DE Questions, Newbie.

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Jan 27, 2006
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I bought a cheapo twist to open DE razor and got a really nice shave with just hot water. I did this because I plan to eventually shave with a straight razor, and read that preping the face is pretty important, so I thought a DE would be good to start with while I played with soaps and learned to lather. I live out of a suitcase, so the DE is actually probably a better choice for now anyway, but I do have a few questions.

1.) Why might I want an adjustable razor? is it for when I miss a day or two of shaving? Or is it a find a setting and keep it there thing? Some other reason?

2.) If I do not get a twist to open, is the other option more practical? There don't seem to be many twist to turn models available. How does the other opening method work?

3.) There have been some comments on finishes flaking off, especially on some Merkur models. Are all metal parts coated or chromed, or are there some models that use just a texture finish? The Merkur Futur looks like it does not have any plating, but I am just now reading some reviews on it.

4.) Whatever material they are coated with, how slippery are those different coatings? As I understand, a light touch is almost required to get a proper shave. Which materials give the best gription for a proper hold on the razor?
 
Ok I will try answer these questions, but remember they are just my views and opinions.

1/ Most people buy adjustable razors to find the perfect setting for them, be it set it and forget it, or adjust to suit their needs for that day. I on the other hand adjust during my shave. I have a Gillette Slim, I start with the razor on 4 for the first pass, and bump it up each pass after. I find that going more aggressive with each pass gets me a closer shave.

2/ Three piece razors are cheaper to manufacture, yes there are still some cheap TTO razors still being made but the quality is lacking from what I hear. I don't own any modern DE razors, my newest razor is the mentioned Gillette Slim and it was made in 1962. There are plenty of TTO razors to be had from the 50s and 60s, if fact the were still making the Gillette Super Speed in the 80s. Once again adjustables were not as common as non-adjustable razors so there is a premium on them too, but the more common razors can be found cheap and all they need is a little cleaning most of the time.

3/ I have never owned or used a Merkur razor, but I have heard the flaking stories too.

4/ Most common coatings on razors are chrome and nickle, but there is gold and rhodium too. I had an Edwin Jagger 89L as my first DE razor, but as I moved to using vintage razors I gave the 89L away. The chrome on the 89L was absolutely flawless:eek:
 
DEs that are not TTOs are 3-piece razors. You have a handle, a safety bar piece, and the top piece. The razor gets sandwiched between the head and the safety bar, and the handle screws into the top (whose threads go through the head and the safety bar.)

I like 3-piece because it seems really solid, and there's less of a chance of anything going wrong.

Here's an image of a Mühle R89. It's a 3-piece as you can see:

MuhleR892.jpg

Photo from thesuperiorshave.com
 
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