Definition of "Drop Free" for Sebenzas

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I recently learned about the concept of testing a folding knife by doing a drop-free test where I believe you hold the opened knife in a horizontal position and de-activate the lock. If the blade pivot system is "smooth" then the weight of the blade will cause it to freely drop.

My question is, does that mean the blade freely drops, very fast, down to the perpendicular position? Or just that it drops at all, some amount, even if not to fully perpendicular? I have a few sebenzas that when I do this test, they go completely perpendicular, very fast. That would clearly be an example of 100% drop free. And then I have some that go most of the way, but not all of it, and kind of slow.

The reason I ask is because I'm unsure if some knives, when performed this test, maybe they don't even move a small amount and remain completely horizontal. If so, then that clearly fails the drop free test. So the knives that are in between these two extremes, is that a pass, a fail, or it considered a gradient?

And are all sebenzas supposed to drop free if reassembled properly and built to proper tolerances?
 
I think what you will find is most broken in sebenzas will probably drop free or be close to drop free no matter how you many times you reassemble it.
 
It should drop when you hold the lockbar off the blade.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BS68eyelcDK/

When the detent contacts the blade it puts pressure on it and slows down. You should be able to use use a bit of gravity /force to shut it closed the rest of the way. As the blade is not that heavy and there is usually a lot of tension in the lockbar. A flat detent may help a little but that would be debatable until someone tries it.

Maybe the ones you have, have too much lube or not lubed correctly? Search Tim reeves sebenza on YouTube and follow his directions and put on about the same amount or less lube on. Only blade side, not scale side. Could just be dirty too.
 
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I believe there is no pass/fail, that is if it doesn't drop free, it's not a problem, just different.

The knife is meant to be opened with the thumb stud, not by releasing the lock bar tension and opening by "dropping free" or with a flick.
 
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Definitely not a pass/fail either way. Some do. Some don't. Have had both and none were problematic in the least. I do prefer drop free though.
 
Sorry I don't think I was clear in my OP.

I know when a knife 100% drops free. That's easy to tell. And I know when a knife 0% drops free - because it would not move even a small fraction when lockbar tension is released. That's all easy.

How about a knife, held horizontal, pointing to the 9 o clock position, that when released, drops slowly down to around 7 o clock. Is that considered drop free? Or is it a binary pass/fail, whereby the knife either drops completely down to 6 o clock, fast and smooth, or it doesn't, and it "fails" the test. I'm not sure if gradients are considered or if it's purely either 100% drop free, or it's not drop free.
 
Sorry I don't think I was clear in my OP.

I know when a knife 100% drops free. That's easy to tell. And I know when a knife 0% drops free - because it would not move even a small fraction when lockbar tension is released. That's all easy.

How about a knife, held horizontal, pointing to the 9 o clock position, that when released, drops slowly down to around 7 o clock. Is that considered drop free? Or is it a binary pass/fail, whereby the knife either drops completely down to 6 o clock, fast and smooth, or it doesn't, and it "fails" the test. I'm not sure if gradients are considered or if it's purely either 100% drop free, or it's not drop free.

For me, at 9 to 6 or more is drop free. If it stops at 7, it is not a drop free knife. It either drops free or it doesn't. There are no gradients to consider.
I've got some CRK's, ZT's, Shirogorov's that drop free, some start to drop, but then stop at various positions, so they fail at free drop.
Personally, I don't care for a blade that drops free, been bit twice not paying attention and looking at something else. I have my Inkosi, 25 and Umnumzaan adjusted to where you have to close it by hand.
 
I don't think any of my Sebenzas are "drop free" but I don't care. I really don't know what purpose the test has other than to say whether it drops free or not, and its only value is in whether you prefer your knives one way or the other. I can make many knives one way or the other by how much I tighten the pivot.
 
I have handled Sebenzas where the owners have done their own adjustments to the washers chasing this strange expectation of a free dropping blade (thanks apostle p...:rolleyes:), what they didn't seem to detect is they have introduced side to side play in the process....a tight factory fit, that after years of carry may allow free dropping is what I prefer. Tinkering with the washers, I suggest don't do it, or at least stipulate at the time of sale that the washers have been molested.
 
I love the "Super tight tolerances" statement that's followed by hand sanding washers smooth, basically eying it. The one of few parts where this precision could matter a whole lot but really is the most eyed part of the process.
 
I prefer my knives to not drop free (as Ajack60 says you can get bit and I have) I like to close them myself. Drop free does look nice for show but not for EDC I feel.
 
Took a short video of lockbar tension and no lockbar tension on my knifeart large carbon fiber sebenza 21

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX6pESFggU0/

I've handled a few other small sebenzas that do not function as such. But were still really smooth. This is the first one I loved.
 
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When I disengage pressure from the lock bar my 25's blade is completely free. Just as much so as on any bearing knife I've had. All the while it is absolutely solid as a rock side to side.
 
My small Starbenza and small CF both "drop"; my small micarta Insingo and Classic don't.

Given that all all four open smoothly as glass, and all four blades are perfectly centered, I'm happy.

Regards,
Adam
 
None of mine freely drop and I like it that way. Like some, I like to close the blade myself. Been bit to many time.
 
I have handled Sebenzas where the owners have done their own adjustments to the washers chasing this strange expectation of a free dropping blade (thanks apostle p...:rolleyes:), what they didn't seem to detect is they have introduced side to side play in the process....a tight factory fit, that after years of carry may allow free dropping is what I prefer. Tinkering with the washers, I suggest don't do it, or at least stipulate at the time of sale that the washers have been molested.

I will never understand how someone can buy a knife whose high price is justified by its extremely tight tolerances and precision; then proceed to start sanding down portions of this knife ruining the tolerances.

Whats the point of getting the knife then. Just buy a cheaper knife with a looser pivot and save yourself some dough.
 
I will never understand how someone can buy a knife whose high price is justified by its extremely tight tolerances and precision; then proceed to start sanding down portions of this knife ruining the tolerances.

Whats the point of getting the knife then. Just buy a cheaper knife with a looser pivot and save yourself some dough.
The theory is that the washers will wear in with use. Doing this will make it faster. A sebenza gets better with time. So the theory is sound but in reality it's not going to work exactly like that. But it may.

Or your just making one side more smooth so the blade moves better on it. This only works if you don't take off much material which is variable cause no one can see with a microscope how many microns they are removing to make it smooth.
 
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I would be more concern if the action (opening/closing) is gritty. If it is left unattended, may lead to issues down the road.
 
The theory is that the washers will wear in with use. Doing this will make it faster. A sebenza gets better with time. So the theory is sound but in reality it's not going to work exactly like that. But it may.

Or your just making one side more smooth so the blade moves better on it. This only works if you don't take off much material which is variable cause no one can see with a microscope how many microns they are removing to make it smooth.

But a Sebenza will naturally wear just the right ammount with proper use. Sanding washers it is possible to sand too much off very easily.
 
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It's a new fad is all. Even my most well worn in Sebenzas do not drop free and still have that hydraulic smooth feeling. Good way to get CUT. I am not about to sand washers and such to get this effect as your just voiding the warranty for what reason...??? You see people showing this off with the Shirogorov knives.
 
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