Diamond plate slurry

HeavyHanded

HeavyHanded

Joined
Jun 4, 2010
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Quick video showing how I've been using my diamond plates for a while now.

For me it makes using them a much nicer experience and seems to help performance on lower RC steels where they typically are overkill. Maybe extends life of the plate even if you lean on it a little - haven't been using it long enough to know for sure.

The mud works well as a mild improvised strop compound when used on paper.

 
Interesting , I never would have thought something like that with the diamond stones
Thanks for posting
 
HeavyHanded said:
Quick video showing how I've been using my diamond plates for a while now.

For me it makes using them a much nicer experience and seems to help performance on lower RC steels where they typically are overkill. Maybe extends life of the plate even if you lean on it a little - haven't been using it long enough to know for sure.

The mud works well as a mild improvised strop compound when used on paper.

Click to expand...
What is the brown piece and what’s is white dust?
Sorry my English is not so good. :(
 
^Your english is pretty darn good, and a LOT better than my Portugese. :-)

I thought he said the wood was red oak to create the slurry, and the powder is baking soda which he said would avoid rusting on carbon steels, and avoid tarnishing on the plate surface.

HeavyHanded HeavyHanded : How do you see this comparing to using straight mineral oil?

I've been taking Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges tip and using about 3 drops light norton oil even on my diamond stones. It does work, I like it better than using them dry. But I notice especially on my coarse diamonds with the continuous surface, I still get a lot of "catching." I don't have this problem so much on my interrupted diamond plates (so i guess the dmt marketing there is not ENTIRELY hype, as I've seen suggested a couple times). I suppose I could just keep adding oil more frequently or I could go to a slurry like yours, on the continuous plates. Just curious if you see a big difference.
 
maximus83 said:
^Your english is pretty darn good, and a LOT better than my Portugese. :)

I thought he said the wood was red oak to create the slurry, and the powder is baking soda which he said would avoid rusting on carbon steels, and avoid tarnishing on the plate surface.

HeavyHanded HeavyHanded : How do you see this comparing to using straight mineral oil?

I've been taking Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges tip and using about 3 drops light norton oil even on my diamond stones. It does work, I like it better than using them dry. But I notice especially on my coarse diamonds with the continuous surface, I still get a lot of "catching." I don't have this problem so much on my interrupted diamond plates (so i guess the dmt marketing there is not ENTIRELY hype, as I've seen suggested a couple times). I suppose I could just keep adding oil more frequently or I could go to a slurry like yours, on the continuous plates. Just curious if you see a big difference.
Click to expand...

I think my biggest issue with the mineral oil on these is I have to wash it all off when done. If I just wipe it off it seems to accumulate on the surface and impedes sharpening, after many cycles. At this stage I believe it also doesn't prevent swarf from loading on the stone as well either.

Don't get me wrong, it works better than plain water.

Another issue I have is not swapping between water and oil on my stone holder. I'd hate to contaminate one of my better waterstones with oil, so normally I put another piece of wood on the holder. I also have to swap out the rag I use to wipe blades off. Not a big deal but when I combine that with the improved feedback it makes sense for how I use them.
 
Actually I use baby oil in my diamond stones. The wood is unknown piece I salvaged. Not the best combination but I can detect the difference between slurry or no slurry. It helps for refining D2 (BM-HK14715).
 
maximus83 said:
(...) I've been taking Obsessed with Edges Obsessed with Edges tip and using about 3 drops light norton oil even on my diamond stones. It does work, I like it better than using them dry. But I notice especially on my coarse diamonds with the continuous surface, I still get a lot of "catching." I don't have this problem so much on my interrupted diamond plates (so i guess the dmt marketing there is not ENTIRELY hype, as I've seen suggested a couple times). I suppose I could just keep adding oil more frequently (...)
Click to expand...

For me, the 'catching' aspect is more about getting used to the feel of the hone. On coarser diamond hones, it's always going to be there, to some extent. If the uneasiness about it isn't overcome, it won't matter much what's used to wet the hone. Anything that might be used to significantly dampen that roughness will likely also diminish the cutting effectiveness of the hone, if one goes to great length to make that feel go away entirely. If you're not feeling it, you're likely just skating over the top of it, and therefore it's not cutting to it's rated grit anymore.

To get over it myself, I had to convince myself to be a little more assertive with each sharpening pass on a coarse/XC diamond hone, using enough controlled pressure to essentially push through those little catchy spots, keeping the same rhythm and trusting in the hone to work as it should (and it does). It can help to take a beater knife, and just rhythmically scrub new bevels into it, focusing on a steady tempo and moderate pressure. Just let the hone do what it will, and keep the rhythm smooth, steady and comfortable. Keep at it, until you become more comfortable and less distracted by the 'catchiness' of the coarse grit.

Don't be afraid to add a little more oil either. Some of the catching aspect can be made a little less-so, if the hone is kept a bit more wet. Oiling too lightly, if it gets mixed up with heavy swarf quickly, can make the surface a little more sticky or gummy. So keep enough oil on the surface to keep the swarf loose and free-flowing, and therefore smoother in feedback. Experiment with different weights (viscosities) of mineral oil, if you want to. The heavier, laxative-grade stuff can be more of a 'shock-absorber', in effect, easing a little more of that rough feel.


David
 
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