Dendra Typhoon First Impressions and Possible Modifications

Z

Z Bacon

Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Messages
106
Let's start with some specs from BladeHQ:
Overall Length: 8.875"
Blade Length: 3.75"
Blade Thickness: 0.16"
Blade Material: D2
Hardness: 60-62 RC
Blade Style: Modified Drop Point
Blade Grind: Flat
Blade Finish: Stonewash
Edge Type: Plain
Handle Length: 5.25"
Handle Thickness: 0.78"
Handle Material: G-10
Handle Color: Black
Liner Material: Stainless Steel
Weight: 7.90 oz.
Pocket Clip: Right/Left Hand, Tip-Up
Knife Type: Manual
Opener: Thumb Stud, Flipper
Lock Type: Liner Lock
Brand: Dendra
Model: Typhoon
Designer: T. Antonevich
Country of Origin: Italy

I just got the Dendra Typhoon made by Lion Steel and I was very impressed at first. It came very tight out of the box as advertised and that was not a problem with the handy pivot tool. Thankfully the pivot will accommodate T8 Torx heads as well. The lock up was very strong and solid, albeit fairly sticky. That should wear in over time though, like most Lion Steel knives.

The ergonomics are wonderful: it's incredibly comfortable in the hand. The blade is also ground to a nice thin edge which I like on my knives. The texturing on the handle is very grippy but not too aggressive. The edges of the handle are all perfectly even and there are no sharp corners.

As with most of my knives, I wanted to disassemble the Typhoon to clean it thoroughly and lubricate it when I got it. It may just be that the tolerances were very tight, but mine was incredibly difficult to disassemble. The back-spacer was an INCREDIBLY tight fit on the screw posts that ran through it. However, it was not too much trouble to take apart.

The big problems came when I wanted to put it back together. I was able to put all the pieces back together without too much effort, but when I went to tighten the screws things went bad. Every screw aside from the pivot broke just under the head as soon as I got it anywhere near tight. I'm not sure if this is a fluke, but that seems unlikely considering every screw broke. I immediately composed and sent an email to Lion Steel and I am awaiting their reply.

I am not sure what my options are when it comes to having it fixed or the screws replaced by Lion Steel, but I will most likely be modifying it. I got it to be a user anyway. I'm going to see if replacing the solid back-spacer with some standoffs will make it easier to clean and maintain along with some new Phosphor Bronze washers to replace the Nylon washers it came with.

I apologize if this is not the correct category or format for a thread such as this, but I wanted to share my first impression and first experiences with the Dendra Typhoon.
 
Well its a shame that the screws broke. It seems rather odd though. Are you sure you werent applying excessive force to the screws? Please understand Im not trying to say your not qualified to disassemble the knife and put it back together but I would think that if those screws were in fact defective and broke that easy and the screws fit as tightly as they did they should have 1. broke at the factory when they installed them. Or 2. Broke while trying to unscrew them. Torx bits do exactly what their name implies. They apply large amounts of torque. More so than your standard flat head or phillips head. And if each screw broke just after tight, maybe that was a sign it was too tight? Its entirely possible the Area removed from the head to allow for the bit was formed to close to the thread and therefore made the screw prone to sheering, but It surprising that these wouldnt break at the factory if assembling the knife that tight. Either way i hope you get it sorted.
 
You know, I am glad to see a conversation started about these knives, and sad that yours had these issues. I am awaiting the Deer Hunter, and already have the Defender.
I love the Defender, and want the whole line.
I actually am thinking about getting a Typhoon later tonight.....
I noticed that the action on my Defender was super tight, and when I attempted to loosen the pivot screw, It was clear to me, it was over tightened at the factory.
It was enough that I was worried I would scar the screw holes and possibly break the flimsy tool that came with it.
I then had a "V8" moment and used my HEST 2.0 tool, and it was all ok. The hest tool fits like a charm, and is twice as stout as the DENDRA tool that comes with their knives....I hope they come up with their own version or something soon.
As for the screws holding the knife together loosing their heads...well, that is a sure sign of to much torque on stainless steel hardware. I have seen it literally 1 thousand times. These screws are tiny...and a controlled amount of torque is needed, I don't know how much...but I bet it's a tiny bit...lol.

Anyways..sorry about your knife, and can't wait to hear about the resolution.
 
PURPLEDC said:
Well its a shame that the screws broke. It seems rather odd though. Are you sure you werent applying excessive force to the screws? Please understand Im not trying to say your not qualified to disassemble the knife and put it back together but I would think that if those screws were in fact defective and broke that easy and the screws fit as tightly as they did they should have 1. broke at the factory when they installed them. Or 2. Broke while trying to unscrew them. Torx bits do exactly what their name implies. They apply large amounts of torque. More so than your standard flat head or phillips head. And if each screw broke just after tight, maybe that was a sign it was too tight? Its entirely possible the Area removed from the head to allow for the bit was formed to close to the thread and therefore made the screw prone to sheering, but It surprising that these wouldnt break at the factory if assembling the knife that tight. Either way i hope you get it sorted.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am sure I was not applying excessive force. When I was taking the screws out they weren't very tight. Just snug. I have tightened screws on other knives more than the screws on my Typhoon and they've never broken.
 
If they over torqued and stretched the screws at the factory, it sets them up for premature failure when they are reinstalled. That's why head bolts (and many others) can't be reused, bucause they are actually stretched during installation. I think its either that, or crappy imported screws to begin with. Hopefully, they make it right with you.
 
All screws and bolts stretch when tightened, but to varying degrees. If the OP's screws were thread locked at the factory, removing them might have over stressed them, but that is not what he reports. If the screws were defective, the factory assemblers must have known this and put them in gently. If he gets new screws I recommend putting them in gently with purple Loctite, their weakest grade. Most assembly screws are tiny compared to the sizes commonly used in the home, and require a light touch not to damage them.
 
I picked up a Deer Hunter and it was shipped with the pivot tightened down too much too.

I have been working on adjusting it, but it is tricky to get just right so far.

I have loosened the pivot, but now the blade isn't centered and it probably going to end up rubbing against the liner-frame if it stays like this.

Plus the liner-lock is sticky and takes a lot of pressure to unlock. I will be taking a pencil to put some graphite on the tang to reduce this when I get a chance.

Overall, I really like the knife. It is overbuilt, yet has a ergonomic handle shape that works for me quite well.
 
An update on my modifications to my Typhoon: The strength of the lock-bar was really bugging me so I ground away a bit of metal at the bend in the lock-bar. It's lighter but it still locks fully so I am satisfied. I also beveled the edge of the lock-bar so it's not as rough on my thumb.
 
austonh said:
Hey Z Bacon, was there ever a resolution with the broken screw issue?
Click to expand...

Not really. Lion Steel never got back to me.

I got new screws and backspacers from KnifeKits and I like the look of them alot more than the full G10.
 
Pics?

I have to say, grinding the lockbar cutout is a reasonably risky modification and I'm glad it worked out in your favor.
 
I picked up a Typhoon a week ago and must say I love it.

Mine came perfect and flips with very slight wrist action.

It locks up early and with one of the best sounding locks I've heard on a knife.

I'm sorry to hear about the OP's issues, but for a sub $150 knife I can't recommend it enough.

I don't disassemble my knives unless totally necessary and I wouldn't take down my Typhoon as well.

I'm planning on picking up a Defender shortly as well
 
I too disassemble my knives in order to clean them out and stick my own lubricant on. The one thing that is really stopping me from buying this as a user is the tiny tiny tiny screws they use on their folders.

Let me give you an example on the Tiger Jump: near .2 inch thick D2 blade, ti framelock, and they stick these tiny looking screws on it? I am sure it will hold up to what i need it for but lets be honest, why take all that good stoutness and use tiny screws for the handle.

I am really on the fence with these but they just look so darn tempting.
 
Nullity said:
Pics?

I have to say, grinding the lockbar cutout is a reasonably risky modification and I'm glad it worked out in your favor.
Click to expand...

I have to agree. I dont know why it was required either. You can easily adjust lock bar strength without cutting into the knife at all. But I too am glad he is satisfied with the results, even if I would have taken a much different approach.
 
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