Diameter of BM710 omega spring wire?

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Dec 15, 2003
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Okay, an omega spring broke on my 710HS. I broke one soon after I bought it about 5 years ago, and sent it to Benchmade, and waited about a month.

This time I'm going to replace it myself. The 710 is easy to disassemble, and I've already removed the broken spring.

I don't have a micrometer -- does anyone know the diameter of the piano wire spring? :confused:

Thanks!
 
I'm not sure about the 710 but my 950 rift was .024" I made some springs with MIG welding wire that came in that diameter as it was easier for me to locate than piano wire. I ended up making 2 springs that were as close to the same as possible because using just one, the stock spring was slightly stronger. This pushed the AXIS bar further forward on the one side so replacing both solved that.

They have been in there a couple months and working fine. I would save the old ones including the broken one in case you ever want to send it back to Benchmade so they can't tell you disassembled it.
 
I'm not sure about the 710 but my 950 rift was .024" I made some springs with MIG welding wire that came in that diameter as it was easier for me to locate than piano wire. I ended up making 2 springs that were as close to the same as possible because using just one, the stock spring was slightly stronger. This pushed the AXIS bar further forward on the one side so replacing both solved that.

They have been in there a couple months and working fine. I would save the old ones including the broken one in case you ever want to send it back to Benchmade so they can't tell you disassembled it.

Thanks very much for your help!

:thumbup:I've located a local music store that has guitar strings that might work. There's also a hobby store near me that stocks music wire. I figure one guitar string might be a lifetime supply. ;)
 
I've located a local music store that has guitar strings that might work. There's also a hobby store near me that stocks music wire. I figure one guitar string might be a lifetime supply. ;)
LOL! Reminds me of some years ago, after breaking/bending a couple decapping pins on my reloading dies, I bought like a 3' length of piano wire of the same diameter. Haven't broke a decapping pin since ...

... and BTW, if you'd like to make some really heavy-duty replacement omega springs for those Benchmades, I can help you out!
 
LOL! Reminds me of some years ago, after breaking/bending a couple decapping pins on my reloading dies, I bought like a 3' length of piano wire of the same diameter. Haven't broke a decapping pin since ...

That's always how it goes, doesn't it? :confused::)

... and BTW, if you'd like to make some really heavy-duty replacement omega springs for those Benchmades, I can help you out!

I'd love to hear about this, if you don't mind.
 
That's always how it goes, doesn't it? :confused::)
No kidding. My workshop and garage are full of this kind of stuff.

I'd love to hear about this, if you don't mind.
Sorry ... I was still kidding around, suggesting that you could try making an omega spring out of the stuff I use for decapping pins. Makes my thumb and index finger hurt just to think about it. :D
 
UPDATE: Yesterday evening I went to the music store and bought a .022" steel guitar spring. It's a little smaller than the .024" original. Later in the evening I fashioned and installed a home-made omega spring. It works, sort of. It was fairly easy to duplicate the shape using miniature needle nose pliers. BUT, the spring I made is not a strong as the original spring, so the homemade spring does not push the lock bar as far forward as the remaining original spring. I plan to go to the hobby store and get a bigger spring and try that out.

There's a big HOWEVER disclosure that goes with this. There's an instrument repairman at the music store. He took a look at the broken omega spring, and played with it a little. He then said, "this is strong spring. You can't make a replacement by just bending a guitar string into the same shape. This spring was heat treated AFTER IT WAS BENT INTO THE OMEGA SHAPE." I don't know for sure whether he knows his stuff, but it sounds plausible to me.

So, I might be wasting my time and setting myself up for lock failure. I'm going to make one more try, with larger music wire, and see how it works. I'll be extra careful with this 710 for a long while and give it a light spine whack test every so often.

I made the disclosure because I can't recommend others doing it after what the repairman said.
 
I doubt if you're headed for trouble, but proper springs are heat-treated after making into the final shape.
 
UPDATE: Yesterday evening I went to the music store and bought a .022" steel guitar spring. It's a little smaller than the .024" original. Later in the evening I fashioned and installed a home-made omega spring. It works, sort of. It was fairly easy to duplicate the shape using miniature needle nose pliers. BUT, the spring I made is not a strong as the original spring, so the homemade spring does not push the lock bar as far forward as the remaining original spring. I plan to go to the hobby store and get a bigger spring and try that out.

There's a big HOWEVER disclosure that goes with this. There's an instrument repairman at the music store. He took a look at the broken omega spring, and played with it a little. He then said, "this is strong spring. You can't make a replacement by just bending a guitar string into the same shape. This spring was heat treated AFTER IT WAS BENT INTO THE OMEGA SHAPE." I don't know for sure whether he knows his stuff, but it sounds plausible to me.

So, I might be wasting my time and setting myself up for lock failure. I'm going to make one more try, with larger music wire, and see how it works. I'll be extra careful with this 710 for a long while and give it a light spine whack test every so often.

I made the disclosure because I can't recommend others doing it after what the repairman said.

If you check out my post above you will see I mentioned the same problem. If you make 2 springs and replace both sides they will be the same spring tension and load the AXIS bar equally.
 
If you check out my post above you will see I mentioned the same problem. If you make 2 springs and replace both sides they will be the same spring tension and load the AXIS bar equally.

I hear you. I plan to replace both of them with a heavier gauge of music wire (.030").

Still, even with the "unbalenced" springs it's working fine and I've probably spine whacked it -- not too hard -- at least 20 times. I've tried other ways to induce failure (grabbing blade and pushing it in all dirrections) and it won't fail.
 
Update:

Today I went to the local hobby shop and bought some .025" music wire. Four 3' pieces cost $1.99. I think this represents a lifetime supply of omega springs.

So I fashioned 2 omega springs from this stuff and installed them. Success! The springs I made are a little stronger than the originals. The lockup is 100%solid with no play whatsoever in any direction.

I don't foresee any problems with these springs, but if anything goes wrong I'll update the thread right away.

The process of making and installing the springs took about 1/2 hour, and given the small amount of music wire used it cost less than a quarter.

For me that beats spending $6-7 to ship it to Benchmade and waiting a month to get it back. :thumbup:
 
HI guys, I know this is a really old thread, but has this work for anyone long-term. I have the Benchmade Volli and like many of you I love the Axis lock, save for the omega spring that bust way too easily. A spring went on my Volli after only a month. I got the guitar strings, but not the larger ones, just the one the same size as the original spring, it help up for a few days and then just stop holding any retention at all. The knife is not safe to use anymore. I am in Canada and not sending my knife that far away to get fixed.

Was using the thicker guitar string working over the long-term?

Thanks,
 
Music wire is not really guitar string... Also its relatively easy to heat treat, much easier than a knife blade.
 
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