Debating.....

[markhait]

After reading ALL the posts on KungFu Masters thread I've decided to take my sharpening to a new level also. What I'm not sure of is if I should try free hand or go right for the EdgePro.

I've tried freehand in the past, but many years ago and sucked at it. My question is: should I try free hand again, but with diamond stones (I don't have any stones anymore) or should I buy a EdgePro (Apex)? I think the price should be about the same for either, because if I buy a course, fine and extra fine diamond stone, I should be in the $100 range. The Apex is just a little more.

I'd love to free hand, but I don't want to "waste" my money on something I can't do (stones). I know I know...practice, practice, practice....To be honest, I don't know if I have that kind of patience.

Chime in please...let me have it and don't hold back! Sometimes I need a good old slap in the face!

Thanks!

 

[markhait]

By the way....almost forgot...I do have a SharpMaker. Love it, but want to take my game to the next level.

 

[db]

Before you run out and spend a lot of $, try this. Stop by any hardware store and pick up a cheap silicon carbide stone, around $10 ish. It will be most likely marked coarse/fine. The fine side of that stone is still pretty coarse and then for your finer than that stone use the Sharpmaker with those stones in the base. This set up will work just fine for free hand sharpening. Then just go do it.
Even cheaper would be get some coarse sandpaper for your coarser grits.

 

[nozh2002]

I do not think you need something in between extra coarse and extra fine. I am using 400 as a coarse and 1200 extra fine of EzeLap Diamond Products all 121 models 11" long. To make sharpening easy I made stand triangular stand - 15 degree, which helps me keep right angle - I found it easy to keep blade horisontal then keep it under 15 degree, as easy as keep it vertical using sharpmaker.

However if you need to sharpen better then you can do this on sharpmaker you do not need 1200 diamond stones - it is 9 micron abrasive and as I understand working size of Spyderco fine ceramic abrasive 6 micron. So you did not get better using 1200. I suggesting you better try some fine abrasive - like diamond powder on Medium Density Fiberboar and then see if you need diamond bench-stones.

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[Allan Molstad]

. What I'm not sure of is if I should try free hand or go right for the EdgePro.

!

My advice to any and all who ask about the many different knife sharpeners is : That once you learn to get a sharp edge free hand, then all of the many sharpening tools will work better in your hands for you.

Once you know how to do it free hand, then you can use ANY sharpener and get a good edge because, "you" will be using the "tool" to sharpen the knife, rather that you connecting your knife to the tool, with the hope it all works...

 

[Buck268]

I also support the idea to learn free hand. Not only does it make you a more adaptable and versitile edge maker, but its oh so much quicker to grab a stone, swipe your knife across it a few times to bring that razor edge back and be done, than it is to fumble around setting up this system or that system.

I learned to sharpen free hand (poorly) as a kid in Boy Scouts. Eventually got a Lansky system. That was great, got some really great edges with it but got tired of the hassle and of how slow it was. So, at first all I had was a dual grit carborundum stone; actually a good stone for rough work like machetes and axes. And a little pocket washita type stone. So I practiced and practiced on my Gerbers, my Ka-Bar, anything and everything I had (when I was bored or stuff like that). Eventually I could get a razor sharp edge quite reliably. Got a couple new knives, and decided to drop dime on some DMT stones. Got the fine and x-fine stones. They really are great, although I've found on these it works best going edge-trailing, like your stropping. Since you only need light pressure with the diamonds, and since it has the interrupted surface, stroppping motion works better. Makes it easier to keep a consistant (or consistantly varying, for convex) angle and avoids the tip getting hung up on the holes.

 

[markhait]

This all sounds pretty good. I could buy that DMT combination stone for $46 with fine/extra fine and could try my hand at it again. I really want to learn freehand, but I just hope I have the patience for it.
Do you think that fine/extrafine stone would be better than the course/fine stone?

 

[sodak]

My advice to any and all who ask about the many different knife sharpeners is : That once you learn to get a sharp edge free hand, then all of the many sharpening tools will work better in your hands for you.

Once you know how to do it free hand, then you can use ANY sharpener and get a good edge because, "you" will be using the "tool" to sharpen the knife, rather that you connecting your knife to the tool, with the hope it all works...

This is the opposite of my experience. Once I got really good using the Edgepro, I was able to take my freehand skills to the next level. The edgepro showed me the path, what a sharp edge was, and how to get there.

I'd say go with the Apex, you'll never look back.

 

[Buck268]

This all sounds pretty good. I could buy that DMT combination stone for $46 with fine/extra fine and could try my hand at it again. I really want to learn freehand, but I just hope I have the patience for it.
Do you think that fine/extrafine stone would be better than the course/fine stone?

For the majority of edge maint. you'll want the fine/xfine combo. It won't allow you to reprofile, but diamonds cut fairly fast and it will handle most sharpening jobs. I have this combo, but I would like a coarse or x-coarse diamond stone too.

 

[nozh2002]

For the majority of edge maint. you'll want the fine/xfine combo. It won't allow you to reprofile, but diamonds cut fairly fast and it will handle most sharpening jobs. I have this combo, but I would like a coarse or x-coarse diamond stone too.

With diamond sharpening fast speed, I see no difference going from coare to medium to fine and extra fine and going from coarse to extra fine right away skipping all other grids in between. For mainenance extra fine only is just fine, for reprofiling coarse or extra coarse required, so set of two this stone will cover all sharpening need, except if you want go beyond 9 micron.

Thanks, Vassili.

I think length of the bench-stone is also important. Longer - better. Best is 11" EzeLap 121 models.

 

[markhait]

I keep hearing people talk about re-profiling. What is that? Is that where you change the grind angle? Why do you want to do that anyway?
Whats with the sandpaper and a mouse pad also. Does this combination "wrap" itself around the blade when you sharpen it and so does a better job?

 

[Northerr]

I do not think you need something in between extra coarse and extra fine. I am using 400 as a coarse and 1200 extra fine of EzeLap Diamond Products all 121 models 11" long. To make sharpening easy I made stand triangular stand - 15 degree, which helps me keep right angle - I found it easy to keep blade horisontal then keep it under 15 degree, as easy as keep it vertical using sharpmaker.

However if you need to sharpen better then you can do this on sharpmaker you do not need 1200 diamond stones - it is 9 micron abrasive and as I understand working size of Spyderco fine ceramic abrasive 6 micron. So you did not get better using 1200. I suggesting you better try some fine abrasive - like diamond powder on Medium Density Fiberboar and then see if you need diamond bench-stones.

Thanks, Vassili.

WOW... did you do that knife by hand? How?

 

[nozh2002]

WOW... did you do that knife by hand? How?

Oh, no, this is Kanetsune Matagi Hunter - they were available here about year ago, but now I did not see too many of them around.

Thanks, Vassili.

 

[nozh2002]

I keep hearing people talk about re-profiling. What is that? Is that where you change the grind angle? Why do you want to do that anyway?
Whats with the sandpaper and a mouse pad also. Does this combination "wrap" itself around the blade when you sharpen it and so does a better job?

It is resharpening edge on different angle - smaller. At least this is how I understand it.

Sandpaper on mousepad make edge convex without too much troubles.

Thanks, Vassili.