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[Initialconditions]

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[Ilikesharpstuff]

You may find some help here:

Thread 'The Les George Knives Thread'

May 18, 2019

As a big fan of Les George knives and designs, I thought there should be a dedicated thread to share pics and discussions. Fixed blades, folders, tools, customs, mid techs, collaborations...anything Les George is welcome, so let’s see them!

To start things off, I picked this one up off the exchange not long ago. Id been looking for a VECP, but couldn’t pass this guy up! Just a beast of a knife that actually cuts pretty well! I have not used it much yet, but I think I’m going to have it for a long time.
Monkey Edge Frag Pattern Talos anodized bronze

• blades&wrenches
• Replies: 3,024
• Forum: General Knife Discussion

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...or you may just find people who will tell you the problem is you, not possibly anything King George produced When I first got into Les George I was amazed how finicky they can be to tune...pivot adjustments that I wouldn't even measure in a fraction of a turn, more like putting pressure on the screw than even perceptibly moving it. Once you get it just right they can be phenomenal. I've only had one, a frame lock VECP, that I couldn't tune to the desired combination of great action and solid lockup. The members in that thread assured me that it was a me issue, not a knife issue, but compared to my Talos that knife just wasn't the same. The one time I did reach out to Les about it he sent new washers with no questions asked to see if it would help, but I still couldn't get it just right.

Regarding blade play when the knife isn't locked, I'm not sure what you're asking for is possible. When the lock isn't engaged, the blade is simply rotating around a pivot sandwiched between the scales. For it to have no play, the pivot screw would have to be tight enough to impede a proper/desirable action. I'm not saying the thing should wobble like a sheet in the wind, but the lock does exactly what its name implies...locks the blade. Not only to lock it open and prevent it from closing on you, but lock it tightly into the full open position.

What happens in between full open and full close is the pivoting motion...one that must happen smoothly and somewhat freely...requires some degree of free movement. On a frame or liner lock, once the lock is disengaged you still have the pressure of the lockbar pushing the detent into the side of the tang...this can eliminate some of the play you would feel if you held the lockbar completely off the blade and wiggled it. The way a button lock interfaces with the tang prevents it from providing this type of pressure so maybe you notice the play more. The Inkosi I'm carrying today doesn't have any side to side play at half open until I remove the lockbar pressure completely...then it wiggles a bit.

 

[Initialconditions]

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[DennisM]

mitchnola norcalAF - someone needs the advice from "experts".

 

[J. Doyle]

Regarding the slight blade play when the lock is disengaged......is that a problem?

If it's solid when open, I don't see an issue.

 

[Initialconditions]

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[unwisefool]

You just got it in and immediately listed it for sale? And you are selling it while having reached out to the manufacturer to see if they will fix it?

 

[Initialconditions]

You just got it in and immediately listed it for sale? And you are selling it while having reached out to the manufacturer to see if they will fix it?

Hi... again, just looking for insights that I've requested in the original posting.

But to elaborate:

I don't know if what I described is typical for this knife, and therefore within factory spec, or not. As stated, some knives have play with the lock disengaged, some don't As an example, I've owned hundreds of CRK's and play is not within factory spec, except in the instance of the carbon fiber fronts (KA exclusives) which do allow for a very small amount of wiggle with the lock disengaged. Something about the tolerances being very slightly different between the CF and TI versions. I have had multiple conversations with folks at CRK regarding it, including a few conversations with Tim. All that said, again, I don't know what factory spec is for LG, and if what I'm seeing is something they would address or not. So, yes, I have listed it, and have specified exactly what I've just reiterated (again) for you. Kindly re-read my sales listing, thanks.

 

[Initialconditions]

If I get a third response that not only fails to provide any insights that I've requested, but goes in a completely different direction than I'd intended, I''ll just close this thread and wait for LG's reply. Was hoping there'd be some folks with alot of experience with the VECP... but I'm not gonna wait for them to pop up while constantly restated what I've already said. Just a waste of time for all in that case.

 

[Blues]

Do not post links to sales in this thread. If there is relevant info in the sales thread, copy and paste the relevant portion for discussion here.
The earlier link has been removed.

 

[Initialconditions]

Do not post links to sales in this thread. If there is relevant info in the sales thread, copy and paste the relevant portion for discussion here.
The earlier link has been removed.

Thanks for the assistance and apologies for the oversight

 

[unwisefool]

Hi... again, just looking for insights that I've requested in the original posting.

But to elaborate:

I don't know if what I described is typical for this knife, and therefore within factory spec, or not. As stated, some knives have play with the lock disengaged, some don't As an example, I've owned hundreds of CRK's and play is not within factory spec, except in the instance of the carbon fiber fronts (KA exclusives) which do allow for a very small amount of wiggle with the lock disengaged. Something about the tolerances being very slightly different between the CF and TI versions. I have had multiple conversations with folks at CRK regarding it, including a few conversations with Tim. All that said, again, I don't know what factory spec is for LG, and if what I'm seeing is something they would address or not. So, yes, I have listed it, and have specified exactly what I've just reiterated (again) for you. Kindly re-read my sales listing, thanks.

I read your sales listing, I just think it's bad form to list a knife you think might be defective until you have actually received confirmation from the manufacturer, regardless of the fact that you have owned hundreds of knives from another company. Seems a little sketchy. What's the rush?

 

[Initialconditions]

I read your sales listing, I just think it's bad form to list a knife you think might be defective until you have actually received confirmation from the manufacturer, regardless of the fact that you have owned hundreds of knives from another company. Seems a little sketchy. What's the rush?

If you scroll up in this thread, there's someone that thinks it's not an issue at all. And, as I've stated, I do NOT know if it's an issue or not. Ugh, closing this thread.

I don't much care what t you think is bad form or not. Not asking and don't want your opinion on that part of the situation at all. I've bought and sold probably thousands of knives, and almost everything is specific to the individual. Someone might see it and go, "I don't care, I want it." or "That's not an issue and you're crazy, lemme have it" or "It's broke, I don't want it" but everyone is open to their own response each time a knife is listed for sale. What is never appropriate, in my opinion, is just chiming in, saying "you shouldn't be selling that" based on your limited opinion and experience. That. IS bad form.