dersrt ironwood too light colored

vic2367

vic2367

Joined
Sep 15, 2006
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dont know if this is the correct forum .and im sorry if it is

i have a complete knife , but i find the desert ironwood pieces on it to be too light colored ,,would like it more darker or red ,,any ideas on how to start , or where to begin ?BTW is a bark river north star ,

thanks

vic
 
dryhands said:
Wood stain? you could also try the boiling scales in some tea
Click to expand...

Stain, maybe???
Boiling!!!...not unless you are trying to remove the scales and throw them away, It would ruin most scales.

On DI, there isn't much to do to change the color, but you can try working in some darker oil based wood stain.
 
Desert ironwood darkens by itself rather quickly. The more you handle it, the darker it will get. I have some that was fairly light, and is almost black now. In fact, most people begin to wonder how to keep it light enough to show the grain, because, as I said, it does darken.
 
David is correct although naturally some just aren't as dark as others or won't get as dark, and it can take a some time.

There are ways to "ebonize" woods, that are quite different than staining, more like a patina. A simple solution of steel wool dissolved in vinegar works well on many woods, but to varying degrees. Be sure to wash the steel wool with soap and water and ring it out a few times to get rid of any oil. It usually takes about 5-7 days for the solution to reach full strength. Also, if it's in a jar with a lid, put a tiny hole in the lid so it can gas out. I just tried some on a small sample of ironwood and it worked quite well and very fast. I'm not a chemist, so don't quote me on this, but I think remember reading that the iron in the acidic solution reacts with the tannins in the wood,… which is why a diluted solution of ferric chloride also works. However, if you use ferric chloride, it would probably be a good idea to neutralize it afterwards. The traditional solution of vinegar and steel wool does seem to work quite well on desert ironwood.

Here’s a shot of the sample from a few minutes ago:

DSCN3576.jpg


Of course, the surface of the wood needs to be raw, no oil, wax or stain. It’s also a good idea to raise the grain a couple times first for a nice smooth finish, because the solution will raise the grain if you don’t.

For more information, just Google “ebonizing wood”.
 
I'd suggest you just leave it as it is and let it darken by the oils from your hand and UV exposure, as ironwood tends to. I've seen older pieces that have become almost completely black without any grain visible. So let it age till you like it and then put some UV blocking wax or varnish on it to protect it.

Though, ironwood only turns a darker brown on its own, not red. If you want it to become more reddish/orangish, you might have to try a stain.
 
heres the pic

maybe its just not as "figured" if thats the word im trying to use

 
crappy pic , i know

i think im just going to play with it for a while and see what happens
 
Can't do anything about the "Figuring" or pattern in the wood. I agree with the others that almost all natural wood will darken as it gets used. Due to the Oily grits from your dirty mitts!
 
For about the past year the lighter color ironwood has been requested more than anything.
Lighter color pieces like what you have shown tend to have more chatoyance. (a metallic flash that changes as light hits from different angles)
My suggestion would to just let it develop a darker patina as it ages.
 
thanks for all the great info guys ,,i gonna get it a bit dirty and see what happens , i always order all mt ironwood more "red" or "darker" , dont know why it came this light ,,oh well ,
 
That's a nice piece of ironwood with nice figure. It will develop a nice patina as it ages and as Mark says the lighter ironwood seems to be more "in". If you wanted to re handle that blade I have some very dark almost dark chocolate brown ironwood with very little lighter coloring. Be glad to send ya some.
 
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