Delta sander...

I hate to admit it, but that's what I use
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, that and a 6" Delta bench grinder, a cheap hacksaw, a dremel, and a bunch of files.

I guess they kinda work, but probably only to those of us who don't yet know the difference.

Go ahead and get one. They're pretty cheap and do a half decent job. The biggest problems are that:
1) They don't have adjustable speeds, and
2) The platen stinks - it extends about 1/2" from the edge of the belt, so your plunge line ends up being a complete mess. You'll have to make a new one.

Once you get a bit better, you can justify spoiling yourself on a better (and more expensive) piece of equipment for your shop.
 
I went to their web site and the model I was looking at is basically for wood. They do have a 1" model made for grinding steel. steel model. How about this one???



[This message has been edited by exsanguinate (edited 11-15-2000).]
 
The one I own is a 4x36 - the same model you linked in your first post.
 
L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
To help the plunge cuts, get a piece of 1/4" plate steel the same length as the platent and the width of the belt. Bevel the long edges about 45 degrees and round off the ends so the belt can slide over them freely. With this setup you can grind the blade to near finish then lay the blade on the belt and push the it into the bevel on the edge of the plate. Just run it up to where you want the plunge or ricasso to be. A forumite posted this a couple months ago but the thread dissapeared.
Use what you have to make as many knives as you can and sell them, don't give them away, and put the money right back into more gear and tools. You'll be suprised how far you'll go in the first year.

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Thanks for the tip, Michael!

It's so simple and straightforward, I wonder why I didn't think of doing this a long time ago
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I'm running a delta 4x36 too and I can get half ass decent plunges without having made a new platen. I just adjust the tracking to get the belt right on the edge of the platen, you have to work with the disc facing away from you, and since the platen has a round corner you get a round cut, but it can be cleaned up with a file and is much better than if you keep the belt centered. I always adjust it back to normal before using it on wood or for anything that doesn't require a plunge.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.

[This message has been edited by Matt Shade (edited 11-16-2000).]
 
go for the 1x42 with the 8 inch wheel i just brought one home tonight has 1/2 horse motor and i can`t slow it down...i used to use and still have a 4x36 with a 6 inch disc but it only has 1/3 horse..just not enough pee pee

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i keep grinding and grinding and it is still too short!!
 
I use a central machinery 4x36 belt sander much like the delta only probably a cheaper one. It works fine for createing my bevels jusat takes practice. For my plunge cuts I took an abrasive cutoff wheel and picked a spot on the table that had a reinforcing brace spot welded underneath it and cut the edges of the table away on each side. This way there is nothing there at these 2 points to stop how far you grind through the blade. It works well! Vaquero
 
exsang i used a 1x42 till i burned the thing out and moved up to a 2x72. the hints here about cleaning up the plunge with files are how i did it. also i tok the palten out and learned how to convex grind. convex is still my faviate! the strongest edge and you can cut circles very easy.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
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