Diamond or arkansas or synth stones?

F

fitsbain

Joined
Feb 15, 2008
Messages
8
I'm looking to get a new set of sharpening stones.

I have learner to sharpen on good old arkansas stones with oil.

I can get any edge shaving sharp. And they will sit on my fingernail at better that 60 degrees without sliding off.

But it is time for new stones. I don't really want a "system" like the sharpmaker.

So what do you think? Diamond stones, new arkansas's, or synthetis man made "stones"???

Thanks for your time.
 
I use the Spyderco bench "stones", and I REALLY like those. They are made out of the same (ceramic?) material as the Sharpmaker is. They come in a nice plastic case, and don't require oil to use.
 
I second the Spydercos. I have a set and I LOVE them. You can't beat 'em for smoothness and consistancy. I do my ''roughing" with a DMT course stone, and finish up with a med., and fine Spyderco. The results are amazing. I would recomend the Spydercos to anyone.
 
Yup, diamond coarse, Spyderco fine !! Most ceramic stones are aluminum oxide.You can use water as alube for both.
 
I switched from Arkansas stones to diamond hones twenty years ago and never looked back. When I really want to get scary with an edge, I finish on an old Case Moonstone, but generally I stop at DMT Extra-fine.
 
I have Arkansa stones in corse, medium and fine. I also have ceramic sticks and a diamond stone. I need a bigger diamond stone and those Spyderco stones. You can't go wrong with all of them.
 
I probably have over 50 stones.I have stones from 3X10" diamond plates ,to Arkansas, to Japanese water stones. For an incredible edge, it is hard to beat water stones. They take some learning on how to use them, but will get a blade beyond sharp. The synthetic water stones are just as good as the natural stones for all but shiage togi, which most of us will never do.
Stacy
 
Last edited:
Shiage togi (final polishing) is done after shitaji togi (foundation polishing) in the shaping and finishing of traditional Japanese blades. The foundation work can be done with synthetic stones, but most polishers will only use natural stones to do the final polishing work. A katana with a complex hamon can cost well over $100 per inch to have it polished by a master polisher.

When polishing other styles of blades the rules change and whatever works is usually acceptable.Most user blades are finished with the final edge in mind and not the blade surface.Thus ,using a diamond stone on a hunting knife will make the edge sharp fast, and a final stropping with green oxide on leather will make it hair popping. This is all that it needs. The Traditional Japanese blade is a complete object, with all the surfaces having separate polishing techniques to yield a total effect. Lately, many users of Japanese blades are doing what is referred to as a "Hybrid Polish", which blends the surfaces more ,but takes less time. Here is a brief article:
http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/hybridpolish.htm
The purists and traditionalists will look at a hybrid polish the same way a good knifemaker looks at a Chinese import knife, but a blade ,properly done with a hybrid polish,will cut nearly as well as one with a $3000 polish ( and is much easier to maintain).
Stacy
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top