Diamond films by Ken Schwartz

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Jan 9, 2014
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I was wondering if anyone has used these in the 1"x6" configuration for the Edge Pro? If so, how did they hold up? I'm mainly interested in the lower grits, and if they're actually usable and durable enough for reprofiling.

Was also wondering what others are using for reprofiling? I'm sick of the EP 120 stone.
 
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The atoma 140 diamond plate that Ken sells is a beast at reprofiling. I've reprofiled at least 50 knives, no obvious signs of wear and it hasn't slowed down.
 
Don't own an edge pro, but have used the 3M films, they would not be my first choice for heavy work. Once you get into the medium grit range, 15u and smaller, they make more sense. They will hold up for a while under moderate use, especially if a progression is used - if weight and portability are an issue then they begin to stand out over other options.
 
Do you generally use the Atoma dry? What stones did you follow the Atoma with, and did you have a problem getting those scratches out?
 
I buy the generic films sold in hobby shops and home centers. In Japan I can get a package of three letter-sized sheets for about $8 USD, and they come in grits that range from 150-15,000. If you are sharpening for 'use,' they are very, very effective. If you are sharpening for photomicrographs, you might want to use the 3M sheets. I cut them into smaller sections and wrap them around the EP stone extra fine stones. One cut piece will last me 3-4 knives, but the stuff is so cheap that it's not a problem. I tend to use the higher grits though, and do my re-profiling on a DMT coarse stone held in the EP arm.

Stitchawl
 
Do you generally use the Atoma dry? What stones did you follow the Atoma with, and did you have a problem getting those scratches out?

I use water with the atoma, to clear away swarf and to help the plate "track" smoothly. It seems to leave shallower scratches, but that could just be wishful thinking.
I follow the 140 with a 320/500/1000 shapton glass stone progression with good results. Depending on knife and steel I will work up through Shapton GS to 8k. No real problem getting the scratches out, but it takes a little time with the 320. I have read good things about following the atoma with a bamboo 150 to quickly convert diamond to water stone scratches, but haven't tried it.
 
uofaengr,
I've been using a 4" "Coarse" DME diamond plate that came with my KME for reprofiling. Just last night I was using the coarse plate wondering if I was the only person spending this much time on the task. Then I switched to a 1X6" piece of Klingspore 120 grit wet/dry paper taped to a 1/8" aluminum plate on the EP. It seemed that the 120 cut a little faster, and did leave a nicer finish. (No deep scratches) Very pleased with the results. And, the cost to performance ratio is about as good as it gets. (read cheap) I think that the films are best used for finishing in the higher grits. Next reprofile I do is going on my wet grinder for the major metal removal, then finish on the paper wheels or the EP depending on the level of finish desired.
 
The progression I'm kinda sorta eyeing right now is:
Atoma 140
Nubatama 150
Shapton Pro 1000 or 1500
Shapton Pro 5k

I already finish with 1u and 0.5u CBN on nano coming off the EP 3k grit tapes which are "supposedly" equal to 3u. The Shapton 5k is equal to 3u so I'd try going straight from this to 1u CBN. If poor results, might throw the Shapton Pro 8k in there. When I sharpen for folks, I offer 2 finishes. One equal to EP 400 and one to 0.5u CBN. I figure the Shapton 1k or 1.5k can give a quick and dirty, good working edge that is better and faster than the EP 400. At this point not sure if the Nubatama 150 to Shapton Pro 1k is too big a jump.
 
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I posted on this subject a while back. I wouldn't recommend doing the tapes, as I feel it is more cost effective to get Atoma or DMT plates. The lower grits work alright, though, I can see them starting to wear through to the tape with only a few uses.

There are enough good options out there that I don't think it makes sense to pick them up.
 
The progression I'm kinda sorta eyeing right now is:
Atoma 140
Nubatama 150
Shapton Pro 1000 or 1500
Shapton Pro 5k

I already finish with 1u and 0.5u CBN on nano coming off the EP 3k grit tapes which are "supposedly" equal to 3u. The Shapton 5k is equal to 3u so I'd try going straight from this to 1u CBN. If poor results, might throw the Shapton Pro 8k in there. When I sharpen for folks, I offer 2 finishes. One equal to EP 400 and one to 0.5u CBN. I figure the Shapton 1k or 1.5k can give a quick and dirty, good working edge that is better and faster than the EP 400. At this point not sure if the Nubatama 150 to Shapton Pro 1k is too big a jump.

Having no experience with these stones, can anyone who has used them before advise if the progression I have lined out is too big of a jump to effectively remove scratches from the previous grit?
 
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