Delica Uneven Edge

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kershawguy13

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May 8, 2014
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The Delica needed sharpening, so I decided to touch it up on the SM at 40. On one side the edge was being hit, but on the other it was sharpening the shoulder. I decided to try to reprofile it to 30 with sandpaper on the SM, but didnt make much progress. Should I order the diamond rods for the SM, or use my Lansky kit? Thanks.
 
Reprofiling with the SM can take a lot of time. Even with the diamond rods. What kind and grit sandpaper were you using? I have used 400 and 320 automotive wet dry sandpaper with good results.
 
Go to the auto parts store and look for 3M or Gator Grit. Lowes might have some stuff that will work but you should avoid anything not designed for metal.

320 and 400 is more of a medium coarse, try starting with 220 then 400 before going to the SM.
 
kershawguy13 said:
Went to the local hardware store and got Gator Grit 120, 180, 220, 320, and 400.
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Are you planning on doing a mirror polish? I have been sharpening for about 3 years, but only seriously getting into it for about a year. I LOVE sharpening and find it a stress relieving joy. I can do all the neat tricks you see here. (split hanging hair, slice phone book into "s" shaped slivers, face shave...) At first, I would have went with your plan. Close together grits are not necessary for sharp edges though. It does help a lot to get a great polished edge.

I recently took a large chef knife that was destroyed by my mom. She cut on glass, dish washed with other metal bashing into it and left it in a drawer to fight other hardened steel. The edge would not cut paper or me for that matter. I spent about 10 minutes with a DMT XC (220 grit) and was really attentive to detail. I kept the angle dead on, low pressure and took care to minimize a burr on such a large grit. The knife went from useless to easily shaving and slicing phone book paper with ease. This blew my mind. It was not the shiny mirror that I had learned to love, but I might have found a new love. It only took 10 minutes to have a superior edge... no endless grits, no stropping, no polishing.... just quick and sharp.

Despite my ramble the point is- It's probably not necessary for such a close grit progression. 120 should be used for a knife that doesn't have an edge, like a new knife with no bevel ever ground. Follow Jason B's advice! I have learned a lot from reading his posts. (THANKS Jason!!!) One day I would love to have a sharpening Olympics with a few guys from around here.... a challenge for sure!!!

PS: Thought I would give her a call, it's still slicing great after two weeks.
 
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Anyone have any experience with the Congress Moldmaster stones? Looking at the 1"x1/8"x6" stones to binder clip to the regular SM stones. I want a cheaper, coarser alternative to the diamond stones.
 
kershawguy13 said:
Anyone have any experience with the Congress Moldmaster stones? Looking at the 1"x1/8"x6" stones to binder clip to the regular SM stones. I want a cheaper, coarser alternative to the diamond stones.
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Congress has triangle stones that fit right in the Sharpmaker base.
 
kershawguy13 said:
I've heard that they don't fit very well, this is why I am considering the flat ones. Would the spyderco Diamond rods be a better choice?
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I didn't know people had issues with the fit of them.

The Sharpmaker diamond rods are specifically made for the Sharpmaker which is good, but they are a lot pricier than the congress versions.

Flat stones would work ok to. A lot of people use rubberbands to hold them on. A zip tie might work to :)
 
If I buy some coarser stones for the SM to reprofile my Delica to 30 inclusive, do I do the standard one stroke on one side one stroke on the other, or do I work up a burr by focusing on one side, then flip the burr back?
 
I suggest you use the Lansky with your most course stone to reprofile the edges.
The Sharpmaker will take way too long IMO.
For the price the Lansky is not a bad system but the better ones cost a good bit more and I like the KME best for that type system.
I use the Sharpmaker often but only for touching up and maintaining.
 
willc said:
I suggest you use the Lansky with your most course stone to reprofile the edges.
The Sharpmaker will take way too long IMO.
For the price the Lansky is not a bad system but the better ones cost a good bit more and I like the KME best for that type system.
I use the Sharpmaker often but only for touching up and maintaining.
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I'm gonna try this when I get home...Thanks
 
Yeah, I've had good luck reprofiling with the lansky. It's a good system. I remove burrs by stroping on cardboard. Works better than you'd think.
 
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