Design question for fellow makers.

O

Omega Leather Works

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Jun 13, 2007
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I've been making sheaths for knives that I own and have access to, but I need to branch out.

I'd like to know if you guys buy every knife you design a sheath for, have a customer, a friend, or maker, send an example to you for your design, or if you design in some other way, maybe a less fitted design (I'll refrain from using the word generic).

I'd like to make a sheath for a specific design, but I don't have access to it. What do you do in this instance?

Are pictures and measurements and experience enough?
 
I'm not in the sheath business, per se. Sorta just by default, though I do occasionally have folks with whom I am loosely acquainted have me make si them both sheaths and holsters. Under these circumstances, I have them send me the specimen if I don't have an example. That's the only way to do it correctly IMHO. I of course make sheaths for the knives that I make, but I obviously also posses said knives.

I have made them from measurements (on relatively simple items) and provided the end-user with instructions on fitment and such. But this has only been with leather, and only with no other option.

But again, I'm not in the business of making sheaths for knives other than the one's I make. I do it, just under limited and infrequent circumstances.
 
Simple answer, Buddy, I have to have the knife to make the sheath. I've tried other ways, measurements outlines etc. none worked to my satisfaction. You've seen how most of my sheaths are at an angle, or horizontal, gravity is not on my side. I must have the knife to get the fit right. There are just too many variables, even amongst knives I've made. The wife and I both carry the same little knife model that I made. The sheaths are not interchangeable.
 
Horsewright summed it up pretty good. Every sheath I have made (over 6000 now) has had it's own individual paper pattern designed and drawn from the actual knife it will carry. I think it must be done this way in order to get the very best fit for a given knife.

If you are working with primarily custom, hand made knives which is 99% of what I work on, then having the knife in hand is absolutely necessary. End of conversation.

You might be able to get away with knives produced in a factory type setting (ie Busse etc) by having an example knife one time and making a proto type pattern to be used for the same model knife later, but even then you might run into slight differences from knife to knife affecting the fit. In addition, each sheath should be hand fitted and molded when it is completed, to the specific knife which you cannot do without that knife or at least an example of that model. That is the very reason that the "generic" factory sheaths and most factory sheaths are generally either too tight or too loose and the retention strap is too long or too short. If they get close on blade length that becomes good enough, and that, my friend is why we custom makers get the BIG BUCKS.:rolleyes:

Paul
 
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The two above nailed it.

Even Busse, a high end production company do not make every knife exactly the same. For a while there they were getting them very close, but lately the LE's have much more hand work in them and have had some differences in over all dimensions. So much so in one that I had to replace several sheaths that were built on my on hand knife. The one I have is both narrower and shorter. A little wiggle room is a good thing. You can make a pattern off the original knife and work a few from there, but always be aware of the variances.

I never work from measurements and/or tracings. The one time I did it, I got lucky and it fit. But its nerve wracking. Too many variables making a three dimensional sheath for a three dimensional knife using a two dimensional pattern.

If there is a popular production knife that you feel like working with you would be best served to ask an owner if he'd send you his knife to work with. Offer a free sheath for his troubles, you get a pattern and he gets a nice sheath for free. :)
 
I guess I've been spoiled in that there are a number of bushcraft knives (from the brand that I've been making sheaths for) that fit properly in my pouch sheaths. I think it would be quite easy to adapt other bushcraft knives.

If I made knives to sell, a sheath would be a no brainer. I can make a nice knife but not quickly enough to make them financially viable. It took me a long time to finally admit it to myself, but my passion isn't in grinding steel (although I'll never stop doing it), but in sewing leather.

Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get people to ship their customs.

Edit- Dwayne (re: last paragraph), I was thinking of doing exactly that. :)
 
I was faced with this challenge last year.
The owner of the knife sent me a tracing of the knife both on its side and sitting on the spine.


I made a foam core and matte board mock up of the knife and went from there.
The gentleman wanted a pocket sheath with no loop. This gave us a little leeway in the fit.


I sent it to him without any coatings or sealer so he could do the final wet mold himself.

Sometimes you can 'make do'
Again, I'm not doing these for paying clients, just helping a friend out.
If I was ever to do this for money I'd really, really want the knife in hand.
 
If you cant get the knife have them make a wood or hard foam model of
the knife for a near perfect fit as well as wet shaping the sheath for a fitted
match. The paper patterns are always short due to the difference in thickness/weight
from the leather as well as the desired style the maker wants. The same knife fits
different in a cowboy sheath than it does in a gentleman's sheath.
If he cant send you the knife or mold send him the piece of leather so he can measure / wet form
it. wet the leather wrap the plastic wrapped knife with the leather then secure it with rubber bands.
After the leather dries you have a pretty close measurement of the blade just modify the
belt loop for high rider, cross draw, Mexican loop, no loop or in the belt loop.
hope this helps.
 
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