piece and with some 2000 grip paper polish the high spots.
 
What i do is dip the blade in the solution as close to the handle as possible, leaving the handle out of course..What i cant get submerged i wrap in a paper towel soaked in the solution.It works pretty well.
 
Thanks for all the tips!

Is there anything I can use as a resist along with masking that would protect the scales? On that note, what will cold bluing or ferric chloride to to the scales/spacer? The scales are finished with CA.

Thanks!
 
once a knife is finished quit messing with it, you should have dealt with finishing the blade before you added the scales. Start a new one, etch it for a while wiping off the oxide sludge every 5 minutes until the last 15 minute etch. Leave the oxide on from the last etch and boil in a baking soda/water solution for a half hour to set the oxide. Rinse, dry and oil THEN add your scales

_page
 
sunshadow said:
once a knife is finished quit messing with it, you should have dealt with finishing the blade before you added the scales. Start a new one, etch it for a while wiping off the oxide sludge every 5 minutes until the last 15 minute etch. Leave the oxide on from the last etch and boil in a baking soda/water solution for a half hour to set the oxide. Rinse, dry and oil THEN add your scales

_page
Click to expand...

This:thumbup: As a maker, I feel you should be in the pursuit of excellence and improvements on every blade. In my eyes there are only 2 choices, leave it like Page says, or strip off the scales and etch it again the way Page mentions.

I made the mistake of etching my only damascus blade before bringing the scales to their finished state and lost the etching on the tang. Luckily I only had them tightly pinned and was able to take them off and re etch the blade. In that pursuit of excellence you get little lessons with each knife that comes off your bench:thumbup:

If it is any consolation, the knife looks pretty good with just the texture and it will patina over time.
 
If one were adventurous, one would immerse the whole knife into the etchant. One would also be aware that doing so might stain the scales or contaminate the etchant.
 
Emersing the whole knife is a bad idea. You don't want to acidify the wood, as this would continue the oxidation of the metal long after the knife was removed from the etchant.

Seriously, don't try to take half measures. I can tell you how to make an etch resist (equal parts beeswax and asphaltum), but that's just another half measure. If you really want to do this, do it right.

As Unky Gumbi noted, I think the blade looks fine as it is. You really don't need to mess with it.

For future reference though, one other trick I use is to take one of the cut off pieces of the billet, sand it down to 800 grit, then do a trial etch with it. That way I know what to expect (and how to get the expected results) when I etch the real blade.

- Greg
 
I think I will take the suggestions and just leave it. I planned it to be a user for myself and I think I will just start using it around the kitchen and let it patina and develop some character as we go.

Thanks all!
 
If the wood is stabilized it won't be soaking up the acid and the acid is still going to be neutralized in the manor described above. Also if there is a proper moisture barrier it won't reach the tang. I'm not saying it's a great idea, but if a person were about to "give up" on a knife, it might be worth a try.
 
For me to totally give up on a knife I would have to have really screwed up the steel in some way. When it comes down to it reputation is worth more than a set of scales, or a handle block.
 
One thing to remember about doing a etch test on a scrap piece is a non heat treated piece WILL NOT etch the same as a heat treated piece.
 
If you are going to try and re-etch with the scales on (which I would not do) paint a couple coats of clear fingernail polish on the front of the scales.Let it dry and dip the blade no more than where the fingernail polish has covered.When done etching a few swipes of acetone will remove the fingernail polish.Good luck!
 
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