Deciding between 2 DB Axes for Splitting Duty

M

mako20ft

Joined
Mar 23, 2014
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279
Gentleman,

I've recently purchased the 2 Vintage Plumb brand axe heads shown below. The first one weighs 3.97lbs and is 9-5/8" in length with 4-1/16" cutting edges. The 2nd weighs in at 3.49lbs and is 10-3/4" with a 3-7/8" cutting edge. Depending on which design is more suited for splitting work that axe will wear a 34" Octagon piece of Hickory from HH. The other will likely be paired with a 30"-32" piece of lumber and stay in the truck.

Do either of these appear better suited for around the wood pile than the other? I'm asking because I don't want the PIA of installing the handles only to find out one or the other was originally designed or made for splitting.

Btw, neither of the axes has a high centerline. They will each be shaving sharp with convex edges. The wood is almost entirely soft Maple (I've always called this type "Swamp Maple" when making furniture) however we took down a 3 mast choke cherry 2 years ago and the 18" lengths will need to be split. I seriously doubt any axe is capable of getting thru the cherry wood. Even our 6lb maul, which really is razor sharp, gets laughed at as it bounces off this particular wood :(

Any of your thoughts are much appreciated. I do understand the inherent danger of splitting with a DB style also so we can move past that to save a bit of time. I'd like to handle both this weekend and get started on my chores out back.




Plumb4lbDB.jpg
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Plumb35lbDB-1.jpg
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I suppose the bevel will have the most impact on splitting in this case, but as you pointed out about the center line, DBs were more strictly wood choppers. Only difference between the two is going to be weight and presumably that will help with splitting. One side will likely have a thicker edge on your DBs and you could make that your wood splitting edge - grind a more obtuse bevel.
 
Yes, normally the heavier and thicker axe will make a better splitter and the lighter and thinner axe a better general purpose user. Since the 3.5 pounder is also longer it should be a little thinner in theory, but you can look at them to compare.

Half pound is quite a difference, but since they are doubles you could also try them both with a steep grind on one side for splitting. The initial grind is more important than the centerline in terms of splitting and popping chips anyway.
 
cityofthesouth said:
I suppose the bevel will have the most impact on splitting in this case, but as you pointed out about the center line, DBs were more strictly wood choppers. Only difference between the two is going to be weight and presumably that will help with splitting. One side will likely have a thicker edge on your DBs and you could make that your wood splitting edge - grind a more obtuse bevel.
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Good advice,

I've taken the file to both. The leading edge of one end is bloody sharp with a convex set-up. The other was left with a steep(er) angle that is not as sharp however, in theory, should be more stout.

Getting back to the original question...if the 2 axe heads were yours would anyone hazard a guess which should have the 34" handle installed? Honestly, I just don't want to have to go through switching the handles if I should have known better due to their inherent design. The difference in person is substantial regards length and width. Surely (don't call me Shirley right?) they must have been designed for different end uses?
 
I would go with the first pic. The shorter overall length means it will ramp up more quickly to the eye width--meaning more apt to split and less prone to stick. Conversely the longer thinner should typically chop better.
 
I'm prejudiced because I don't really care for swamping patterns and I love western or Pennsylvania pattern double bits. Plus I don't like axes with badly worn heels and toes. I think the 2nd axe will be a better axe for either purpose, chopping or splitting.

That said, weight is important for splitting. If you're committed that one of these will be a chopper and the other a splitter then make the first one your splitter.


I seriously doubt any axe is capable of getting thru the cherry wood.
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Cherry is a problem because the bark grain runs around the wood, binding it together. It's best split green. Larger pieces should have the bark scored on opposite sides with a knife or sharp axe. Scored green cherry splits relatively easily. I'm burning split cherry in my fireplace tonight. Good hot burning wood. Plus it smells nice (save some for the smoker).
 
mako20ft said:
I've taken the file to both. The leading edge of one end is bloody sharp with a convex set-up. The other was left with a steep(er) angle that is not as sharp however, in theory, should be more stout.
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Yeah so this would be a pretty typical setup for a DB. Kind of a utility edge on one side.


mako20ft said:
Getting back to the original question...if the 2 axe heads were yours would anyone hazard a guess which should have the 34" handle installed? Honestly, I just don't want to have to go through switching the handles if I should have known better due to their inherent design. The difference in person is substantial regards length and width. Surely (don't call me Shirley right?) they must have been designed for different end uses?
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I don't think there would be an inherent handle length for them. A longer handle will get you power and a 4lb+ axe strikes me as a tool made to do its intended function until it was used up. The guy who bought a heavy axe was a guy who could swing it and wanted to get the job done. Beyond that, it's up to you. If you already do fine with a long handle and want the extra torque, then that's probably how I'd go. Splitting stubborn wood with an axe frequently can be hard on the handle (or the hang I might say) and you start getting into the right tool for the job problem. I don't think there is a significant design difference between those two, but it might take a view from the top-down to know for certain. If the heavy one has more wedge to it, closer to the bit, that's your splitter.
 
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Square_peg said:
I'm prejudiced because I don't really care for swamping patterns and I love western or Pennsylvania pattern double bits. Plus I don't like axes with badly worn heels and toes. I think the 2nd axe will be a better axe for either purpose, chopping or splitting.

That said, weight is important for splitting. If you're committed that one of these will be a chopper and the other a splitter then make the first one your splitter.




Cherry is a problem because the bark grain runs around the wood, binding it together. It's best split green. Larger pieces should have the bark scored on opposite sides with a knife or sharp axe. Scored green cherry splits relatively easily. I'm burning split cherry in my fireplace tonight. Good hot burning wood. Plus it smells nice (save some for the smoker).
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I'm with Peg on this one. I don't care for a swamping pattern.

Tom
 
Double Ott said:
I'm with Peg on this one. I don't care for a swamping pattern.

Tom
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Can you guys elaborate on why you don't like the swamping patterns? I'm not overly familiar with them since I use a single-bit forest axe for limbing, but it seems the rounded pattern would prevent damage while allowing for a slice through the limb that may ride along the edge if there is any inconsistency in the knot or your swing. Is this correct?

As well, the swamping axes seem to be very symmetrical, skewed towards center mass whereas felling axes and many others seem to have a mass in the offset center - the upper-third towards the toe. I suppose there is an advantage in limbing that the curved edge allows for a continuous cut even if you make a mistake. But I'm just guessing here since I haven't been able to compare the profiles in use.
 
The upper half of the bit faces wrong for me and my chopping style. I prefer patterns with the toe longer than the heel. I don't like the feel of an impact on a toe which sticks much above the eye of the axe. It puts a different torque on the haft and it feels inefficient to me. I like a slightly closed hang and that isn't possible on a swamper. Just a few reasons off the top of my head.
 
I guess I should have said that I don't care for the bits on the swamper you have shown us.

Here's one that has been maintained properly.

DSC00780_zps015fdd23.jpg


Tom
 
gben said:
The smartest answer of the lot. Anyone who spends months or years cutting and splitting firewood knows why splitting mauls exist.
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+1 to that. My 8.5# has earned its keep plenty of times over. (Green 24-30" oak rounds included)
 
I still prefer a 5 pound axe to a splitting maul any day. There's very little that I can't split with a 5 pound axe that I can split with an 8 pound maul. If the axe won't cut it I'm probably going to need wedges. The maul is cumbersome and clunky compared to a 5 pound axe.

That said - it does depend on your wood. I do occasionally find wood that is best split with the maul - that's why a keep a few around.


Note: I'm using a rafting pattern axe which is notably thicker in the poll than standard axes. It makes a difference for splitting.
 
Peg,

If you get a chance would you post a pic of the Rafting Axe you prefer for splitting duty? I still find the various patterns, their names and intended functions to be confusing. Also, I take it the the first axe head I've shown (the 4lb'er) is not a Swamper type however the 2nd one I've shown is?

It sounds like some opinions are the 2nd one also shows uneven wear or poor maintenance. That's interesting but probably related to the angle of the photo as the tool's cutting edges are actually rather uniform. Neither of the 2 axe heads has any appreciable wear at all. Actually, the first one looks as if it were never put on a handle...there is nothing to suggest it was ever even sharpened. One of the reasons I picked it up to begin with.

I'm "temporarily" trying it with an OAL of 35". The 2nd one hasn't gotten the handle in yet from House.



Plumb4lbDBII.jpg
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Plumb4lbDBIII.jpg
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