Design the perfect machete.

valcas1

valcas1

Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
934
I am looking for input from the wilderness crew about the perfect machete. I have been planning on making a field knife along the lines of a machete.

I think that a 12-13" blade with a handle that would accomodate 1 1/2 hands would be perfect. David at Great Lakes has these designs on his website and I like them both for different reasons. I would like to use the forum for some input as to which one you would like better and why?

http://store.greatlakeswaterjetinc....e=GLW1&Product_Code=BRC2-1&Category_Code=CHOP

http://store.greatlakeswaterjetinc....ode=GLW1&Product_Code=BRC2&Category_Code=CHOP

I will be using 3/16" 1095 or 5160 for the steel and my thought is to go with a convex grind. I will also include some of the ideas that have been discussed on this forum. Small Scandi grind near handle, very square spine close to the handle to be used as a scraper, and a round spine out front to make the knife comfortable to be used for a draw knife.


I am not sure about the handles on the two knives pictured. I want a handle long enough to be able to accomodate 1 1/2 hands for heavy chopping. I am thinking that less is more in the way of contours. Maybe just a straight handle. What are your thoughts?

Please let me know what everyone thinks. I actually think I am going to make 4-5 at a time for the proto type. Maybe after they are complete I can do a passaround to get some hands on input. Would there be in interest in a passaround?

Thank you all in advance for your input.

Paul
 
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Where do you plan to be using this most? I think that your design should reflect what types of woods/brush/materials that you want to process. If mostly for brushwork, then a narrower blade with lots of whip, if wooded, then a thicker beveled blade, etc.

That's a very short "machete", more like a big chopper, so I'd go with Chopper 2 so there is more weight in front to help you. No need for a 2-handed grip, study how khukris are 'snapped' at the wrist to add more force to the downward blow, if you need to do serious chopping. Regarding grip, I prefer some sort of contour so you always have a way to index the blade by feel.
 
I'm liking the second one.

It has a bit of a longer blade, a recurved belly for chopping, and a smaller handle (which I like in a machete / chopper).

Both look nice, though!

I'll be honest - I'm not big on the idea of a long handle on this type of knife. In practice, I'm not sure that it provides much benefit in the way of additional power, as holding the blade two-handed limits your ability to snap it with your wrist. But that's just me.

All the best,

- Mike
 
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This is what comes into my mind......

design007.jpg


Or another I drew a while back.....

design005-1.jpg
 
I'll be honest - I'm not bit on the idea of a long handle on this type of knife. In practice, I'm not sure that it provides much benefit in the way of additional power, as holding the blade two-handed limits your ability to snap it with your wrist. But that's just me.
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That is why I think it is so important for the handle shape to be correct. I need the handle to be able to accomodate a single hand for light vegatation yet be capable to sneak the second hand in their for heavier chopping. At least that is my thought.

No need for a 2-handed grip, study how khukris are 'snapped' at the wrist to add more force to the downward blow, if you need to do serious chopping. Regarding grip, I prefer some sort of contour so you always have a way to index the blade by feel.
Click to expand...

I think larger Khukris benefit from the wieght of the blade and mass being right behind the sweet spot, also the arch or the blade. As far as some kind of contour my thought is to go with the proverbial egg shape handle scales so I don't think indexing should be a problem.

Keep the input coming please.
 
Keep the handle simple and don't have too many countours. I would be against recurves if you are going to use it for slicing up weeds too.
 
Thanks Joezilla,

Not much need for weeds and grasses. Most of the stuff I encounter is small saplings and briar patches. Then at camp it would be up to wrist size hardwood. I am leaning towards the second variation based on the weight forward design. I am still unsure of how to tackle the handle shape and design.
 
CWL has said a lot of what I would have said.

Of the two I don't like the look of the Big River Chopper 2.1 at all. It just looks like a knife scaled up big.

The Bolo shape of the Chopper 2 at least puts a good amount of weight forward. Again though, as it stands, it has a handle rather similar to a plain vanilla knife. Take a peek at the Condor golok. That type of handle is rather more typical on Pacific Basin tools for chopping. The chopping knife shape handle like that 2 / 2.1 I think of as a western thing born of ignorance because we all too were busy using axes to learn any better.

Not keen on any of that Scandi section or the squaring the spine business. I can see some justification if you wanted a section for scraping something like hides perhaps but it is something I loath on regular knives. The justification seems to be that it works better with a spark rod. I don't like that. Go down that road and we start to embark on that Rambo one knife mindset. Personally, I'd rather some bits of hacksaw and round the spine nicely so it is comfortable when I push on it. Same with the Scandi section. I can't imagine overlooking the FB about me only to go on to try to work my golok at fine tasks. Yeah, too much of the weirdly contrived “one knife scenario” about it. Keep it simple.
 
Joezilla said:
Keep the handle simple and don't have too many countours. I would be against recurves if you are going to use it for slicing up weeds too.
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As per usual I agree with Joe. Generally as few contours as possible on the handle will maximize both comfort and versatility. Also not a fan of recurves...if I want a forward curving section on my blade I'm going for an all-out billhook design. :)
 
I made a short, heavy machete from 1/8" S7 steel with a 12" blade some time ago...It worked quite well, with a roomy (but not as roomy as your links) handle.

My paid membership is expired, but you can search all of my topics, it is labeled "hardwoods machete" or something similar. It might be able to help you think through the design process, or offer a little inspiration.

Good luck!
 
valcas1 said:
Horn Dog,

What is the legnth of that Becker machete?
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I think it is 14" or so. It is down in my big box o' choppers some place. Actually, my favorite machete for the yard is the 22" Tramontina, but I carry a shorter one in the bush.
 
valcas1, I personally would pick the first blank with the sorta Latin machete style.

The way my personal preferences stand right now I think that one is front heavy enough for chopping, and I'm not sure how i feel about recurves... Also the handle looks closer to right out of the box for hand and a half work...

And if you want to go that route...lets see the original hand and a half "bastard sword" had a pretty straight round handle with largish round pommel. Maybe take some insipration from that for your handle scales...rounded with a swell at the end...maybe kinda like a supersized opinel knife handle actually.
 
siguy said:
I made a short, heavy machete from 1/8" S7 steel with a 12" blade some time ago...It worked quite well, with a roomy (but not as roomy as your links) handle.

My paid membership is expired, but you can search all of my topics, it is labeled "hardwoods machete" or something similar. It might be able to help you think through the design process, or offer a little inspiration.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

here it is: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=585172

Simon, are you going to make any more of these?
 
Cool S7 machete. That is some really tough steel. Scrap Yard uses it and they are amazingly tough knives. I'd love to see a commercial version of that machete in S7.
 
I'm a big fan of the Bark River Golok. Blade length is about 10.5" ish. It handles the type of work you're looking for much better than any of the machetes I have, which are all longer than thinner. The handle is a about 6" long, so you can get a hand and 1/2 on it for heavier work. It has good weight to it, and I haven't found a better blade for general yard work. Takes out a banana tree like nobody's business. For serious camping/chopping I'm having a forum member make me a longer version with a hook on the back.
 
valcas1 said:
I will be using 3/16" 1095 or 5160 for the steel and my thought is to go with a convex grind. I will also include some of the ideas that have been discussed on this forum. Small Scandi grind near handle, very square spine close to the handle to be used as a scraper, and a round spine out front to make the knife comfortable to be used for a draw knife.

Thank you all in advance for your input.

Paul
Click to expand...

You beat me to the punch as these are the mods I put on my machetes.

If I were to start from scratch I would want a decent micarta handle that would flare towards the bottom but be all rounded to prevent hotspots and also distribute the impact. Sharp edges and corners concentrate the repeated impact and it gets annoying.

A longer handle is good but it really has to be effective when gripped with the very end of it in the palm.

Mac
 
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