Recommendation? Delica, but with sensible choils?

Smaug

Smaug

Joined
Jun 30, 2003
Messages
1,797
I’m on my third Delica. It’s an absolute classic.

HOWEVER…. I always notice that my first two fingers are crammed together in the first choil, and the third choil is much bigger than it needs to be for a pinky.

I have a Native and I love the ergonomics, but I don’t like how much of the edge is lost to the first choil.

I had a Manix 2 and got back that edge, but it’s getting to be on the big side for my taste.

I don’t really want one of the fancy Para models with thicker blade stock.

Is the Leafjumper what I’m looking for? Or Centofante and be careful with closing one-handed?
 
Yes, you are 100% looking for a Leaf Jumper. I just picked up a Rock Jumper on clearance since this model was discontinued for next year, it's a great design IMO. It was designed from the beginning to bring the handle forward to span that choil area and eliminate the wasted space of the choil. If you're unsure about the design you can pickup a Rock Jumper at roughly wholesale (clearance) and you'd possibly be in a better position to sell if you don't like the handle design. I think that the wharnecliffe is something you may even come to prefer over the leaf shape in use as there's a lot of positives. Unfortunately the market doesn't get it and there's a TON of discontinued wharnecliffe models for next year. Leaf shape is much more popular.
 
Thanks, Father & Son. What are the advantages of Wharncliffe?

Is that the only difference between Rockjumper and Leafjumper?
 
Yes, the Leaf Jumper was released after the Rock Jumper as the leaf shape is quite popular option. They should be entirely identical otherwise, AFAIK. For one, I find them incredibly easy to grind (wharnecliffe) on standard benchstones. The curved portions of the blade can cause issues with maintaining correct angle control freehanding. Since the entire bevel can contact the stone at once it makes it easier to hold a relatively steady angle so sharpening should be faster and less frustrating.

Secondly, the curved edge section tends to limit penetration in cuts. This is intentional on something like a hunter/skinning knife in order to avoid piercing the vitals while field dressing game, therefore there is a very pronounce curve to avoid this. Leaf shape is a much more gentle curve but the result is still similar, although less dramatic. You also have a very nice tip on wharnecliffe that penetrates much better due to how the edge is oriented in relationship to the tip.

Basically, what you have is a very large box-cutter blade. Perfect for most utility tasks people tend to find need doing. Everything is a trade-off in the end so that's why having a leaf shape can be nice because it sort-of splits the difference between a big-belly hunting knife and a straight wharnecliffe shape. For me, I value having straight edge for these reasons and the more the better in general. So, on a smaller knife such as this I'd prefer to have the entire edge straight.
 
I found a nice Bugout here that’s on the way. I’ll see if it “makes the cut .” I’m apparently pickier than I thought…
 
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