Dave the Norseman on how to time a slipjoint on the Rupple Jig and without one

Very interesting. This is the first time I've seen how those work, although I've yet to really look into it.

So is it essentially to make sure the back-spring is flush with the handle no matter which of the three positions the blade is in? He was kinda jumping over those number readings and what they meant a bit to fast for me.

Thanks for sharing this here, I wasn't aware of his channel.

~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Some older vids of some of the older knives I made)
 
C coldsteelburns

Right it gives you a reference from the zero position as to what needs to be adjusted so the spring is flush in all three positions.

The numbers he gave are just where you want to be when almost done. Those numbers will change as you take tiny bit off the tang and the kick to get it perfectly flush. On my Rupple Jig when complete I am at Zero when open, and .002" +- when flush in all positions.

That is due to no pressure being on the spring. When pressure is put on the spring it is .000" in all positions.

There is a version of the jig that puts the spring in final tension and you can then set adjust the tang to .000" on the jig.
 
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Calipers measuring between the pivot pin and back of spring works just fine. And calipers have many uses unlike a dial indicator for the average joe.
 
Randy3000 said:
Calipers measuring between the pivot pin and back of spring works just fine. And calipers have many uses unlike a dial indicator for the average joe.
Click to expand...

Sure you can use a caliper or dial indicator. Many of us have both due to them being so inexpensive.

Having a dedicated jig makes things more consistent and quicker and far less fiddly.
 
I don't use one of these...probably because I don't understand where the time savings is,

So the dial indicator gives you a visual readout, you still have to take the parts over to the grinder and remove material, reassemble them into the jig, recheck with the dial etc. etc. and do this repeatedly until the 3 positions are where you want them.

so except for an easy numerical verification, all the grinding and fitting work is the same as I see it.

what am I missing?
 
HSC /// said:
I don't use one of these...probably because I don't understand where the time savings is,

So the dial indicator gives you a visual readout, you still have to take the parts over to the grinder and remove material, reassemble them into the jig, recheck with the dial etc. etc. and do this repeatedly until the 3 positions are where you want them.

so except for an easy numerical verification, all the grinding and fitting work is the same as I see it.

what am I missing?
Click to expand...

There are those who mill to the line and there are those who use a digital read out on a mill. It is kinda like that.

I like how easy it is to adjust how the tip sits in relation to the spring and not having to squint and guesstimate at a line to see how much has been remove and how much more has to be removed from the tang.

It can be hard to see if you are a half of a thou high when looking at a line, only then finding it is high once peened together and then having to go in with a thin stone an attempt to make corrections to the tang.

The dial indicator will tell you what your eye sometimes has a hard time seeing
 
I can mash on things and make readings from a dial indicator like you do or a caliper like I do vary by a few thousandths. I just don't trust the reading until the two halves of the handle sandwich the blade and spring, with the bolsters attached to the liners, and at that point instead of using a measuring tool you may as well rub your thumb over the area and see what you feel.
 
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