Defective or abused? - Need Help

DaveH · Jul 31, 2000

I just bought a used liner lock on the forums, and I have a problem.

In summary, the knife fails the even the most gentle spine whack test, I can also cause the lock to fail with light/medium steady hand pressure, and I'm not that strong.

My problem is I like the knife alot (other than how it locks), I could send it in to the factory to examine/fix, but I'm out of luck if it's been abused.

How do I tell if been abused?

Here's what I've examined: stop pin looks straight and not dented, lock area on blade does not look crumpled, dented or particularly worn. Liner seems to have the proper bend, but only engages in the first 1/3 of blade thickness, further the "swipe" marks from the liner on the blade back indicate a ragged diagonal contact line approximately 1/32 by 1/8 th of an inch.

More info: It has a slight amount of vertical blade play, I can take a bic pen cap and slide the liner 3/4 over, but when I release the liner it snaps back to the 1/3 position.
In other words the liner is not energetically seeking the far side scale, but seems "set" at 1/3 travel.

Overall condition of handle and blade is good.

In the next couple of days I'll send it back to the seller or to the company. Any opinions?

Thanks,
DaveH

[This message has been edited by DaveH (edited 07-31-2000).]

Johan · Jul 31, 2000

Well, all I can say is that a knife that fails the pine whack test is not that uncommon even among high end knives (my MTs all do it), but a knive that fails will pressure from your hand is just plain dangerous. You have a false sense of security (you think the lock will hold) and that's not good. I'd send it back or get it repaired but I wouldn't keep it like it is.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.

Normark · Jul 31, 2000

Hi Johan....

Johan Said:

""Well, all I can say is that a knife that fails the pine whack test ""

Now, is there a difference if it's a Canadian Pine or American Pine ?

ttyle Eric...

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Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom,Quality, Concealex Sheaths.

Leading The Way In Synthetic Sheathing.

Roger Blake · Jul 31, 2000

If it is only engaging 1/3 then it sounds like a factory defect. The seller should have notified you of this. I would ask the seller for your money back. Alternatively you could send it to the factory. Most will fix it or exchange it.

BTW, what make and model?

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Roger Blake

TomW · Jul 31, 2000

You don't describe anything that would indicate the knife was abused.
Assuming you got a good deal on the knife sending it back to factory seems like the best move.

SALTY · Jul 31, 2000

Depends on the brand. Some have CS that backs up the consumer and some do not!

DaveH · Jul 31, 2000

Thanks for the notes. My feeling is doesn't look abused either. I called the company, they'd be happy to look at it even though I'm not the original buyer. So I may do that haven't quire decided.

Thanks,
DaveH

sevenedges · Jul 31, 2000

That is the problem with linerlocks. THEY SUCK!! The knife was most likely not abused. Sounds like a locking problem from the company. You can send it back but it probably wont help. You will probably get the knife back in a simular manner. Later, Jeff

medusaoblongata · Aug 1, 2000

If I were you, I would alert the seller to the problem, and then, send it back to the company for warranty work. Tell the seller before you send it to the company that if the company doesn't fix it, you will want your money back from the seller. Since what you want is the knife, returning it to the seller is not what you want to do, and if the company will fix it, you have your knife; if the company won't fix it, then the seller should be responsible.

Johan · Aug 1, 2000

Eric-of course there's a difference between Canadian and American pine, the Canadian pine is much tougher stuff!

Haven't you heard of the new pine whack test? Man I gotta either stop drinking and typing or start proof-reading.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.

rdangerer · Aug 1, 2000

Originally posted by salamander:
That is the problem with linerlocks. THEY SUCK!! Jeff

Not all linerlocks suck, just about 80% of them. Benchmade and Spyderco seem to do a good job on the higher end more robust tactical versions. And you know, I don't own linerlocks by any other production makers... I've handled the others. (I will own a Microtech eventually, this or next month).

A lot of custom makers do a lousy job also. It takes precision to the thousandth of an inch to get it right, with the right tang bevel angle, right angle on spring face, right spring width and tension, exact stop pin location, a LOT has to go right. It takes the right level of dedication and devotion to get it right, and then continue to get it right in future.

Good linerlocks are plenty good in my book. Good linerlocks take some looking around to find.

Kit Carson and Chris Reeve (well, Sebenza is an integral lock, not liner) get it right. Darrel Ralphs integral is nice also. My Broadwell LDC-107 is fine. My Terzuola custom pieces are fine, although he needs to recess the locks a bit more to keep them out of my index finger's way under tight pressure.

Oh, the original question: send the damned thing back. I had to send my Spyderco Lum back, angle on tang was wrong I think, it didn't fail, but my hand pressure could cause the lock bar to wedge towards unlocking... not comforting, it went back. I haven't received my knife back, it's been 3 weeks+, but I'm confident Sal and Spyderco will come through. (If they don't for some weird reason, you'll hear about it on the forums.)

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rdangerer@home.com

[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 08-01-2000).]