Dexter Russell Green River Works Boning Knives

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May 11, 2013
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Just ordered 4 of the Dexter Russel / Green River Works Boning knives from the DR's Traditional Line. High Carbon Blades, supposedly C1095 with Rc 55-56.

Before I get these things in the mail I was wondering if anyone had input input/suggestions as to how to best set the edge up on these things. They will be primarily for boning white tailed deer, usually 5-6 a year and maybe a few wild pigs. I bought 1 each of all the DR/GR Boning Knives that DR has available simply because when we bone deer there are usually several of us working so pays to have a few knives around.

I'll be using an Edge Pro Apex to do the sharpening and was wondering what kind of bevel setup you folks think I should put on these things. Also at what point in the sharpening progression should I stop at? I have all of the EP stones and tapes and am working on getting a couple of strops and sprays for touch ups. Currently use Ceramic sticks for touch ups but wanna try my hand at some stropping. Not really looking at buying any better quality stones at this point. Can usually get results that are very satisfactory to me with the EP stones with the Edge Pro. I am looking to get some Shaptons for the EP later but not in the budget this close to Xmas.

I am not looking to put extremely polished edges on these things as they are working knives. Unless of course someone can recommend a good reason to put an polished edge on a boning knife. Then I might consider it. Also not really looking for an edge that lasts for months. I don't have a problem skinning and cutting up a deer and then breaking out the Edge Pro the next day to resharpen/touch up as needed. These knives are dedicated for this work so really won't be getting sharpened all that often. Cheap/task oriented knives.

Like I said I am looking for suggestions of Bevel setup, whether single bevel, double or triple and what angles would you use? Also why ,if you have the time to explain. Also, what stone or tape should I stop at? And any strop & Paste/Spray suggestions would help. I have been picking up a few different bottles of the Ken's CBN Strop Sprays and am starting to get into using that now.

Thanks for any feedback ya have to time to give out. I am just trying to not get carried away putting extremely polished edges on these knives if it is not really needed. To date every thing I own has highly polished edges and because I have done everything that way, I am not really sure where in the progression I should stop at to avoid doing more work than necessary to get a good working edge and just figured it worth asking.

http://knives.dexter1818.com/shop/traditional/boning-knives/2016-6.html
http://knives.dexter1818.com/shop/traditional/boning-knives/2315-6.html
http://knives.dexter1818.com/shop/traditional/boning-knives/2316-6.html
http://knives.dexter1818.com/shop/traditional/boning-knives/1012g-6.html


Jeff
Southern Maryland
 
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I have several russels they are 1095 and you wont need anything but a sharpening when they get dull leave the bevel as set from factory they are very good out of the box.
 
Run a secondary bevel @ 30 - 40 degrees inclusive. You only need to sharpen to 300 - 400 grit for the work you plan on doing. Speed of touch up - use a steel. The eru carbide sharpener has been suggested by others as a really fast way to touch up the edge.
 
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