Delica blade tension...

Joined
Jan 1, 1999
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After some long anticipation, I finally received a few Gen 4 Delicas. I like everything about this model that is compact, lightweight and easy to carry due to 4 position clip holes. The blade is a great utility shape and is serving just fine in the workshop. BUT, what' s the deal with the blade tension pivot screw? I have moved it in small increments, but there doesn' t seem to be much change in the blades opening resisitance. :grumpy: Open it a bit more and the blade wobble comes into play, literally. Lube has been added and worked in already.

N.
 
Could it be because of the nylon washers? I heard they don't help much against blade play :(
 
If the washers are a concern, just email Spyderco's CS and they'll send out the proper bronze washers that were (and still are) advertised on the spyderco webstore for the Delica 4. So far 3/4 of my spydercos have had problems that required repair work straight out of the box; the Delica4 being the latest. As much as I want to LOVE spyderco because of their designs, etc.. their QC level is making it difficult. Maybe I just have really bad luck regardless of who I order their knives from.
 
Excuse my absence. My Delica 4 models do have the bronze washers. And one that I' ve been using since receiving seems to have smoothed out, but only just a bit. While depressing and holding the lock release, I rotated the blade many times. Blade movement seems a bit smoother. And it seems that at least one of the problems for the excessive tension is in the nature of the lockback mechanism. Well, I sure hope that this is not the case for the waved models, which I am due to receive soon...

N.
 
Nakano 2 said:
I have moved it in small increments, but there doesn' t seem to be much change in the blades opening resisitance. :grumpy: Open it a bit more and the blade wobble comes into play, literally.

Try loosening the screw holding the lock bar until the handle spacing at that screw is equal to the handle spacing at the pivot. Then work on getting the pivot just right.
 
The "deal" on the blade pivot "tension" screw is than it does not exist. The screw is not intended to be a method for adjusting tension. As you've already at least part-way realized, the opening "tension" on a properly assembled front lock is a factor of lock spring strength, all you can possibly increase by over-tightening the pivot is drag, which will make the knife both difficult to open and difficult to close.

The trick is to tighten it slowly until you feel drag, then back it off until the drag just disappears. Same applies to the lockbar pivot. Loosening either, or both, any further will only increase blade play, the pressure of the lockbar against the cam on the blade tang, and thus the perceived opening tension remains a constant.

The only safe and effective way to lower opening tension "sometimes" is to disassemble the knife, examine the bottom surface of the lockbar dog and the cam surface of the blade tang, and carefully polish them to an absolute mirrror finish if they don't already have one. Even here, you are not really adjusting "tension" merely minimizing the friction of the dog riding on the cam, but if they are not perfect, it will make the action feel lighter.

The only real way to lower blade tension is by "tweaking" the lockspring. Not a good idea, in fact a really bad one, as there is a substantial risk of increasing the risk of the blade opening far enough to bite you while in your pocket to an unacceptable level.
 
Does your pivot pin have a crimped washer on the male side of the screw?

Mine does... it's very weird.

It goes from being wobbly to stiff-and-impossible-to-open in about 0.2mm of arc.

I also disassembled the knife and mirrorpolished the blade's "tang" arc. It substantially reduced the grittiness of the opening action.

-j
 
I never complain untill I've opened and closed the knife a few hundred times. There is a bit of a breaking in period with new knives.
 
The blade tension can also be affected by the lockbar where it slides along the blade as you open it. Perhaps you got one that isn't quite as polished up either along the top of the lock or the blade itself.

I took the one I am rebuilding in titanium apart and it already had PB washers in it. I don't think the tension on any of the ones I have held and played with have been bad at all. (3 to date) I'd suggest trying to lube a bit on the blade where it slides over the lock bar and adjust the tension of the pivot so it just has the slightest amount of play laterally. So slight you have to really push it to notice. That is where these are set that I'm looking at and that seems to be optimum for me.

STR
 
This particular one has seen many hundreds of openings and closings easily. And lube has been applied liberally in all metal to metal contact parts of the action. I have even air pressure blasted the entire knife til bone dry several times. And followed with relubing. I also tried the lock bar and pivot screws "tweaking"- no improvement. Just for comparison, the action on the last generation Delicas (with ambi steel clip butt end mounting) are much more smoother than these current 4s.

N.
 
Biogon, I can only see the bronze washers when the blade is in partially or fully locked open position(s). I don' t see any "crimp" you described?

N.
 
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