Decent traditional starter slip joint

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not-too-sharp

not-too-sharp

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Jan 6, 2010
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Lately I've been realizing that most of the knives I own are pretty scary to the average non-knife person,and have even got a complaint from another worker that led to an argument that led to me getting a formal reprimand.(for an endura of all things) :grumpy:... And since I use a knife about a million times a day I really would like to have an option other than a SAK or a box cutter. I've never like the look or feel of SAKs and just plain won't buy 'em.
My budget sits at or around 55$ and I like larger two bladed styles with jigged bone.
EDIT: (One large round tip blade and one that almost looks like a miniature bowie,both with nail notches)
The problem is I don't know the name of the style I'm looking for and which brands are good.
Suggestions?
Thanks -Andrew
 
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I'd also look at the Queen amber bone in D2. The steel is better and it's a little slimmer than the Case. Might be 5-10 dollars more, but the D2 steel is worth it, if you can get it, and keep it sharp. Diamond hones are best for D2.
 
I just googled the Queen cutlery version to compare it to the Case and it's exactly what I'm looking for. The D2 sounds interesting. How's it 's corrosion resistance and edge retention?
And what steel does Case use? all I could find on their site was "surgical stainless"
My only blade steel experience is with 1095, VG-10, and Bucks 420 lol.
 
Case's Tru-Sharp stainless is very comparable to Buck's 420HC--good, solid knife steel. 1095 and VG-10 are both better, IMHO, but D2 is better than all of them for edge retention. And, it's nearly "stainless" at 11-11.5% chromium. VG-10 is stainless (about 15% chromium), and is easier to sharpen than D2, but if you get a good edge on D2, it will really last. My Queen D2 blades are real cutters. You can't go wrong with them in the $50-$60 range.
 
D2 is great stuff, but keep in mind that Queen typically ships their blades butter-knife dull, so be sure you have a diamond sharpener on hand and are prepared to re-profile the edges. More often than not, they're a no-go straight from the box.
 
Hmmmm...I'm not exactly a prodigy when it comes to profiling a blade:confused:
In fact I'd most likely do tremendous damage to the knife :(
Do any other companies use D2 or something comparable?
EDIT: I saw some bokers when I searched for trappers at knifeworks, are they good?
 
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Not that I know of, but GEC makes a nice looking trapper in 1095 with an excellent heat treatment. They're easily up there with Queen quality-wise, but they cost a bit more.


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Edit: I have no experience with Boker's trapper. Hopefully someone else will chime in on that.
 
not-too-sharp said:
You've convinced me on the Queen :D
Any reputable place online where I could get it at a good price?
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Check out Mike at Collectorknives.net. His handle is Knifeswapper on BFC. Great prices, and an even better guy.

Also, for a terrific sharpening service, go to knifenut1013 here on BFC. Jason does "miracles" with good steel like D2.
 
Black mamba, do you know much about the boker's? I really dug the Queen but I need the knife in a hurry and it sound like it would be a two or more week process. I think I'd like to try out a boker trapper (if they are good quality and come sharp) before I dedicate time and extra money into getting the Queen trapper into a functioning condition. And if I end up loving the design, next paycheck I'll get the queen and have it re-profiled, after all two knives are better than one :D
 
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Boker Tree Brand are their top of the line, and are very good. They tend to have less snap in their backsprings than American knives. If you want really sharp out of the box, you can't go wrong with Buck. Their 420HC is usually hair poppin' sharp, and American made at reasonable prices.
 
I know I'm asking an annoying amount of questions (sorry) But do you know who makes a larger trapper between Case and Boker? It seems like none of the spec I find mention blade length. Is 3 inches an uncommon length or is it possible to get with this type of knife?
 
The Case Trapper is 4 1/8" closed with the main clip blade being 3 1/4".

Wasn't it too big a knife that got you in your fix? I'd think the trapper would be plenty big for any situation -- maybe even a little too big for the work environment?
 
I'd also like to throw another brand out there, namely Boker. I have a Boker trapper in their carbon steel, and it takes and holds a wicked edge, for not alot of money. Buck has a trapper in their 420HC, albeit made in China. Columbia River Knife and Tool has a trapper, but what steel it is i do not know. So there are lots more than Case and Queen, although they too make excellent knives.
 
At that price range which is a good one that opens up a lot of choices I would suggesst taking a look at a 2 blade Case swayback in cv. One of the best made knives I have handled from a factory in a while (not withstanding the 2009 forum knife.)
 
not-too-sharp said:
Hmmmm...I'm not exactly a prodigy when it comes to profiling a blade:confused:
In fact I'd most likely do tremendous damage to the knife :(
Do any other companies use D2 or something comparable?
EDIT: I saw some bokers when I searched for trappers at knifeworks, are they good?
Click to expand...

not-too-sharp, have you thought about a Case trapper in their CV?

CV is like 1095 on vitimins. It a very good steel for edge holding, easy to resharpen, and is available in a assortment of handle materials that are quite good looking. And the fit and finish on some of the recent Case's I've seen are great.
 
I would also suggest a trapper from case. They are rather bulky and heavy knifes and I dislike how they carry in a frontpocket but nevertheless they are extremly welldesigned users when a bigger slipjoint is wanted. For me its the best large slipjointpattern. Im nowadays partial to the stockman pattern but I want them mediumsized, For a bigger knife I much prefere the trapper. It has to do with the balance between weigth, length and aviable cutting edge.

Bosse
 
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