Diamond or Waterstone?

M

MTHall53

Joined
Nov 30, 2009
Messages
214
I am still wrestling with this issue. I bought a new SharpMaker a while back but didnt get the results I really wanted - in fact I kept getting gouges out of the sticks.
Now, the big question: For a ONE type stone does it all from small folders to big choppers, which is a better bet if you want a really sharp standard V type edge? 8-10 inch Diamond stone dual grit (200/800) or a combo water stone?
Planning to finish off with a leather strop (after I figure out how to use one).
 
I'm wondering what you're doing to gouge the ceramic sticks?

Anyway, going back to your question, what kind of steels do you have? Any exotics like S90V or ZDP-189, etc?
 
No exotics. 440, 1095, high carbon, however, I am serious considering getting a ZT 0200 maybe S30V at some point. Don't know what Sandvic is but maybe that too.
I hve NO clue what I did to my Spyderco Sharpmaker, but even before pits, nicks, I didn't think my blades were any sharper than when I did freehand with a set of Arkansas stones.
 
I bought a new SharpMaker and have never taken it out of the box.
Thinking of selling or trading it for either 8" Diamond Stones or about same size large Water Stone. Never tried water stone before, but with Diamond Stone I previously used it seemed to "load" quickly. Maybe that's not the right expression, but needed to frequently be cleaned.
 
MTHall53 said:
I am still wrestling with this issue. I bought a new SharpMaker a while back but didnt get the results I really wanted - in fact I kept getting gouges out of the sticks.
Now, the big question: For a ONE type stone does it all from small folders to big choppers, which is a better bet if you want a really sharp standard V type edge? 8-10 inch Diamond stone dual grit (200/800) or a combo water stone?
Planning to finish off with a leather strop (after I figure out how to use one).
Click to expand...

This is literally asking Apples or Oranges.
Pros of Water stones that use slurries:
Come in higher grits.
Generally cut very well.
You can use the slurry of a high grit stone to literally polish the blade just put some slurry on your finger rub the blade (NOT THE EDGE).
Cons:
Take more maintenance that a diamond stone (flattening needing to be SOAKED before use)
They generally aren't as compact as diamonds (for example your aren't going to find a dia fold in a water stone).
Usually cost more than diamonds for the good ones.

Pros of Diamonds:
Some cut well.
Generally cost less.
Doesn't need flattening.
Are thinner, and smaller.
Can be used wet or dry.
Work best on super steels or new steels.

Cons of Diamonds:
They can be pulled out of their base.
Many cheap imitations that work like crap.
 
Thanks very much. Excellent info. Now I see what you mean about Apples and Oranges. Didn't realize that was this kind of question.
In that case, I am leaning towards water stones. Next thing now is to find out what brands are best bang for buck, and what super stones mean compared to regular waterstones.
 
Diamond stones and be sure they are DMT. I like water stones too but they are messy to use and take much longer, FOR ME that is.
 
MTHall53 said:
DMT is considered one of the best for Diamond?
Click to expand...

Widely, yes. They are considered the best for diamond STONES. Diamond compound is a whole different ballpark. DMT is uses a different kind of diamonds that lost longer, and cut faster.
 
I prefer fused abrasive oilstones like the Norton Crystalon and fine India stones. The former is Carborundum (Silicon carbide), and the latter is Corundum (Aluminum oxide). IMO both the water stones and the diamond "stones" wear much faster. The water stones scoop out sooner than the oil stones. The diamond sharpeners lose their efficiency when the relatively soft steel of the blade pulls the diamond dust out of the Nickel with which it was codeposited on the sharpening plate. I have a whole box full of worn out diamond sharpeners.
 
tiguy7 said:
I prefer fused abrasive oilstones like the Norton Crystalon and fine India stones. The former is Carborundum (Silicon carbide), and the latter is Corundum (Aluminum oxide). IMO both the water stones and the diamond "stones" wear much faster. The water stones scoop out sooner than the oil stones. The diamond sharpeners lose their efficiency when the relatively soft steel of the blade pulls the diamond dust out of the Nickel with which it was codeposited on the sharpening plate. I have a whole box full of worn out diamond sharpeners.
Click to expand...

Then you are either using crap diamond stones, or you need to lighten up on the pressure.
Both the water stones you recommend are usually EXTREMELY coarse.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top