Detecting Blade Play, How Hard Do You Try?

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oXObsidianXo

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Dec 30, 2013
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So I've got a few knives. Zero Tolerance, Spyderco, Benchmade, etc. And like many other knife enthusiasts out there, I cannot stand blade play. So I'm just wondering how much force you guys apply when looking for blade play? I think I'm using too much and maybe even feeling play that isn't there. Or perhaps, what I might feel isn't play, but just the washers being compressed (on some of my bearing pivot folders).

So what do you consider play vs over stressing the knife. How much force do you use, low (~1-2lb), moderate (~3-5lb), high (~6-9lb), or like me borderline insane where you practically try to make the blade move?

P.S. Doesn't have to be lb's just a guess on force.
 
In terms of how much force, I couldn't say, but it depends on the knife. On an office EDC knife that isn't likely to be used for life-or-death purposes, I'll just try to wiggle it back and forth with about the same amount of pressure as I'd use to hold a pen while writing. Any cutting I'd plan on using it for would be in straight lines, whether on paper or cardboard or maybe even cable. Zip ties on a very rare occasion. For an outdoor knife, where a folder is most likely my spare, I'll exert what you'd probably call moderate pressure, because the type of cutting and material being cut could vary a lot. Even so, we're not talking intentional abuse here.
 
I don't put much pressure on mine. It's pretty obvious when it's there. I've got a Mini Grip that the pivot has a tendency of loosening and you can feel slight play. It makes me angry that I didn't feel it when I bought it
 
I usually clamp a pair of vice-pliers on the end of the blade, place the knife on a low table and step on the handle with my foot. Then with both hands on the pliers I give it hell!

All my knives to date have blade play... I'm very disappointed. :mad:
 
Knife ownership and OCD aren't great partners.
Moxy has the correct answer.
I have some knives with noticeable "play" but they cut just fine. Life or death doesn't figure in my knife usage. Unless , of course ,the Zombies come. In which case I reach for my trusty and potentially lethal Opinel # 8.
 
All my benchmades have blade play if you put enough force against them but I run them a bit loose. I don't use them hard and I like that the blade swings free when the axis lock is pulled.
 
I never check. I think some people probably put so much force into it that they created blade play that wasn't there before. I've handled knives that have blade play and it's very obvious. If you have to grab the blade and put all your strength to try to wiggle it.... you're trying too hard to look for problems with the knife.
 
I grab the handle and the spine of the blade and try with mild force to fold the blade. For side play I will use about half as much force. A little play is no issue, but the lock cannot move under mild force.
 
Well it looks like I should start easing up when I check for play. I think it's causing unneeded stress, haha.

Also, +1 Moxy.
 
You are over thinking it big time. Its not just about force. It is about experience, technique and personal preference. You must know the lock and be one with it. Then you will know its weakness.

Dark Angel, that made me chuckle.
Matt
 
It depends on the knife. On a econo-knife like a Chinese Kershaw or similar I hardly worry about it. It's to be expected. Oh, I'll check, but I don't sweat it much. On a nicer knife like an American (or Taiwan) made Spyderco or Benchmade I give 'em a good wiggle to see, but try not to over-think it. On a higher end knife like a CRK Sebenza or a Hinderer XM-18 I have to admit, I give 'me hell to see if there's any play. I've had both Sebenzas and XMs that were absolutely ROCK SOLID no matter how much pressure I applied. AND... I've had both Sebenzas and XMs that did have a bit of play when pushed. Since I know that these knives can be made rock solid I expect more from them and I don't cut them any slack. I've even sent a knife back to CRK warranty because of blade play.
 
If you put enough force on a blade, you can probably flex the lock or scales.
I suggest that you try to "wiggle" the blade back and forth. You know how much force is in "wiggle" so there you go.
For lock rock, up and down, I use a bit more force. But I try to be "reasonable." It's all relative, I think. I mean, how much force are you going to use on a knife when you are actually using it?
 
I just wiggle the blade a bit, blade play tends to be quite obvious. I can live with a bit of play on knives that have seen a good amount of use, although it does bother me a bit when you can feel different parts moving while cutting.
 
I don't use much force, but I hold the tip of the blade when I wiggle it. If there is any play, the leverage will magnify it, and it will be detectable.
 
I don't really mind bladeplay on users. As long as it locks up solid and I can't close the blade with my hands I'm fine with it. Heck, my 440V Native has up and down and a bit of side-to-side but it's never failed me yet, and I've worked that sucker hard. My Captain also has some up and down but I can't get the lock to close without depressing it (mostly I call it a loser and funny shaped :D ) but it still has a place in my rotation. In a store I will 100% pick the knife without play over one with it, but I won't turn down a knife because of play as long as it's solid.

But in terms of how hard a try, I will wiggle the to detect side-to-side, push the spine to look for up and down, and do a light spine-whack into my palm (pretty low force on this one, usually just let the spine fall onto my palm to see if it will dis-engage).

So far I still have all my fingers so I'm happy.
 
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