Desert Ironwood for scales: recommended grit progression; sanding paper or whetstones

D

daberti

Joined
Apr 2, 2005
Messages
496
Hello,
I've just received some really good AZ Desert Ironwood.
I'd like to use it for making scales for some folders of mine and after reading all of the possible posts here I'm eventually even more confused.

I've 1000-2000-6000 polishing tapes and Naniwa Chosera Whetstones 400/600/1000/3000/5000/10000.
I've also a Dremel with 300-600 abrasive sanding paper.

What would it be the recommended path?

Bottom line:
I've an AZ DI scale done by a local woodworker. It is perfect, apart the fact that it is NOT glossy as I'd like and not all of the possible details of the wood have been brought to real world. How to enhance the luster finishing given it looks a little bit on the matte side?

Thanks in advance
 
If you want more gloss, I'd sand it with 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit paper, then 0000 steel wool, then hand rub it with pumice, then finish with a good glosssy sealant/finisher.

I've had good luck on rifle stocks with the finishers and sealants made by Laurel Mountain Forge from Brownell's.

BTW, Desert Ironwood is a beautiful thing if properly finished.
 
I think it would depend on the current finish of the wood. You would need to sand out all the scratches from the previous grit. For me i take most of my wood up to 2k grit if stabilized and 600 if it isnt. It depends on the hardness of the wood. In your case the AZ DI is super hard and will probably hold a great finish. I would take it up to you max grit. Also note that the Japanese grit system is different if you intend on using your whetstones.

I would DEFINITELY stay away from a dremel in doing handle work.

For me I use tru-oil. can get a small bottle at wallmart for under 10$. Then after the desired amount of very thin coats (wait about half a day in between coats) buff with a cloth and add a top coat of wax. I use a cheapo flooring wax from home depot but you can get the super stuff (renwax).
 
Thanks Ben & Ken.

I'll test the 10000 Chosera on a second (quality wise). Tapes are the EdgePro polishing tapes plus a 3M polishing tape taken a couple of years ago in a woodworking store.

Ok. No Dremel with handles, oil, top coat of wax. Got it !
 
=) when i say no dremmel i am assuming it is a non patterned handle like no anso pattern or rock or reptilian but a smooth or contoured wood handle. lol its hard to hold a dremmel and get an even finish... might i say impossible. Also im not sure how you intend to use your sharpening stones and tape on a wood handle.... I would go with traditional sand paper...... from home depot and automotive stores.

=) good luck! post some pics if you have time. I never get tired of looking at wood =D (insert dirty joke here)
 
ken1111 said:
=) when i say no dremmel i am assuming it is a non patterned handle like no anso pattern or rock or reptilian but a smooth or contoured wood handle. lol its hard to hold a dremmel and get an even finish... might i say impossible. Also im not sure how you intend to use your sharpening stones and tape on a wood handle.... I would go with traditional sand paper...... from home depot and automotive stores.

=) good luck! post some pics if you have time. I never get tired of looking at wood =D (insert dirty joke here)
Click to expand...

Stones would be used for flat side of handles (the one contacting tang or liners).
I've quite a steady hand with dremel but I'll leave it only for thick and contoured/sculpted handles.
I've also quite a choice of abrasive and bare leather, just in case.

I have renaissance wax as well. As oil will Line Oil do?

Thanks mate
 
I have never used line oil. do you mean linseed? i think tru-oil is boiled linseed oil with other additives. either that or tung oil should be fine.

I have also been reading desert iron wood is super dense it may not absorb oil so perhaps just try adding a thin layer see if it absorbs it? Use a balled up clean rag and polish the oil on. If the oil beads up then you know the wood doesnt absorb it, then just skip to buffing with the wax on another clean rag.

honestly i have never done desert ironwood. This is just what i use in general for wood. each wood is an individual and you gotta learn how to finish it. here is what some other people have said about it.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/518411-Finishing-Arizona-desert-ironwood

great thing about wood is you can just sand it and try again ^_^
 
ken1111 said:
I have never used line oil. do you mean linseed? i think tru-oil is boiled linseed oil with other additives. either that or tung oil should be fine.

I have also been reading desert iron wood is super dense it may not absorb oil so perhaps just try adding a thin layer see if it absorbs it? Use a balled up clean rag and polish the oil on. If the oil beads up then you know the wood doesnt absorb it, then just skip to buffing with the wax on another clean rag.

honestly i have never done desert ironwood. This is just what i use in general for wood. each wood is an individual and you gotta learn how to finish it. here is what some other people have said about it.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/518411-Finishing-Arizona-desert-ironwood

great thing about wood is you can just sand it and try again ^_^
Click to expand...

Thanks once again mate: pretty much straightforward ��
 
You can't use sharpening stones to finish wood.

To finish the handles sand to 600-800 grit then use some steel wool to polish before applying a oil. The oil is what will make it shine.
 
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